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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

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  • G
    Giles
    IHUK Crew
    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

    When I first started working with Haraki, the largest size he made in tops was XL….I've been pushing the sizing boundaries ever since

    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

    last edited by 28 Apr 2021, 06:39 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • P
      Palmer
      Iron Heart Deity
      Joined: 4 Jan 2019

      @Giles:

      When I first started working with Haraki, the largest size he made in tops was XL….I've been pushing the sizing boundaries ever since

      And for that I owe you a debt of gratitude.

      last edited by 28 Apr 2021, 06:50 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • V
        vaquero357
        Banned
        Joined: 9 Aug 2020

        …I'm with @Palmer! Feel very fortunate that I'm right at the cusp on this sizing subject! 😉

        …and with that being said @Palmer is my direct competition now on who gets to the limited items being offered! Like a damn game show, who clicks the 'BUY' button first! :o 😃

        …all good and it makes it kind of fun and interesting. Psychologically speaking when there's just 'one' sitting there available it does a real number on me! 😃

        ...thanks Giles!

        last edited by 28 Apr 2021, 13:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • S
          steelworker
          見習いボス
          Joined: 16 Apr 2014

          @Giles:

          When I first started working with Haraki, the largest size he made in tops was XL….I've been pushing the sizing boundaries ever since

          And part of the reason I glommed onto IH. Other brands' size XL were M to my mind.
          And the unsinged, uncalendered, unsized, unanything was interesting. Little did I know… 😘

          Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
          Well, I have others.

          last edited by 28 Apr 2021, 21:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • P
            Palmer
            Iron Heart Deity
            Joined: 4 Jan 2019

            @vaquero357:

            …I'm with @Palmer! Feel very fortunate that I'm right at the cusp on this sizing subject! 😉

            …and with that being said @Palmer is my direct competition now on who gets to the limited items being offered! Like a damn game show, who clicks the 'BUY' button first! :o 😃

            …all good and it makes it kind of fun and interesting. Psychologically speaking when there's just 'one' sitting there available it does a real number on me! 😃

            ...thanks Giles!

            Totally agree. Sometimes I'll agonize for weeks over the last item in stock.

            last edited by 28 Apr 2021, 22:20 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • V
              vaquero357
              Banned
              Joined: 9 Aug 2020

              …it's like 'would somebody just buy the damn thing!!!'. 😃

              last edited by 29 Apr 2021, 02:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • L
                LewisStonehouse
                啓蒙家
                Joined: 11 May 2020

                @Giles what's your favourite idea you've had that Haraki has refused to do? The one that got away kind of thing

                last edited by 14 Jun 2021, 18:22 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • G
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                  Until I see it, I am suspicious that although he said yes, he meant FFS fuck off….

                  The denim pullover shirt.....

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                  last edited by 14 Jun 2021, 18:27 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • L
                    LewisStonehouse
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined: 11 May 2020

                    Ah yes, remember spotting that and the story of repeatedly asking Haraki. Looks amazing. Thanks for that, and an excellent thread  🙂

                    last edited by 14 Jun 2021, 18:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • G
                      goosehd
                      Mod Squad
                      Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                      When a new collection is planned (example F/W 21), at what point (timeframe) have you committed to the numbers for sale?  and say that you’ve committed to 100 UHF’s in green, but 5 months before release/delivery you decide you need more, can you adjust the numbers?

                      "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                      last edited by 26 Jun 2021, 15:02 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • G
                        Giles
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                        Nope we commit months ago…..

                        If an item is a Japanese release (and 50% of the UHF's are not for eg), and they dont sell fast in Japan, we can sometimes do a Hachioji raid....

                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                        last edited by 26 Jun 2021, 15:08 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • G
                          goosehd
                          Mod Squad
                          Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                          Thanks G.  So when do you start planning a collection (9-10 months - shorter/longer) for each season?

                          "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                          last edited by 26 Jun 2021, 15:14 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • G
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                            Alex and I start seeding ideas whenever we have flashes of brilliance  😃 😃 😃 whenever we think of them.  Haraki starts the "formal" process the moment the previous collection has gone to production, so FW21 will have started being thought about in Oct/Nov 20.

                            The Fleece-lined type III. Alex and I thought about this probably 18 months ago and we have sampled it a couple of times, we decided to include it as part of the FW21 collection, it won't be released in Japan.

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 26 Jun 2021, 15:19 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • G
                              goosehd
                              Mod Squad
                              Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                              So almost a year out.  You guys do a pretty good job of guessing how we'll react (although it's almost always like a pack of ravenous dogs) to the new releases.

                              "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                              last edited by 26 Jun 2021, 15:31 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • G
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                Well, that is very kind.  One of the discussions I have most with Alex, starts "how did we fuck the numbers on that so much….?"

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 26 Jun 2021, 15:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • SoleampS
                                  Soleamp
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined: 30 Aug 2020

                                  I'm a relative newcomer on here, although I have lurked for a while, so this has probably been answered somewhere else.  Since you have said that you pretty much wear one pair for a year, what do you do with all of your old/retired pairs (since they all look pretty amazing once you are done with them)?

                                  last edited by 27 Aug 2021, 14:46 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                    They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display….

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 27 Aug 2021, 15:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • SoleampS
                                      Soleamp
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined: 30 Aug 2020

                                      @Giles:

                                      They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display….

                                      Figured it was probably something like that…definitely display worthy.  Mine just go in my closest, haha.

                                      last edited by 27 Aug 2021, 16:29 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • jordanscollectedJ
                                        jordanscollected
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined: 13 Nov 2018

                                        Giles-

                                        I've been curious but have had problems forming the question to go from my brain out my mouth hole.

                                        What % of the factories time that Haraki uses are just spent making Iron Heart clothing? Do the factories make clothes for other brands too? If so, could we assume those other brands have the same quality construction as Iron Heart but without the proprietary materials that Haraki weaves? I can see another Japanese company boasting, "Sewn by the same people who make Iron Heart's famous 21 oz. jeans or western shirts)

                                        I feel like i could ask a ton of supporting questions, but I think I have it laid out there.

                                        world tours:
                                        888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                        Mad Red x2
                                        Wabidashery

                                        last edited by 16 Sept 2021, 16:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • G
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                          Jeff,

                                          We use a number of factories, all of who make clothes for other brands.  I do not know what percentage, but it is rising all the time as we grow and most other brands in our space are treading water at best.  In fact, we had a Zoom with H on Tuesday and we discussed the fact that our single biggest constraint on growth was how much time we could/can get in the factories.  Haraki has just started negotiating more time in each factory.  I gave him his opening gambit "you want to back a winner or a loser?"…......Re: the quality, perhaps there are various "levels" and therefore price-points for making stuff.  I do know that Haraki is an absolute sticker for quality, and if I know, you can bet your bottom Dollar that the factories know that too.  Add to this, Haraki is extremely highly respected in the whole Amekaji space, would you want to irritae him?

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 16 Sept 2021, 16:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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