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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Live Reveal - Thursday 12th of June at 1700BST

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • GraemeG
      Graeme
      啓蒙家
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      Rolex has just announced the Land-Dweller, which has been pretty heavily leaked over the last few days.

      Rolex Land-Dweller

      It's an integrated bracelet watch, which they haven't done for some years, but the big news is the movement. It has a new silicon natural escarpment, which they've dubbed the Dynapulse, it runs at 5 Hz, rather than 4 Hz, and is thinner than the existing movements.

      Rolex claims it's more accurate, but it's still certified to their -2/+2 seconds per day Superlative Chronometer standard. I thought that they might have chased Omega's 0/+2 seconds claim for the Spirate system.

      Hodinkee and Fratello have write-ups.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
      • GraemeG
        Graeme
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        Meanwhile, Grand Seiko laughs in Rolex's face when it comes to accuracy. The new Spring Drive UFA is accurate to within 20 seconds per year, and it's $6K cheaper at around $10K.

        Grand Seiko.jpg

        More at Hodinkee.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 5
        • BrianB
          Brian
          Joined:

          and any mortal might be able to actually buy the GS from an AD without jumping through hoops

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
          • JDelageJ
            JDelage
            啓蒙家
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            That Land Dweller is not an ugly watch TBH. I'm sure it will sell very well.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • GraemeG
              Graeme
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              The trouble that I have with the Land-Dweller is the price. It's $16K (US) or $24K (Australian). That's about the same as a Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date in steel and gold, or an entry level Fifty Fathoms.

              Like @JDelage, I don't think that it's an ugly watch. It feels a bit derivative. The Tissot PRX looks like a version of the Vacheron Constantin 222, and the Land-Dweller seems to be a copy of these with Rolex garnishes.

              I'm curious where the movement will turn up next. A titanium Explorer fitted with it would be lovely.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • RobeOfTheMagiR
                RobeOfTheMagi
                Haraki san Expert
                Joined:

                @Graeme I think most people spending $16K on a watch really are in the position to just buy all of the above mentioned models. I'm really not sure they are comparing dollars for features or value too much.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                • ARNCA
                  ARNC
                  啓蒙家
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                  @Graeme tempted me to look at the recent announcements. The two standouts for me are never going to happen - one isn’t even a watch (which won’t surprise some of you)!

                  The Cartier Tank à Guichets is beautiful, especially IMO this one:
                  IMG_0348.jpeg

                  But the real winner for me is this from Patek. I love the combination of horology, silversmithing and enamelling, although I doubt my extended family has enough spare organs to cover the cost!
                  IMG_0347.jpeg

                  “Every day that you survive you get a free sunset“

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                  • GraemeG
                    Graeme
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                    @ARNC my favourite Patek release is the Calatrava 6196P. It's a simple hand wound watch in platinum. I'd get one over the Cubitus, if I had a spare CHF 40K lying around. (The Cubitus is CHF 35K, so slightly cheaper, and far less lovely.)

                    Patek 6196P

                    Zenith announced the GFJ which is similar (a platinum case, hand wound movement), but a slightly larger case. It's actually more expensive, at CHF 49K.

                    Zenith GFJ

                    What's really interesting about it is Zenith have resurrected a vintage chronometer movement, the Calibre 135, which they've given a few contemporary twists. It's got a 72-hour power reserve, up from 40 hours, and it's regulated to -2 to +2 sec per day, which is the same as Rolex's Superlative Chronometer rating.

                    Zenith Calibre 135

                    @RobeOfTheMagi I don't think that buyers will be cross shopping the Zenith and the Patek either!

                    last edited by ARNCA 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                    • ARNCA
                      ARNC
                      啓蒙家
                      @Graeme
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                      @Graeme the Calatrava is beautiful and definitely more practical than my choice. The GFJ dial doesn’t work for me for some reason (although many of the design elements are up my street), but the movement is definitely interesting.

                      “Every day that you survive you get a free sunset“

                      last edited by GraemeG 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                      • GraemeG
                        Graeme
                        啓蒙家
                        @ARNC
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                        @ARNC the GFJ dial looks too fussy, with too many different materials and textures. Zenith could have simplified it, and it would have looked better.

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                        • mclaincauseyM
                          mclaincausey
                          見習いボス
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                          Zenith rarely gets it right IMO. The movement isn’t attractive either. Not vibing with the weird engravings.

                          But the PP is lovely.

                          Think it, be it.

                          last edited by mclaincausey M 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                          • M
                            MTpockets
                            @mclaincausey
                            Joined:

                            @mclaincausey - totally agree. The only Zeniths I ever liked were some of the El Primeros and a few of the plane jane Defys that they launched 5 or 6 years ago.

                            The PP is obviously beautiful. They rarely put out anything horrid. But of course they are WAY out of my price range.

                            As far as the new Rolex Land whatever - I applaud the idea but I think they went too far with the dials. They don’t do it for me at all. If that was a basic sunray dial or something else conservative from their archives, maybe I could get behind it. I also think the middle links in the bracelet are also pushing it a bit too into the bling range.

                            They are obviously trying to capture some of the VC and AP market with a reduced price point. But I can’t see AP buyers to even look in Rolex’s direction at this. I could be wrong.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:

                              The Patek gets my vote too....

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                              • JDelageJ
                                JDelage
                                啓蒙家
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                                My favorite new release for now is H. Moser's Pop collection, a series of watches using 6 stones in 2-stone dial combos. There are 3 base models (small second, tourbillon, tourbillon + minute repeater) that can be ordered in any of the 6 2-stone combos, so a total of 18 different watches. They're expensive, with the cheapest small second starting at $30k, but beautiful.

                                I'm not sure how to link images (as opposed to upload), but the collection is worth taking a look at here: https://h-moser.com/pop-collection/

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • JDelageJ
                                  JDelage
                                  啓蒙家
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                                  Nomos has a cool GMT, in a number of colors, which might be the best option in that price range: https://monochrome-watches.com/nomos-club-sport-neomatik-worldtimer-introducing-limited-editions-specs-price/

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • mclaincauseyM
                                    mclaincausey
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                                    Those Pop don’t do it for me but the Streamliner is one of my favorites.

                                    Think it, be it.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                    • P
                                      PJ
                                      Haraki san Student
                                      Joined:

                                      IMG_7116.jpeg

                                      Just added another IWC to my small collection. I really dig this generation of aqua timers (and the one before that) Fun story. I went to my local second hand pusher to pick up an old omega that had been serviced . Saw this on the table ready for photoshoot. About to get up for sale. He told me that in 2018 he got an email from the owner if he could sell this watch for him because he never wore it. Yes of course we can. They agreed on a commission price but then he never heard back from him. Until last week. A reply to the same email from 2018 if he could still help him selling it ! Still been in the desk drawer and not worn. So practically unworn from the first owner and for a remarkable good price it’s now in my possession.
                                      Cheers 😊

                                      Peter 🤙😎

                                      last edited by chiverusC 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 7
                                      • GilesG
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined:

                                        That's amazing.....Congrats

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                        • AnesthetistA
                                          Anesthetist
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                                          That’s crazy! Beautiful IWC, wear it in good health

                                          IG: bluehandsslim

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                          • chiverusC
                                            chiverus
                                            Haraki san Expert
                                            @PJ
                                            Joined:

                                            @PJ that’s a beauty congrats!

                                            I am off to Japan on Friday for 2 weeks with the family.. am gonna try Nakano Broadway in Tokyo - watch heaven - to search for an Omega Chronostop or vintage Zenith.

                                            last edited by chiverusC 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
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