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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

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  • D
    David K.K. Hansen
    Joined: 12 Nov 2014

    @Giles:

    @BULLITT:

    @Giles in your personal experience, what top 3 fabrics/weights have been the most durable in Iron Heart jeans?  Not thinking about fades, but how resilient the jean has been to wear and tear.

    Hmmmm, I tend to wear a pair of jeans for about a year more or less non-stop.  Then I move on to the next great thing…

    If I had to make a stab at this, I'd go.

    25oz
    14oz
    19oz

    Interesting!  Haven't tried 25oz yet, might have to give it a go as my next pair of jeans!

    last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 13:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • N
      neph93
      見習いボス
      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

      I would support 25oz as most resilient. I have a pair of 666-XHS that are five years old and have many hundred wear days. The crotch has been repaired twice, but that is a result of my tendency towards blow out in that area, especially with pairs that have a trim top block. Otherwise they are full of life, still thick and tough, and that is after being exposed to some very hard wear.

      The UHR also takes a kicking, not helpful I know, but it is very, very tough.

      “Some of those that work forces
      Are the same that burn crosses”

      • Virginia Woolf
      last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 13:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • D
        David K.K. Hansen
        Joined: 12 Nov 2014

        I also tend to have to repair the crotch area several times over the lifespan of my jeans.  At first I thought it was due to bicycle riding, but this year I haven't ridden at all and the crotch still blows out.  So I guess it's just how I wear my jeans.

        I'm going to give the 25oz a try, this much I know!  Would be a nice bonus if they're less often in need of repairs, time will tell.

        last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 14:21 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • G
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

          If you are prone to crotch blow-outs, and it is a matter of physique more than anything, then the thicker the denim, the more likely a crotch blow-out becomes.

          I wear my jeans hard and I have never had a crotch go, I know people who can do that in a month.

          Just the way you're made.

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • G
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

            @Jett129 To some degree, you've answered your own question 🙂

            But let's take the quality as given, what makes Iron Heart what it is, is that Haraki is relatively open to ideas, is mildly western aware, is a humble modest man and easy-ish to work with.

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:31 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • ?
              A Former User
              Joined:

              I would be intrigued to see Haraki’s take on a work pant with a diamond crotch gusset.

              And @Giles, can the 705/714 UHS serge fabric be made again? Or is it to heavy to attempt another run? Many years ago, I had to make a terrible, unthinkable choice between one of the last UHR’s or one of the last Black 714’s. I chose the UHR and have always felt longing for “what could have been”…

              last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • D
                David K.K. Hansen
                Joined: 12 Nov 2014

                @Giles:

                If you are prone to crotch blow-outs, and it is a matter of physique more than anything, then the thicker the denim, the more likely a crotch blow-out becomes.

                I wear my jeans hard and I have never had a crotch go, I know people who can do that in a month.

                Just the way you're made.

                Yup, I figured as much at it's my body type that causes this, but do you think the lighter weights have a lesser chance for this happening?  Why do you reckon this is?

                In the end I'll just accept it as unavoidable and go with the denim I like most.  But curious as to why it would happen more frequently with the heavier stuff.

                last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:47 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • G
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                  Crotch blow-outs are caused mainly by the friction of the upper thighs rubbing together, the thicker the denim, the greater the friction….

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                  last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • G
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                    @adam313:

                    Or is it to heavy to attempt another run?

                    Not necessarily, but not at the top of the list of priorities I'm afraid.  I do agree, it was an amazing fabric….

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
                      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                      @Giles:

                      Crotch blow-outs are caused mainly by the friction of the upper thighs rubbing together, the thiccer the thighs, the greater the friction….

                      Fixed that so it applies to me…

                      “Some of those that work forces
                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                      • Virginia Woolf
                      last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • D
                        David K.K. Hansen
                        Joined: 12 Nov 2014

                        Haha Neph, in the same boat here!

                        last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 16:29 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • D
                          Deuce
                          Joined: 13 Apr 2020

                          Hey @Giles - I was browsing Haraki's blog and any idea what denim cut the first photo here is?  Thanks!

                          http://shin3155.blog54.fc2.com/blog-entry-6681.html

                          last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 06:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • N
                            neph93
                            見習いボス
                            Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                            @Deuce they look a lot like 555's to me.

                            “Some of those that work forces
                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                            • Virginia Woolf
                            last edited by 1 Apr 2021, 07:40 4 Jan 2021, 07:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • K
                              Kasi
                              見習いボス
                              Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                              It friend of mine from Australia
                              He was inspired by me having a pair 555 25oz.

                              His jeans 555

                              The world's insane
                              While you drink champagne
                              And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                              last edited by 1 Apr 2021, 08:03 4 Jan 2021, 07:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • N
                                neph93
                                見習いボス
                                Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                ^Well done @Kasi

                                “Some of those that work forces
                                Are the same that burn crosses”

                                • Virginia Woolf
                                last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 07:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • K
                                  Kasi
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                                  You welcome. Reuben

                                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                  The world's insane
                                  While you drink champagne
                                  And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                                  last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 10:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • D
                                    Deuce
                                    Joined: 13 Apr 2020

                                    @neph93 and @kasi - you guys are good!

                                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                    last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 15:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • N
                                      neph93
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                      @Deuce:

                                      @neph93 and @kasi - you guys are good!

                                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                      Years of practice [emoji6]

                                      “Some of those that work forces
                                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                                      • Virginia Woolf
                                      last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 17:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Z
                                        zeuloa
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined: 11 Dec 2020

                                        @Giles:

                                        @BULLITT:

                                        @Giles in your personal experience, what top 3 fabrics/weights have been the most durable in Iron Heart jeans?  Not thinking about fades, but how resilient the jean has been to wear and tear.

                                        Hmmmm, I tend to wear a pair of jeans for about a year more or less non-stop.  Then I move on to the next great thing…

                                        If I had to make a stab at this, I'd go.

                                        25oz
                                        14oz
                                        19oz

                                        Interesting… The 14oz and 19oz stronger than the 21oz due to the tighter weave?

                                        last edited by 5 Jan 2021, 15:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • G
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                          Yep

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 5 Jan 2021, 15:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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