A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim

[bob_z]

Did IH ever did a piece in Broken Twill?

[EdH]

@bob_z They're doing all the core jeans cuts in broken twill in this season's run, in both indigo and indigo-overdyed-black, iirc.

[Giles]

@bob_z said in A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim:

Did IH ever did a piece in Broken Twill?

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/category/146/spring-summer-2023-bottoms

[alexpupin]

@Giles said in A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim:

In a left hand twill, the warp gets tightened during the weaving process, thus the result is typically a smoother face to the fabric.

Is the described warp tightening intentional when weaving a LH twill or is the tightening only due to differences in a LH loom construction compared to a RH one?
In other words, is LH twill fabric purposely weaved with its characteristic stiffness and lighter nuance in mind? (I love my 19L :-))

[Giles]

It's purely to do with the way the warp twisted and the direction of the weave, the twist hgets tighter in LHT and looser in RHT.....

[alexpupin]

Ah, yes. I didn’t take into account the yarn twist and the effect of weaving in opposite directions.
Thanks @Giles !

[Karol]

@Giles are all IH denims 3x1 twill or you change to 2x1 with lighter oz?
It would be so cool to have the info in the https://www.ironhearteu.com/our-denims/ or in the detail of product description. And really the description would be cool for all fabrics, you have the 1x1 plain weave duck, chambray, flannel, ...
It would be super educational.

[mclaincausey]

@Karol said in A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim:

@Giles are all IH denims 3x1 twill or you change to 2x1 with lighter oz?
It would be so cool to have the info in the https://www.ironhearteu.com/our-denims/ or in the detail of product description. And really the description would be cool for all fabrics, you have the 1x1 twill duck, chambray, flannel, ...
It would be super educational.

I think the 12 oz wabash is a 2x1

[Karol]

@mclaincausey Thanks for pointing out the error. I pasted from the earlier spot in the post and got twill out of 1x1 plain weave

[Giles]

I will add as I can.....

[Karol]

I just realized there is a thread for this - https://www.ironhearteu.com/forum/topic/2523/chambray-vs-mock-twist-vs-regular-fabric
And You @Giles made an awesome intro and introduced official notation as well!
Thanks for taking it into consideration. You guys were already pointing it out in some special situations like the IHSH-335-BLK where its diligently stated it is herringbone. It's awesome to have unified naming conventions.

[denim-dawg]

@Giles Excellent information! Cheers

[Karol]

This forum just keeps on giving in terms of introducing to the whole process.
Thanks @Giles for this awesome recommendation - WEAVING:
CONVERSION OF YARN TO FABRIC

[JeansCat]

If you open the close pictures of jeans on this site... It looks opposite. Left hand looks more fluffy, right hand is smoother.

[Karol]

I finally found a link to a free .pdf version - enjoy!

WEAVING: CONVERSION OF YARN TO FABRIC

[goosehd]

@Karol …being in IT, I am assuming you checked the site. I clicked on your link and freaked out when it was counting down to let me in…

I don’t know if this thing is common, and just want to check.

[Karol]

@goosehd Yep, I seen it as well at the first attempt, or if you refresh the page cache with ctrl+F5. It looked to me like cloudflare cashing, nothing to be worried about. The page is actually hosted by some university in India - Government Polytechnic Patna-7

[tody]

@goosehd It's a common thing, to protect the servers from too many simultaneous downloads.

[goosehd]

I hate taking our forum members to random sites via links and will need to get an ok on this…@Giles @Alex

[Karol]

@goosehd said in A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim:

I hate taking our forum members to random sites via links and will need to get an ok on this…@Giles @Alex

we can always download that .pdf directly into the forum. But my thinking with the external link was that we would avoid potential copy right claims by not hosting the file by ourselves.