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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Live Reveal - Thursday 12th of June at 1700BST

Tailoring

The Resource Centre
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  • G
    Giles
    IHUK Crew
    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

    Ouch, you are so right - sorry.  Will not happen again.. G

    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

    last edited by 23 Feb 2010, 07:50 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • ?
      Guest
      Joined:

      @LandoCal126:

      Giles - Thanks for sharing that! Kiya - Looks incredible! Till - How about you craft your own denim suit since this one is not up to par? Would love to see some of your handy work!

      I will have to dig deep into my photo trunk to get some photos of stuff I've tailored. I vividly remember the dress I made while in fashion design school for my then GF. Red Valentino Haute Couture silk crepe. A bitch to work (the material that is LOL). Had to blind stitch meters of it by hand. What was frustrating was that between the time I took the measures and made the test dress and the time I had the real dress done, she got her tonsils taken out. She lost like 5kg, which on a 48kg girl is a lot. So the dress fit too loosely and I got points subtracted. I also admit to not being the best seamstress on the planet but I can tell if two shoulders of a suit are not the same. It's pretty obvious. And it's really strange because as nicely as the rest of the suit is done, I would think whoever made it, knows what he is doing and takes pride in his work. So wouldn't he correct an off shoulder? The only thing I can think of is that it happened afterwards. The shoulder and neck are the most difficult part to get right anyway. When you carry a bag with a shoulder strap just once, it can totally screw the shoulder of a jacket almost irreparably. That's because mostly the shoulder tailoring and the shoulder pad are custom fit for one another. So if you can't get the exact same pad, it is very difficult to get it right again. Of course, you can change both pads but then you usually change the fit of the suit.

      My tip is that when you do a bespoke suit and you don't know whether you will live there forever (i.e. use the same tailor) or how long the tailor is going to be around, get a second pair of shoulder pads as back-up. If ever something goes wrong you can replace with the original part.

      Till

      last edited by 23 Feb 2010, 10:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • H
        hectic
        Joined: 24 Sept 2009

        @tfar:

        Wow, that is some awesome detail on the collar. Really nice. Too bad the shoulder is off. I hope it's just in the picture because otherwise that is a really nice suit. Thanks for the info on the shoes. Are those still available? If so, how much?

        Till

        Found this blog by accident when googling the shoes:
        http://lehomeroom.blogspot.com/2007_09_01_archive.html

        Really strange fold in the back of the suit, too. I can't imagine how a suit good be so well tailored in some regards and so badly tailored in other regards. For a traditional guy like me Argyle socks on the wedding day are heresy but I guess that's what the outfit was about, so it fits.

        Till, I reckon that the detail on the back of this suit is either a pin fold for the photo shoot, or perhaps a design riff based on a jeans cinch back.

        last edited by 23 Feb 2010, 10:25 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • ?
          Guest
          Joined:

          I had thought of the cinch back, too. Still, between a good creative idea and the way the end result looks there is a difference that must be honestly appreciated. So I hope it's just something like you said with a pin for the photo shoot.

          Don't wanna dwell on it, so it doesn't come off as me criticizing, but obviously we are all concerned with details and high quality or we wouldn't be here and when I see something that is very nicely done in some regards and looks very bad in others, it just raises questions.

          Till

          last edited by 23 Feb 2010, 12:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • G
            gbougard
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined: 20 Apr 2010

            Hi

            I have a pair of PBJ's which are absolutely wonderful, but the lower part of the leg is too wide and I'd like to have it tapered. Gordon from BIG told me about Denim Doctors in LA, but LA is halfway around the globe from France, so I was hoping that someone on this forum in Europe would be able to point someone who is trustworthy, who will work as well as the fine folks who made those jeans in the fist place at PBJ.

            Any suggestions?

            Thanks in advance

            Sly Dunbar bigs up IH on YT
            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8t2OM738mKY
            Sly & Robbie A Run Tings
            Gregory Isaacs Liveth 4 I-ver

            Renault: What in heaven’s name brought you to Casablanca?
            Rick: My health. I came to Casablanca for the waters.
            Renault: The waters? What waters? We’re in the desert.
            Ric

            last edited by 28 Sept 2010, 19:13 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • B
              Beatle
              Joined: 8 Dec 2009

              any decent tailor should be able to taper…

              We can do anything

              http://bybeatle.com

              last edited by 28 Sept 2010, 19:17 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • M
                Matt
                見習いボス
                Joined: 4 Oct 2011

                I'm thinking bout hemming my Busters… Anyone have any suggestions for chain stitching in my neck of the woods?  I'm in Baltimore.

                last edited by 30 Sept 2012, 22:19 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • F
                  FOXY
                  Joined: 14 Mar 2011

                  @gbougard:

                  Hi

                  I have a pair of PBJ's which are absolutely wonderful, but the lower part of the leg is too wide and I'd like to have it tapered. Gordon from BIG told me about Denim Doctors in LA, but LA is halfway around the globe from France, so I was hoping that someone on this forum in Europe would be able to point someone who is trustworthy, who will work as well as the fine folks who made those jeans in the fist place at PBJ.

                  Any suggestions?

