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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      There are no inherent advantages to one or the other, it's just a case of what people like..  It's all subjective.

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • AlexanderA
        Alexander
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        @Giles:

        There are no inherent advantages to one or the other, it's just a case of what people like..  It's all subjective.

        Makes sense. BTW, I am impressed by how responsive you are! Great job, thanks!

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • neph93N
          neph93
          見習いボス
          Joined:

          @Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.

          The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.

          The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
          And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.

          I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.

          Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:

          https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712

          “Some of those that work forces
          Are the same that burn crosses”

          • Virginia Woolf
          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • AlexanderA
            Alexander
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined:

            @neph93:

            @Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.

            The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.

            The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
            And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.

            I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.

            Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:

            https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712

            Very helpful! Thank you so much! Is there any information available on the 23oz RHT? Is it basically the same as the 21oz flagship denim just with more weight?

            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • neph93N
              neph93
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              @Alexander:

              Very helpful! Thank you so much! Is there any information available on the 23oz RHT? Is it basically the same as the 21oz flagship denim just with more weight?

              There will be but I can’t help you I’m afraid. It is a Self Edge exclusive denim, and as such unavailable from anyone but them. It is one of the few IH denims I don’t have personal experience with. You’ll find info on their site, and there may well be some reference to it on here. Try a forum search.

              Most of the IH denims are RHT, but all are distinct, regardless of weight. The two heavy hitters (XHS at 25oz and the now defunt UHR at 23oz) while being a similar weight are entirely different from each other. I don’t think making a lighter or heavier version of an existing denim would interest Haraki-san. All materials are designed from first principles and have a specific end result in mind.

              “Some of those that work forces
              Are the same that burn crosses”

              • Virginia Woolf
              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • AlexanderA
                Alexander
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                Again very helpful! Would be interesting to find out more about the Self Edge “Vision” behind that denim. Cheers!

                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • GilesG
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined:

                  SE asked for a heavier denim, all Haraki did was increase the weight of the weft.

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • OccupantO
                    Occupant
                    Joined:

                    The one defining characteristic of the SE 23oz would be the tightness of its weave. The non-overdyed fabric looks like a double indigo because the tightness makes the weft pretty much invisible. I imagine the overdyeing process only tightened it up further, making this a very warm jacket indeed.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • AlexanderA
                      Alexander
                      Raw and Unwashed
                      Joined:

                      @Occupant:

                      The one defining characteristic of the SE 23oz would be the tightness of its weave. The non-overdyed fabric looks like a double indigo because the tightness makes the weft pretty much invisible. I imagine the overdyeing process only tightened it up further, making this a very warm jacket indeed.

                      I agree! It's indeed almost like a windbreaker. The dark color is what caught my interest in the first place. I am excited to see how it will fade over time. In terms of comfort, I have to say it is already quite smooth.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • AlexanderA
                        Alexander
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        I really love this jacket! Sometimes I’m just starring at the fabric and it’s structure. As mentioned before the 23oz denim is really great to wear, it’s soft but also substantial. As promised by some friends recently my leather jackets get less attention;)
                        Attached some fit pics and details.

                        I am 6.6 feet, around 210 pound (200cm, 95kg), and wearing a size 46 (XXXL).

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • neph93N
                          neph93
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          It is a beauty alright.

                          “Some of those that work forces
                          Are the same that burn crosses”

                          • Virginia Woolf
                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • ton312T
                            ton312
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                            • cjC
                              cj
                              Joined:

                              Ooo boy, these pictures are making me miss the one I owned. If I had sized correctly, I'd be wearing it too!

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • Y
                                Yogi217
                                Joined:

                                @ton312:

                                Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.

                                What is that jacket you're wearing under it? I'm always looking for inner layers/liners to extend my denim jacket wearing season…

                                Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                • ton312T
                                  ton312
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  @Yogi217:

                                  @ton312:

                                  Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.

                                  What is that jacket you're wearing under it? I'm always looking for inner layers/liners to extend my denim jacket wearing season…

                                  Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

                                  That's actually nothing more than a vintage nylon vest I grabbed at thrift store. Does the job though.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • denimondenimondenimD
                                    denimondenimondenim
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
                                    • DenimmacdailyD
                                      Denimmacdaily
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      Any updates on this fabric?

                                      R.macc

                                      last edited by neph93N 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • neph93N
                                        neph93
                                        見習いボス
                                        @Denimmacdaily
                                        Joined:

                                        @Denimmacdaily it was a Self Edge exclusive, small batch run. You would have to reach out to them to find out if there are plans for more.

                                        “Some of those that work forces
                                        Are the same that burn crosses”

                                        • Virginia Woolf
                                        last edited by DenimmacdailyD 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                        • DenimmacdailyD
                                          Denimmacdaily
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          @neph93
                                          Joined:

                                          @neph93 thanks for the reply! I actually purchased one myself already! I was more so referring to the fading journey update! Haha should have been specific but I wanted to see how this has even turning out for those wearing it heavily !

                                          R.macc

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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