Watches - another OCD problem
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Rolex has just announced the Land-Dweller, which has been pretty heavily leaked over the last few days.
It's an integrated bracelet watch, which they haven't done for some years, but the big news is the movement. It has a new silicon natural escarpment, which they've dubbed the Dynapulse, it runs at 5 Hz, rather than 4 Hz, and is thinner than the existing movements.
Rolex claims it's more accurate, but it's still certified to their -2/+2 seconds per day Superlative Chronometer standard. I thought that they might have chased Omega's 0/+2 seconds claim for the Spirate system.
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The trouble that I have with the Land-Dweller is the price. It's $16K (US) or $24K (Australian). That's about the same as a Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date in steel and gold, or an entry level Fifty Fathoms.
Like @JDelage, I don't think that it's an ugly watch. It feels a bit derivative. The Tissot PRX looks like a version of the Vacheron Constantin 222, and the Land-Dweller seems to be a copy of these with Rolex garnishes.
I'm curious where the movement will turn up next. A titanium Explorer fitted with it would be lovely.
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@Graeme I think most people spending $16K on a watch really are in the position to just buy all of the above mentioned models. I'm really not sure they are comparing dollars for features or value too much.
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@Graeme tempted me to look at the recent announcements. The two standouts for me are never going to happen - one isn’t even a watch (which won’t surprise some of you)!
The Cartier Tank à Guichets is beautiful, especially IMO this one:
But the real winner for me is this from Patek. I love the combination of horology, silversmithing and enamelling, although I doubt my extended family has enough spare organs to cover the cost!
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@ARNC my favourite Patek release is the Calatrava 6196P. It's a simple hand wound watch in platinum. I'd get one over the Cubitus, if I had a spare CHF 40K lying around. (The Cubitus is CHF 35K, so slightly cheaper, and far less lovely.)
Zenith announced the GFJ which is similar (a platinum case, hand wound movement), but a slightly larger case. It's actually more expensive, at CHF 49K.
What's really interesting about it is Zenith have resurrected a vintage chronometer movement, the Calibre 135, which they've given a few contemporary twists. It's got a 72-hour power reserve, up from 40 hours, and it's regulated to -2 to +2 sec per day, which is the same as Rolex's Superlative Chronometer rating.
@RobeOfTheMagi I don't think that buyers will be cross shopping the Zenith and the Patek either!
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@Graeme the Calatrava is beautiful and definitely more practical than my choice. The GFJ dial doesn’t work for me for some reason (although many of the design elements are up my street), but the movement is definitely interesting.
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Zenith rarely gets it right IMO. The movement isn’t attractive either. Not vibing with the weird engravings.
But the PP is lovely.
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@mclaincausey - totally agree. The only Zeniths I ever liked were some of the El Primeros and a few of the plane jane Defys that they launched 5 or 6 years ago.
The PP is obviously beautiful. They rarely put out anything horrid. But of course they are WAY out of my price range.
As far as the new Rolex Land whatever - I applaud the idea but I think they went too far with the dials. They don’t do it for me at all. If that was a basic sunray dial or something else conservative from their archives, maybe I could get behind it. I also think the middle links in the bracelet are also pushing it a bit too into the bling range.
They are obviously trying to capture some of the VC and AP market with a reduced price point. But I can’t see AP buyers to even look in Rolex’s direction at this. I could be wrong.
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My favorite new release for now is H. Moser's Pop collection, a series of watches using 6 stones in 2-stone dial combos. There are 3 base models (small second, tourbillon, tourbillon + minute repeater) that can be ordered in any of the 6 2-stone combos, so a total of 18 different watches. They're expensive, with the cheapest small second starting at $30k, but beautiful.
I'm not sure how to link images (as opposed to upload), but the collection is worth taking a look at here: https://h-moser.com/pop-collection/
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Nomos has a cool GMT, in a number of colors, which might be the best option in that price range: https://monochrome-watches.com/nomos-club-sport-neomatik-worldtimer-introducing-limited-editions-specs-price/
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Those Pop don’t do it for me but the Streamliner is one of my favorites.
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Just added another IWC to my small collection. I really dig this generation of aqua timers (and the one before that) Fun story. I went to my local second hand pusher to pick up an old omega that had been serviced . Saw this on the table ready for photoshoot. About to get up for sale. He told me that in 2018 he got an email from the owner if he could sell this watch for him because he never wore it. Yes of course we can. They agreed on a commission price but then he never heard back from him. Until last week. A reply to the same email from 2018 if he could still help him selling it ! Still been in the desk drawer and not worn. So practically unworn from the first owner and for a remarkable good price it’s now in my possession.
Cheers
Peter 🤙😎
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That’s crazy! Beautiful IWC, wear it in good health
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@PJ that’s a beauty congrats!
I am off to Japan on Friday for 2 weeks with the family.. am gonna try Nakano Broadway in Tokyo - watch heaven - to search for an Omega Chronostop or vintage Zenith.
