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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

    The Resource Centre
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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      When I first started working with Haraki, the largest size he made in tops was XL….I've been pushing the sizing boundaries ever since

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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      • PalmerP
        Palmer
        Iron Heart Deity
        Joined:

        @Giles:

        When I first started working with Haraki, the largest size he made in tops was XL….I've been pushing the sizing boundaries ever since

        And for that I owe you a debt of gratitude.

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        • vaquero357V
          vaquero357
          Banned
          Joined:

          …I'm with @Palmer! Feel very fortunate that I'm right at the cusp on this sizing subject! 😉

          …and with that being said @Palmer is my direct competition now on who gets to the limited items being offered! Like a damn game show, who clicks the 'BUY' button first! :o 😃

          …all good and it makes it kind of fun and interesting. Psychologically speaking when there's just 'one' sitting there available it does a real number on me! 😃

          ...thanks Giles!

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          • steelworkerS
            steelworker
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            @Giles:

            When I first started working with Haraki, the largest size he made in tops was XL….I've been pushing the sizing boundaries ever since

            And part of the reason I glommed onto IH. Other brands' size XL were M to my mind.
            And the unsinged, uncalendered, unsized, unanything was interesting. Little did I know… 😘

            Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
            Well, I have others.

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            • PalmerP
              Palmer
              Iron Heart Deity
              Joined:

              @vaquero357:

              …I'm with @Palmer! Feel very fortunate that I'm right at the cusp on this sizing subject! 😉

              …and with that being said @Palmer is my direct competition now on who gets to the limited items being offered! Like a damn game show, who clicks the 'BUY' button first! :o 😃

              …all good and it makes it kind of fun and interesting. Psychologically speaking when there's just 'one' sitting there available it does a real number on me! 😃

              ...thanks Giles!

              Totally agree. Sometimes I'll agonize for weeks over the last item in stock.

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              • vaquero357V
                vaquero357
                Banned
                Joined:

                …it's like 'would somebody just buy the damn thing!!!'. 😃

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                • LewisStonehouseL
                  LewisStonehouse
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  @Giles what's your favourite idea you've had that Haraki has refused to do? The one that got away kind of thing

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                  • GilesG
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    Until I see it, I am suspicious that although he said yes, he meant FFS fuck off….

                    The denim pullover shirt.....

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                    • LewisStonehouseL
                      LewisStonehouse
                      啓蒙家
                      Joined:

                      Ah yes, remember spotting that and the story of repeatedly asking Haraki. Looks amazing. Thanks for that, and an excellent thread  🙂

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                      • goosehdG
                        goosehd
                        Mod Squad
                        Joined:

                        When a new collection is planned (example F/W 21), at what point (timeframe) have you committed to the numbers for sale?  and say that you’ve committed to 100 UHF’s in green, but 5 months before release/delivery you decide you need more, can you adjust the numbers?

                        "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

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                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          Nope we commit months ago…..

                          If an item is a Japanese release (and 50% of the UHF's are not for eg), and they dont sell fast in Japan, we can sometimes do a Hachioji raid....

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                          • goosehdG
                            goosehd
                            Mod Squad
                            Joined:

                            Thanks G.  So when do you start planning a collection (9-10 months - shorter/longer) for each season?

                            "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

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                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:

                              Alex and I start seeding ideas whenever we have flashes of brilliance  😃 😃 😃 whenever we think of them.  Haraki starts the "formal" process the moment the previous collection has gone to production, so FW21 will have started being thought about in Oct/Nov 20.

                              The Fleece-lined type III. Alex and I thought about this probably 18 months ago and we have sampled it a couple of times, we decided to include it as part of the FW21 collection, it won't be released in Japan.

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                              • goosehdG
                                goosehd
                                Mod Squad
                                Joined:

                                So almost a year out.  You guys do a pretty good job of guessing how we'll react (although it's almost always like a pack of ravenous dogs) to the new releases.

                                "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

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                                • GilesG
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined:

                                  Well, that is very kind.  One of the discussions I have most with Alex, starts "how did we fuck the numbers on that so much….?"

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                  • SoleampS
                                    Soleamp
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    I'm a relative newcomer on here, although I have lurked for a while, so this has probably been answered somewhere else.  Since you have said that you pretty much wear one pair for a year, what do you do with all of your old/retired pairs (since they all look pretty amazing once you are done with them)?

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                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display….

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                      • SoleampS
                                        Soleamp
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        @Giles:

                                        They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display….

                                        Figured it was probably something like that…definitely display worthy.  Mine just go in my closest, haha.

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                                        • jordanscollectedJ
                                          jordanscollected
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined:

                                          Giles-

                                          I've been curious but have had problems forming the question to go from my brain out my mouth hole.

                                          What % of the factories time that Haraki uses are just spent making Iron Heart clothing? Do the factories make clothes for other brands too? If so, could we assume those other brands have the same quality construction as Iron Heart but without the proprietary materials that Haraki weaves? I can see another Japanese company boasting, "Sewn by the same people who make Iron Heart's famous 21 oz. jeans or western shirts)

                                          I feel like i could ask a ton of supporting questions, but I think I have it laid out there.

                                          world tours:
                                          888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                          Mad Red x2
                                          Wabidashery

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                                          • GilesG
                                            Giles
                                            IHUK Crew
                                            Joined:

                                            Jeff,

                                            We use a number of factories, all of who make clothes for other brands.  I do not know what percentage, but it is rising all the time as we grow and most other brands in our space are treading water at best.  In fact, we had a Zoom with H on Tuesday and we discussed the fact that our single biggest constraint on growth was how much time we could/can get in the factories.  Haraki has just started negotiating more time in each factory.  I gave him his opening gambit "you want to back a winner or a loser?"…......Re: the quality, perhaps there are various "levels" and therefore price-points for making stuff.  I do know that Haraki is an absolute sticker for quality, and if I know, you can bet your bottom Dollar that the factories know that too.  Add to this, Haraki is extremely highly respected in the whole Amekaji space, would you want to irritae him?

                                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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