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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim

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    • alexpupinA
      alexpupin
      Haraki san Student
      @Giles
      Joined:

      @Giles said in A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim:

      In a left hand twill, the warp gets tightened during the weaving process, thus the result is typically a smoother face to the fabric.

      Is the described warp tightening intentional when weaving a LH twill or is the tightening only due to differences in a LH loom construction compared to a RH one?
      In other words, is LH twill fabric purposely weaved with its characteristic stiffness and lighter nuance in mind? (I love my 19L :-))

      Patience is the virtue of faders

      IH-888-UHR-YA
      IH-888S-19L
      IH-634S-A
      IH-666-XHS
      IH-666S-SLB
      IH-634S-SLB

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • GilesG
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined:

        It's purely to do with the way the warp twisted and the direction of the weave, the twist hgets tighter in LHT and looser in RHT.....

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
        • alexpupinA
          alexpupin
          Haraki san Student
          Joined:

          Ah, yes. I didn’t take into account the yarn twist and the effect of weaving in opposite directions.
          Thanks @Giles !

          Patience is the virtue of faders

          IH-888-UHR-YA
          IH-888S-19L
          IH-634S-A
          IH-666-XHS
          IH-666S-SLB
          IH-634S-SLB

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • KarolK
            Karol
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            @Giles are all IH denims 3x1 twill or you change to 2x1 with lighter oz?
            It would be so cool to have the info in the https://www.ironhearteu.com/our-denims/ or in the detail of product description. And really the description would be cool for all fabrics, you have the 1x1 plain weave duck, chambray, flannel, ...
            It would be super educational.

            Favorite:
            IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
            IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
            IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
            IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

            last edited by Karol mclaincauseyM 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • mclaincauseyM
              mclaincausey
              見習いボス
              @Karol
              Joined:

              @Karol said in A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim:

              @Giles are all IH denims 3x1 twill or you change to 2x1 with lighter oz?
              It would be so cool to have the info in the https://www.ironhearteu.com/our-denims/ or in the detail of product description. And really the description would be cool for all fabrics, you have the 1x1 twill duck, chambray, flannel, ...
              It would be super educational.

              I think the 12 oz wabash is a 2x1

              Think it, be it.

              last edited by KarolK 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
              • KarolK
                Karol
                啓蒙家
                @mclaincausey
                Joined:

                @mclaincausey Thanks for pointing out the error. I pasted from the earlier spot in the post and got twill out of 1x1 plain weave 🤦

                Favorite:
                IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • GilesG
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined:

                  I will add as I can.....

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • KarolK
                    Karol
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    I just realized there is a thread for this - https://www.ironhearteu.com/forum/topic/2523/chambray-vs-mock-twist-vs-regular-fabric
                    And You @Giles made an awesome intro and introduced official notation as well!
                    Thanks for taking it into consideration. You guys were already pointing it out in some special situations like the IHSH-335-BLK where its diligently stated it is herringbone. It's awesome to have unified naming conventions.

                    Favorite:
                    IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                    IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                    IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                    IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                    • denim-dawgD
                      denim-dawg
                      Iron Heart Deity
                      @Giles
                      Joined:

                      @Giles Excellent information! Cheers

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • KarolK
                        Karol
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        This forum just keeps on giving in terms of introducing to the whole process.
                        Thanks @Giles for this awesome recommendation - WEAVING:
                        CONVERSION OF YARN TO FABRIC

                        Favorite:
                        IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                        IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                        IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                        IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • JeansCatJ
                          JeansCat
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          If you open the close pictures of jeans on this site... It looks opposite. Left hand looks more fluffy, right hand is smoother.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • KarolK
                            Karol
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined:

                            I finally found a link to a free .pdf version - enjoy!

                            WEAVING: CONVERSION OF YARN TO FABRIC

                            Favorite:
                            IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                            IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                            IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                            IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                            last edited by goosehdG 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • goosehdG
                              goosehd
                              Mod Squad
                              @Karol
                              Joined:

                              @Karol …being in IT, I am assuming you checked the site. I clicked on your link and freaked out when it was counting down to let me in…

                              I don’t know if this thing is common, and just want to check.

                              "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                              last edited by goosehd KarolK todyT 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 1
                              • KarolK
                                Karol
                                啓蒙家
                                @goosehd
                                Joined:

                                @goosehd Yep, I seen it as well at the first attempt, or if you refresh the page cache with ctrl+F5. It looked to me like cloudflare cashing, nothing to be worried about. The page is actually hosted by some university in India - Government Polytechnic Patna-7

                                Favorite:
                                IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                                IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                                IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                                IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • todyT
                                  tody
                                  啓蒙家
                                  @goosehd
                                  Joined:

                                  @goosehd It's a common thing, to protect the servers from too many simultaneous downloads.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                  • goosehdG
                                    goosehd
                                    Mod Squad
                                    Joined:

                                    I hate taking our forum members to random sites via links and will need to get an ok on this…@Giles @Alex

                                    "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                    last edited by KarolK 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • KarolK
                                      Karol
                                      啓蒙家
                                      @goosehd
                                      Joined:

                                      @goosehd said in A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim:

                                      I hate taking our forum members to random sites via links and will need to get an ok on this…@Giles @Alex

                                      we can always download that .pdf directly into the forum. But my thinking with the external link was that we would avoid potential copy right claims by not hosting the file by ourselves.

                                      Favorite:
                                      IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                                      IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                                      IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                                      IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                                      last edited by Karol 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • AlexA
                                        Alex
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined:

                                        I think its fine, @goosehd

                                        last edited by goosehdG 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                        • goosehdG
                                          goosehd
                                          Mod Squad
                                          @Alex
                                          Joined:

                                          @Alex Thank you.

                                          "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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