                  Thanks in advance

                  Check with Daniel and the gang at DC4 - sometimes they do smaller repairs if they fell like it.
                  They certainly have the machinery for it…

                  Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

                  last edited by 1 Oct 2012, 03:05 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • G
                    Graeme
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined: 30 Mar 2012

                    OK, I'm bumping an old thread, but I've got a denim made-to-measure suit by Timothy Everest. I should post pictures sometime, but it's currently at the other end of the country, and it really needs tweaking to fit me.

                    Anyway, there are a few bits on his blog of recent denim creations. The first is a dotted denim suit.

                    The second is in a cotton jacquard camouflage denim.

                    And this third is rather pink…

                    last edited by 29 Sept 2013, 19:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • C
                      CosmoSix5
                      Haraki san Prodigy
                      Joined: 4 Sept 2023

                      I wanted to share more of my tailor Marina's amazing work. She just shortened my CPO sleeves .75" but her attention to detail is just the best. And $15 per item .. and she won't take more. I had fun sitting on her floor after I was invited to her kids tea party one time. If you're in central Ohio I recommend her highly.
                      20250410_140124.jpg
                      20250410_140233.jpg

                      John 1 1-3 ❤️♥️❤️♥️

                      last edited by CosmoSix5 4 Dec 2025, 16:28 10 Apr 2025, 18:18 68degreesorless6 1 Reply Last reply 23 Apr 2025, 09:23 Reply Quote 3
                      • J
                        jpvisual
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined: 18 Jan 2025

                        Does anyone tailor their Iron Heart shirts or is that not advisable? After trying several IH shirts, they all seem to narrow in the chest and shoulders at a size that looks good on me. When sizing up to fit my chest/shoulders the sleeves and body are too long.

                        last edited by 22 Apr 2025, 14:55 goosehdG B N catdad1C 4 Replies Last reply 22 Apr 2025, 16:35 Reply Quote 1
                        • goosehdG
                          goosehd
                          Mod Squad
                          @jpvisual
                          Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                          @jpvisual I have not, but anything can be tailored with the right seamstress, tailor, etc. Shop around and ask questions. Good businesses will be able to tell you up front what they can and can not do. They will also suggest things that you may not have considered.

                          "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                          last edited by 22 Apr 2025, 16:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                          • B
                            Bridger
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            @jpvisual
                            Joined: 3 Mar 2021

                            @jpvisual said in Tailoring:

                            Does anyone tailor their Iron Heart shirts or is that not advisable?

                            @jpvisual I have had a bunch of shirts altered - including shorting sleeves and hemming length. A quality tailor will be able to retain the side gusset and button placement on the sleeves so it will look like new.

                            I usually wash the shirt first in case of any shrinkage pre-alteration.

                            last edited by 22 Apr 2025, 16:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                            • J
                              jpvisual
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined: 18 Jan 2025

                              Good to know, thanks!

                              last edited by 22 Apr 2025, 17:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                              • IkeapartyI
                                Ikeaparty
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined: 3 Oct 2024

                                I was actually planning to take in my 411 today to get it shortened an inch in the back, never had it done before but since its just going to be shortened in the back I think its gonna be easy enough

                                last edited by Ikeaparty 22 Apr 2025, 17:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • N
                                  NickD
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  @jpvisual
                                  Joined: 17 Nov 2024

                                  @jpvisual sleeves are not an easy thing to get altered, they always look off if shortened from the cuff end, and its a lot of work to shorten at the shoulder end.

                                  last edited by 23 Apr 2025, 06:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • 68degreesorless6
                                    68degreesorless
                                    Haraki san Student
                                    @CosmoSix5
                                    Joined: 19 Jul 2021

                                    @CosmoSix5 how do I find her?

                                    last edited by 23 Apr 2025, 09:23 C 2 Replies Last reply 23 Apr 2025, 11:23 Reply Quote 0
                                    • C
                                      CosmoSix5
                                      Haraki san Prodigy
                                      @68degreesorless
                                      Joined: 4 Sept 2023

                                      @68degreesorless Marina's Dress Shop in Mansfield. Google that.

                                      John 1 1-3 ❤️♥️❤️♥️

                                      last edited by 23 Apr 2025, 11:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                      • catdad1C
                                        catdad1
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        @jpvisual
                                        Joined: 17 Jan 2025

                                        @jpvisual I sized up in my 292 cpo to wear as an overshirt but the sleeves ended up being just shy of my finger tips. Had my local seamstress shorten the sleeves at the cuff by ~2.5" and it fits way better now. It's definitely not as clean as the original stitching and I can see where she struggled at the pleats. Fits ideal now though and no one but me will notice the irregular stitching.

                                        last edited by catdad1 23 Apr 2025, 11:37 J 1 Reply Last reply 23 Apr 2025, 15:35 Reply Quote 1
                                        • J
                                          jpvisual
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          @catdad1
                                          Joined: 18 Jan 2025

                                          @catdad1 yeah exactly what I might do. IH advised against it, but I'd rather have something that fits well. I don't care at all about perfect stitching. There is a denim tailor in my area that is really good.

                                          Most shirts (not just IH) are designed to fit big in the middle, narrow up top or just narrow or big all the way through. Athletic cuts are difficult to come by in this market so a tailor is really the best option.

                                          last edited by 23 Apr 2025, 15:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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