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Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

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  • ?
    A Former User
    Joined:

    I would be intrigued to see Haraki’s take on a work pant with a diamond crotch gusset.

    And @Giles, can the 705/714 UHS serge fabric be made again? Or is it to heavy to attempt another run? Many years ago, I had to make a terrible, unthinkable choice between one of the last UHR’s or one of the last Black 714’s. I chose the UHR and have always felt longing for “what could have been”…

    last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • D
      David K.K. Hansen
      Joined: 12 Nov 2014

      @Giles:

      If you are prone to crotch blow-outs, and it is a matter of physique more than anything, then the thicker the denim, the more likely a crotch blow-out becomes.

      I wear my jeans hard and I have never had a crotch go, I know people who can do that in a month.

      Just the way you're made.

      Yup, I figured as much at it's my body type that causes this, but do you think the lighter weights have a lesser chance for this happening?  Why do you reckon this is?

      In the end I'll just accept it as unavoidable and go with the denim I like most.  But curious as to why it would happen more frequently with the heavier stuff.

      last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:47 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • G
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

        Crotch blow-outs are caused mainly by the friction of the upper thighs rubbing together, the thicker the denim, the greater the friction….

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • G
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

          @adam313:

          Or is it to heavy to attempt another run?

          Not necessarily, but not at the top of the list of priorities I'm afraid.  I do agree, it was an amazing fabric….

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • N
            neph93
            見習いボス
            Joined: 18 Aug 2014

            @Giles:

            Crotch blow-outs are caused mainly by the friction of the upper thighs rubbing together, the thiccer the thighs, the greater the friction….

            Fixed that so it applies to me…

            “Some of those that work forces
            Are the same that burn crosses”

            • Virginia Woolf
            last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 15:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • D
              David K.K. Hansen
              Joined: 12 Nov 2014

              Haha Neph, in the same boat here!

              last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 16:29 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • D
                Deuce
                Joined: 13 Apr 2020

                Hey @Giles - I was browsing Haraki's blog and any idea what denim cut the first photo here is?  Thanks!

                http://shin3155.blog54.fc2.com/blog-entry-6681.html

                last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 06:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                  @Deuce they look a lot like 555's to me.

                  “Some of those that work forces
                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                  • Virginia Woolf
                  last edited by 1 Apr 2021, 07:40 4 Jan 2021, 07:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • K
                    Kasi
                    見習いボス
                    Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                    It friend of mine from Australia
                    He was inspired by me having a pair 555 25oz.

                    His jeans 555

                    The world's insane
                    While you drink champagne
                    And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                    last edited by 1 Apr 2021, 08:03 4 Jan 2021, 07:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
                      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                      ^Well done @Kasi

                      “Some of those that work forces
                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                      • Virginia Woolf
                      last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 07:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • K
                        Kasi
                        見習いボス
                        Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                        You welcome. Reuben

                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                        The world's insane
                        While you drink champagne
                        And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                        last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 10:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • D
                          Deuce
                          Joined: 13 Apr 2020

                          @neph93 and @kasi - you guys are good!

                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                          last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 15:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • N
                            neph93
                            見習いボス
                            Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                            @Deuce:

                            @neph93 and @kasi - you guys are good!

                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                            Years of practice [emoji6]

                            “Some of those that work forces
                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                            • Virginia Woolf
                            last edited by 4 Jan 2021, 17:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • Z
                              zeuloa
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined: 11 Dec 2020

                              @Giles:

                              @BULLITT:

                              @Giles in your personal experience, what top 3 fabrics/weights have been the most durable in Iron Heart jeans?  Not thinking about fades, but how resilient the jean has been to wear and tear.

                              Hmmmm, I tend to wear a pair of jeans for about a year more or less non-stop.  Then I move on to the next great thing…

                              If I had to make a stab at this, I'd go.

                              25oz
                              14oz
                              19oz

                              Interesting… The 14oz and 19oz stronger than the 21oz due to the tighter weave?

                              last edited by 5 Jan 2021, 15:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • G
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                Yep

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 5 Jan 2021, 15:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • G
                                  goosehd
                                  Mod Squad
                                  Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                                  G,

                                  What has been the most exciting sample or product that you’ve seen from H?  For example, I love everything I have purchased from you guys, but my hand’s down favourites are the Kersey’s from the last couple of years.

                                  Do you have anything that stands out?

                                  "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                  last edited by 12 Jan 2021, 14:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                    When I was viewing the first sample of the IHJ-35 - Black Cowhide “One Star” Jacket in Tokyo, which as per norm was my size (well, actually Haraki's but luckily I happen to fit the same size tops as him), I asked him how many Yen I needed to give him there and then to take it home with me.

                                    I've never done that before or since.

                                    There is actually very little that Haraki shows me that I am not excited about.  I tend to expect most stuff to be amazing, with the occasional "you can release that in Japan if you like, but I won't be buying any" piece  🙂

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Dec 2021, 14:18 12 Jan 2021, 14:13 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • G
                                      goosehd
                                      Mod Squad
                                      Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                                      Thanks G!

                                      "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                      last edited by 12 Jan 2021, 14:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • J
                                        jordanscollected
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined: 13 Nov 2018

                                        Giles- After the acquisition of my new Indigo N1 deck vest, i got curious. Why did the Indigo version cause such a premium if the Wabash or other indigo dyed items retail in line with other shirts?

                                        world tours:
                                        888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                        Mad Red x2
                                        Wabidashery

                                        last edited by 12 Jan 2021, 16:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • G
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                          Just a guess.

                                          We did a relatively small run of the indigo whipcord.

                                          Also, costs are going up in the factories and new fabrics get the costs worked out from first principles, but the Japanese are not very good at going back and looking how increased costs affect stuff that has been being made for ages, so they tend not to increase costs of older stuff until they realise they're taking a hosing.

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 12 Jan 2021, 16:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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