TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
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The LHT is probably the toughest denim we make, getting anymore accurate than that almost impossible. This is not a science so massive amounts of subjectivity need to be applied. When OD'd, how the indigo version of the denim fades is irrelevant as the OD process changes everything.
Thanks Gilles! It seems to me that the LHT has only advantages compared to the RHT - softer hand, more durable, more structure in the fabric. What's the reason the RHT is so popular, also at Iron Heart. Don't get me wrong. I love my new 23oz OD version, but a quite voice in my head says that I maybe should have waited for the LHT version that supposedly -according to you
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There are no inherent advantages to one or the other, it's just a case of what people like.. It's all subjective.
Makes sense. BTW, I am impressed by how responsive you are! Great job, thanks!
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@Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.
The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.
The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.
Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712
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@Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.
The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.
The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.
Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712
Very helpful! Thank you so much! Is there any information available on the 23oz RHT? Is it basically the same as the 21oz flagship denim just with more weight?
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Very helpful! Thank you so much! Is there any information available on the 23oz RHT? Is it basically the same as the 21oz flagship denim just with more weight?
There will be but I can’t help you I’m afraid. It is a Self Edge exclusive denim, and as such unavailable from anyone but them. It is one of the few IH denims I don’t have personal experience with. You’ll find info on their site, and there may well be some reference to it on here. Try a forum search.
Most of the IH denims are RHT, but all are distinct, regardless of weight. The two heavy hitters (XHS at 25oz and the now defunt UHR at 23oz) while being a similar weight are entirely different from each other. I don’t think making a lighter or heavier version of an existing denim would interest Haraki-san. All materials are designed from first principles and have a specific end result in mind.
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Again very helpful! Would be interesting to find out more about the Self Edge “Vision” behind that denim. Cheers!
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The one defining characteristic of the SE 23oz would be the tightness of its weave. The non-overdyed fabric looks like a double indigo because the tightness makes the weft pretty much invisible. I imagine the overdyeing process only tightened it up further, making this a very warm jacket indeed.
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The one defining characteristic of the SE 23oz would be the tightness of its weave. The non-overdyed fabric looks like a double indigo because the tightness makes the weft pretty much invisible. I imagine the overdyeing process only tightened it up further, making this a very warm jacket indeed.
I agree! It's indeed almost like a windbreaker. The dark color is what caught my interest in the first place. I am excited to see how it will fade over time. In terms of comfort, I have to say it is already quite smooth.
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I really love this jacket! Sometimes I’m just starring at the fabric and it’s structure. As mentioned before the 23oz denim is really great to wear, it’s soft but also substantial. As promised by some friends recently my leather jackets get less attention;)
Attached some fit pics and details.I am 6.6 feet, around 210 pound (200cm, 95kg), and wearing a size 46 (XXXL).
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Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.
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Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.
What is that jacket you're wearing under it? I'm always looking for inner layers/liners to extend my denim jacket wearing season…
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Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.
What is that jacket you're wearing under it? I'm always looking for inner layers/liners to extend my denim jacket wearing season…
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That's actually nothing more than a vintage nylon vest I grabbed at thrift store. Does the job though.
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@Denimmacdaily it was a Self Edge exclusive, small batch run. You would have to reach out to them to find out if there are plans for more.
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@neph93 thanks for the reply! I actually purchased one myself already! I was more so referring to the fading journey update! Haha should have been specific but I wanted to see how this has even turning out for those wearing it heavily !
