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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket

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    • neph93N
      neph93
      見習いボス
      Joined:

      @Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.

      The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.

      The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
      And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.

      I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.

      Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:

      https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712

      “Some of those that work forces
      Are the same that burn crosses”

      • Virginia Woolf
      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • AlexanderA
        Alexander
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        @neph93:

        @Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.

        The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.

        The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
        And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.

        I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.

        Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:

        https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712

        Very helpful! Thank you so much! Is there any information available on the 23oz RHT? Is it basically the same as the 21oz flagship denim just with more weight?

        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • neph93N
          neph93
          見習いボス
          Joined:

          @Alexander:

          Very helpful! Thank you so much! Is there any information available on the 23oz RHT? Is it basically the same as the 21oz flagship denim just with more weight?

          There will be but I can’t help you I’m afraid. It is a Self Edge exclusive denim, and as such unavailable from anyone but them. It is one of the few IH denims I don’t have personal experience with. You’ll find info on their site, and there may well be some reference to it on here. Try a forum search.

          Most of the IH denims are RHT, but all are distinct, regardless of weight. The two heavy hitters (XHS at 25oz and the now defunt UHR at 23oz) while being a similar weight are entirely different from each other. I don’t think making a lighter or heavier version of an existing denim would interest Haraki-san. All materials are designed from first principles and have a specific end result in mind.

          “Some of those that work forces
          Are the same that burn crosses”

          • Virginia Woolf
          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • AlexanderA
            Alexander
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined:

            Again very helpful! Would be interesting to find out more about the Self Edge “Vision” behind that denim. Cheers!

            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • GilesG
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined:

              SE asked for a heavier denim, all Haraki did was increase the weight of the weft.

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • OccupantO
                Occupant
                Joined:

                The one defining characteristic of the SE 23oz would be the tightness of its weave. The non-overdyed fabric looks like a double indigo because the tightness makes the weft pretty much invisible. I imagine the overdyeing process only tightened it up further, making this a very warm jacket indeed.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • AlexanderA
                  Alexander
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  @Occupant:

                  The one defining characteristic of the SE 23oz would be the tightness of its weave. The non-overdyed fabric looks like a double indigo because the tightness makes the weft pretty much invisible. I imagine the overdyeing process only tightened it up further, making this a very warm jacket indeed.

                  I agree! It's indeed almost like a windbreaker. The dark color is what caught my interest in the first place. I am excited to see how it will fade over time. In terms of comfort, I have to say it is already quite smooth.

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • AlexanderA
                    Alexander
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    I really love this jacket! Sometimes I’m just starring at the fabric and it’s structure. As mentioned before the 23oz denim is really great to wear, it’s soft but also substantial. As promised by some friends recently my leather jackets get less attention;)
                    Attached some fit pics and details.

                    I am 6.6 feet, around 210 pound (200cm, 95kg), and wearing a size 46 (XXXL).

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • neph93N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
                      Joined:

                      It is a beauty alright.

                      “Some of those that work forces
                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                      • Virginia Woolf
                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • ton312T
                        ton312
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                        • cjC
                          cj
                          Joined:

                          Ooo boy, these pictures are making me miss the one I owned. If I had sized correctly, I'd be wearing it too!

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • Y
                            Yogi217
                            Joined:

                            @ton312:

                            Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.

                            What is that jacket you're wearing under it? I'm always looking for inner layers/liners to extend my denim jacket wearing season…

                            Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                            • ton312T
                              ton312
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              @Yogi217:

                              @ton312:

                              Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.

                              What is that jacket you're wearing under it? I'm always looking for inner layers/liners to extend my denim jacket wearing season…

                              Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

                              That's actually nothing more than a vintage nylon vest I grabbed at thrift store. Does the job though.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • denimondenimondenimD
                                denimondenimondenim
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
                                • DenimmacdailyD
                                  Denimmacdaily
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  Any updates on this fabric?

                                  R.macc

                                  last edited by neph93N 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • neph93N
                                    neph93
                                    見習いボス
                                    @Denimmacdaily
                                    Joined:

                                    @Denimmacdaily it was a Self Edge exclusive, small batch run. You would have to reach out to them to find out if there are plans for more.

                                    “Some of those that work forces
                                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                                    • Virginia Woolf
                                    last edited by DenimmacdailyD 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                    • DenimmacdailyD
                                      Denimmacdaily
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      @neph93
                                      Joined:

                                      @neph93 thanks for the reply! I actually purchased one myself already! I was more so referring to the fading journey update! Haha should have been specific but I wanted to see how this has even turning out for those wearing it heavily !

                                      R.macc

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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