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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Live Reveal - Thursday 12th of June at 1700BST

Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

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  • G
    Giles
    IHUK Crew
    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

    If you are prone to crotch blow-outs, and it is a matter of physique more than anything, then the thicker the denim, the more likely a crotch blow-out becomes.

    I wear my jeans hard and I have never had a crotch go, I know people who can do that in a month.

    Just the way you're made.

    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

    last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • G
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

      @Jett129 To some degree, you've answered your own question 🙂

      But let's take the quality as given, what makes Iron Heart what it is, is that Haraki is relatively open to ideas, is mildly western aware, is a humble modest man and easy-ish to work with.

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:31 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • ?
        A Former User
        Joined:

        I would be intrigued to see Haraki’s take on a work pant with a diamond crotch gusset.

        And @Giles, can the 705/714 UHS serge fabric be made again? Or is it to heavy to attempt another run? Many years ago, I had to make a terrible, unthinkable choice between one of the last UHR’s or one of the last Black 714’s. I chose the UHR and have always felt longing for “what could have been”…

        last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • D
          David K.K. Hansen
          Joined: 12 Nov 2014

          @Giles:

          If you are prone to crotch blow-outs, and it is a matter of physique more than anything, then the thicker the denim, the more likely a crotch blow-out becomes.

          I wear my jeans hard and I have never had a crotch go, I know people who can do that in a month.

          Just the way you're made.

          Yup, I figured as much at it's my body type that causes this, but do you think the lighter weights have a lesser chance for this happening?  Why do you reckon this is?

          In the end I'll just accept it as unavoidable and go with the denim I like most.  But curious as to why it would happen more frequently with the heavier stuff.

          last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:47 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • G
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

            Crotch blow-outs are caused mainly by the friction of the upper thighs rubbing together, the thicker the denim, the greater the friction….

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • G
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

              @adam313:

              Or is it to heavy to attempt another run?

              Not necessarily, but not at the top of the list of priorities I'm afraid.  I do agree, it was an amazing fabric….

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • N
                neph93
                見習いボス
                Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                @Giles:

                Crotch blow-outs are caused mainly by the friction of the upper thighs rubbing together, the thiccer the thighs, the greater the friction….

                Fixed that so it applies to me…

                “Some of those that work forces
                Are the same that burn crosses”

                • Virginia Woolf
                last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • D
                  David K.K. Hansen
                  Joined: 12 Nov 2014

                  Haha Neph, in the same boat here!

                  last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 16:29 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • D
                    Deuce
                    Joined: 13 Apr 2020

                    Hey @Giles - I was browsing Haraki's blog and any idea what denim cut the first photo here is?  Thanks!

                    http://shin3155.blog54.fc2.com/blog-entry-6681.html

                    last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 06:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
                      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                      @Deuce they look a lot like 555's to me.

                      “Some of those that work forces
                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                      • Virginia Woolf
                      last edited by 1 Apr 2021, 07:40 4 Jan 2021, 07:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • K
                        Kasi
                        見習いボス
                        Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                        It friend of mine from Australia
                        He was inspired by me having a pair 555 25oz.

                        His jeans 555

                        The world's insane
                        While you drink champagne
                        And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                        last edited by 1 Apr 2021, 08:03 4 Jan 2021, 07:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • N
                          neph93
                          見習いボス
                          Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                          ^Well done @Kasi

                          “Some of those that work forces
                          Are the same that burn crosses”

                          • Virginia Woolf
                          last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 07:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • K
                            Kasi
                            見習いボス
                            Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                            You welcome. Reuben

                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                            The world's insane
                            While you drink champagne
                            And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                            last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 10:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • D
                              Deuce
                              Joined: 13 Apr 2020

                              @neph93 and @kasi - you guys are good!

                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                              last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 15:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • N
                                neph93
                                見習いボス
                                Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                @Deuce:

                                @neph93 and @kasi - you guys are good!

                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                Years of practice [emoji6]

                                “Some of those that work forces
                                Are the same that burn crosses”

                                • Virginia Woolf
                                last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 17:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • Z
                                  zeuloa
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined: 11 Dec 2020

                                  @Giles:

                                  @BULLITT:

                                  @Giles in your personal experience, what top 3 fabrics/weights have been the most durable in Iron Heart jeans?  Not thinking about fades, but how resilient the jean has been to wear and tear.

                                  Hmmmm, I tend to wear a pair of jeans for about a year more or less non-stop.  Then I move on to the next great thing…

                                  If I had to make a stab at this, I'd go.

                                  25oz
                                  14oz
                                  19oz

                                  Interesting… The 14oz and 19oz stronger than the 21oz due to the tighter weave?

                                  last edited by 5 Jan 2021, 15:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                    Yep

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 5 Jan 2021, 15:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • G
                                      goosehd
                                      Mod Squad
                                      Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                                      G,

                                      What has been the most exciting sample or product that you’ve seen from H?  For example, I love everything I have purchased from you guys, but my hand’s down favourites are the Kersey’s from the last couple of years.

                                      Do you have anything that stands out?

                                      "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                      last edited by 12 Jan 2021, 14:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • G
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                        When I was viewing the first sample of the IHJ-35 - Black Cowhide “One Star” Jacket in Tokyo, which as per norm was my size (well, actually Haraki's but luckily I happen to fit the same size tops as him), I asked him how many Yen I needed to give him there and then to take it home with me.

                                        I've never done that before or since.

                                        There is actually very little that Haraki shows me that I am not excited about.  I tend to expect most stuff to be amazing, with the occasional "you can release that in Japan if you like, but I won't be buying any" piece  🙂

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                        last edited by 1 Dec 2021, 14:18 12 Jan 2021, 14:13 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • G
                                          goosehd
                                          Mod Squad
                                          Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                                          Thanks G!

                                          "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                          last edited by 12 Jan 2021, 14:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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