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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

    The Resource Centre
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    • David K.K. HansenD
      David K.K. Hansen
      Joined:

      I also tend to have to repair the crotch area several times over the lifespan of my jeans.  At first I thought it was due to bicycle riding, but this year I haven't ridden at all and the crotch still blows out.  So I guess it's just how I wear my jeans.

      I'm going to give the 25oz a try, this much I know!  Would be a nice bonus if they're less often in need of repairs, time will tell.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • GilesG
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined:

        If you are prone to crotch blow-outs, and it is a matter of physique more than anything, then the thicker the denim, the more likely a crotch blow-out becomes.

        I wear my jeans hard and I have never had a crotch go, I know people who can do that in a month.

        Just the way you're made.

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          @Jett129 To some degree, you've answered your own question 🙂

          But let's take the quality as given, what makes Iron Heart what it is, is that Haraki is relatively open to ideas, is mildly western aware, is a humble modest man and easy-ish to work with.

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • ?
            A Former User
            Joined:

            I would be intrigued to see Haraki’s take on a work pant with a diamond crotch gusset.

            And @Giles, can the 705/714 UHS serge fabric be made again? Or is it to heavy to attempt another run? Many years ago, I had to make a terrible, unthinkable choice between one of the last UHR’s or one of the last Black 714’s. I chose the UHR and have always felt longing for “what could have been”…

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • David K.K. HansenD
              David K.K. Hansen
              Joined:

              @Giles:

              If you are prone to crotch blow-outs, and it is a matter of physique more than anything, then the thicker the denim, the more likely a crotch blow-out becomes.

              I wear my jeans hard and I have never had a crotch go, I know people who can do that in a month.

              Just the way you're made.

              Yup, I figured as much at it's my body type that causes this, but do you think the lighter weights have a lesser chance for this happening?  Why do you reckon this is?

              In the end I'll just accept it as unavoidable and go with the denim I like most.  But curious as to why it would happen more frequently with the heavier stuff.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                Crotch blow-outs are caused mainly by the friction of the upper thighs rubbing together, the thicker the denim, the greater the friction….

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • GilesG
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined:

                  @adam313:

                  Or is it to heavy to attempt another run?

                  Not necessarily, but not at the top of the list of priorities I'm afraid.  I do agree, it was an amazing fabric….

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • neph93N
                    neph93
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    @Giles:

                    Crotch blow-outs are caused mainly by the friction of the upper thighs rubbing together, the thiccer the thighs, the greater the friction….

                    Fixed that so it applies to me…

                    “Some of those that work forces
                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                    • Virginia Woolf
                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • David K.K. HansenD
                      David K.K. Hansen
                      Joined:

                      Haha Neph, in the same boat here!

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • DeuceD
                        Deuce
                        Joined:

                        Hey @Giles - I was browsing Haraki's blog and any idea what denim cut the first photo here is?  Thanks!

                        http://shin3155.blog54.fc2.com/blog-entry-6681.html

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • neph93N
                          neph93
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          @Deuce they look a lot like 555's to me.

                          “Some of those that work forces
                          Are the same that burn crosses”

                          • Virginia Woolf
                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • KasiK
                            Kasi
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            It friend of mine from Australia
                            He was inspired by me having a pair 555 25oz.

                            His jeans 555

                            The world's insane
                            While you drink champagne
                            And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • neph93N
                              neph93
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              ^Well done @Kasi

                              “Some of those that work forces
                              Are the same that burn crosses”

                              • Virginia Woolf
                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • KasiK
                                Kasi
                                見習いボス
                                Joined:

                                You welcome. Reuben

                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                The world's insane
                                While you drink champagne
                                And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • DeuceD
                                  Deuce
                                  Joined:

                                  @neph93 and @kasi - you guys are good!

                                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • neph93N
                                    neph93
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    @Deuce:

                                    @neph93 and @kasi - you guys are good!

                                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                    Years of practice [emoji6]

                                    “Some of those that work forces
                                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                                    • Virginia Woolf
                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • Z
                                      zeuloa
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      @Giles:

                                      @BULLITT:

                                      @Giles in your personal experience, what top 3 fabrics/weights have been the most durable in Iron Heart jeans?  Not thinking about fades, but how resilient the jean has been to wear and tear.

                                      Hmmmm, I tend to wear a pair of jeans for about a year more or less non-stop.  Then I move on to the next great thing…

                                      If I had to make a stab at this, I'd go.

                                      25oz
                                      14oz
                                      19oz

                                      Interesting… The 14oz and 19oz stronger than the 21oz due to the tighter weave?

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • GilesG
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined:

                                        Yep

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • goosehdG
                                          goosehd
                                          Mod Squad
                                          Joined:

                                          G,

                                          What has been the most exciting sample or product that you’ve seen from H?  For example, I love everything I have purchased from you guys, but my hand’s down favourites are the Kersey’s from the last couple of years.

                                          Do you have anything that stands out?

                                          "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • GilesG
                                            Giles
                                            IHUK Crew
                                            Joined:

                                            When I was viewing the first sample of the IHJ-35 - Black Cowhide “One Star” Jacket in Tokyo, which as per norm was my size (well, actually Haraki's but luckily I happen to fit the same size tops as him), I asked him how many Yen I needed to give him there and then to take it home with me.

                                            I've never done that before or since.

                                            There is actually very little that Haraki shows me that I am not excited about.  I tend to expect most stuff to be amazing, with the occasional "you can release that in Japan if you like, but I won't be buying any" piece  🙂

                                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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