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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

    The Resource Centre
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    • vaquero357V
      vaquero357
      Banned
      Joined:

      …it's like 'would somebody just buy the damn thing!!!'. 😃

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      • LewisStonehouseL
        LewisStonehouse
        啓蒙家
        Joined:

        @Giles what's your favourite idea you've had that Haraki has refused to do? The one that got away kind of thing

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        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          Until I see it, I am suspicious that although he said yes, he meant FFS fuck off….

          The denim pullover shirt.....

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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          • LewisStonehouseL
            LewisStonehouse
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            Ah yes, remember spotting that and the story of repeatedly asking Haraki. Looks amazing. Thanks for that, and an excellent thread  🙂

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            • goosehdG
              goosehd
              Mod Squad
              Joined:

              When a new collection is planned (example F/W 21), at what point (timeframe) have you committed to the numbers for sale?  and say that you’ve committed to 100 UHF’s in green, but 5 months before release/delivery you decide you need more, can you adjust the numbers?

              "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

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              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                Nope we commit months ago…..

                If an item is a Japanese release (and 50% of the UHF's are not for eg), and they dont sell fast in Japan, we can sometimes do a Hachioji raid....

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                • goosehdG
                  goosehd
                  Mod Squad
                  Joined:

                  Thanks G.  So when do you start planning a collection (9-10 months - shorter/longer) for each season?

                  "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • GilesG
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    Alex and I start seeding ideas whenever we have flashes of brilliance  😃 😃 😃 whenever we think of them.  Haraki starts the "formal" process the moment the previous collection has gone to production, so FW21 will have started being thought about in Oct/Nov 20.

                    The Fleece-lined type III. Alex and I thought about this probably 18 months ago and we have sampled it a couple of times, we decided to include it as part of the FW21 collection, it won't be released in Japan.

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                    • goosehdG
                      goosehd
                      Mod Squad
                      Joined:

                      So almost a year out.  You guys do a pretty good job of guessing how we'll react (although it's almost always like a pack of ravenous dogs) to the new releases.

                      "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

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                      • GilesG
                        Giles
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined:

                        Well, that is very kind.  One of the discussions I have most with Alex, starts "how did we fuck the numbers on that so much….?"

                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                        • SoleampS
                          Soleamp
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          I'm a relative newcomer on here, although I have lurked for a while, so this has probably been answered somewhere else.  Since you have said that you pretty much wear one pair for a year, what do you do with all of your old/retired pairs (since they all look pretty amazing once you are done with them)?

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                          • GilesG
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined:

                            They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display….

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                            • SoleampS
                              Soleamp
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              @Giles:

                              They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display….

                              Figured it was probably something like that…definitely display worthy.  Mine just go in my closest, haha.

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                              • jordanscollectedJ
                                jordanscollected
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined:

                                Giles-

                                I've been curious but have had problems forming the question to go from my brain out my mouth hole.

                                What % of the factories time that Haraki uses are just spent making Iron Heart clothing? Do the factories make clothes for other brands too? If so, could we assume those other brands have the same quality construction as Iron Heart but without the proprietary materials that Haraki weaves? I can see another Japanese company boasting, "Sewn by the same people who make Iron Heart's famous 21 oz. jeans or western shirts)

                                I feel like i could ask a ton of supporting questions, but I think I have it laid out there.

                                world tours:
                                888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                Mad Red x2
                                Wabidashery

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                                • GilesG
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined:

                                  Jeff,

                                  We use a number of factories, all of who make clothes for other brands.  I do not know what percentage, but it is rising all the time as we grow and most other brands in our space are treading water at best.  In fact, we had a Zoom with H on Tuesday and we discussed the fact that our single biggest constraint on growth was how much time we could/can get in the factories.  Haraki has just started negotiating more time in each factory.  I gave him his opening gambit "you want to back a winner or a loser?"…......Re: the quality, perhaps there are various "levels" and therefore price-points for making stuff.  I do know that Haraki is an absolute sticker for quality, and if I know, you can bet your bottom Dollar that the factories know that too.  Add to this, Haraki is extremely highly respected in the whole Amekaji space, would you want to irritae him?

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                  • mclaincauseyM
                                    mclaincausey
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    @Giles , filed under "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," I wonder whether there will ever be a situation where it makes sense for IH to vertically integrate some of their lines. I guess you really have to be at the right scale and rhythm to pull that off and perhaps companies like The Flat Head were more vulnerable if they were more integrated than IH. I could see the share of production for a factory trending up until it hits 100%, and then a "feck it, let's buy you out" thing happening, but it seems like the flexibility to source different factories works out awfully well for all of us and I don't understand how in-housing would impact internal costs, quality, and flexibility… but it intrigues me as a topic.

                                    Think it, be it.

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                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      We built a shirt factory once.  The first (and only) shirt we made there was the ill-fated IHSH-102-TG.  We decided to let someone else have the shag and hassle….

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                      • D
                                        DrPat
                                        Iron Heart Deity
                                        Joined:

                                        What was wrong with the IHSH-102?  I had the maroon and cream but sold it because the arms were too short for me.  Otherwise I thought it was a good shirt.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • GilesG
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined:

                                          I should have been more specific, It was this one )post above edited for clarity):

                                          Turquoise/Grey Ultra Heavy Buffalo Check Work Shirt
                                          IHSH-102-TG

                                          Towards the end of the article.

                                          https://www.japanalogue.com/giles-padmore-of-iron-heart-talks-covid-slub-recalls-and-overdyeing-whilst-making-jam/

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                          • Bfd70B
                                            Bfd70
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            I seem to remember a release schedule posted but cannot find. Am i mistaken?

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