TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
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Just some pics of the one that I have… I would say that even at this weight, the jacket is still very wearable; that is, the thickness of the seams don't cause any discomfort. The jacket is initially quite stiff so it can look a little awkward when sitting down with the middle buttons done up. I'm sure that with more wear, the fabric will soften and drape better. I like the stealth-like nature of the pockets (tonal stitching as opposed to contrast).
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Hi everybody!
First of all, great forum! Great content. I’m a passive user since quite a bit and just got my first “real” jeans jacket after being in the leather jacket game for quite some time.
I treated myself with a 23oz Type III overdyed jacket (selfedge), which I bought in the NYC store. It fits like a glove, but I would appreciate to get some advice on the first days. The denim is unsanforized but all the shrinkage is gone due to the overdoing process if I understood correctly. Is there any soaking before starting to wear the jacket necessary? I read a lot about that this would prolong the lifetime as it removes starch and dusk residue which could, if not removed, cause premature breaking of the garment.
Appreciate your answers! Pictures following soon.
Cheers,
Alex -
Hi everybody!
First of all, great forum! Great content. I’m a passive user since quite a bit and just got my first “real” jeans jacket after being in the leather jacket game for quite some time.
I treated myself with a 23oz Type III overdyed jacket (selfedge), which I bought in the NYC store. It fits like a glove, but I would appreciate to get some advice on the first days. The denim is unsanforized but all the shrinkage is gone due to the overdoing process if I understood correctly. Is there any soaking before starting to wear the jacket necessary? I read a lot about that this would prolong the lifetime as it removes starch and dusk residue which could, if not removed, cause premature breaking of the garment.
Appreciate your answers! Pictures following soon.Hi Alex,
You don’t need to do anything other than wear it. The overdying has taken everything out of it, including starch, dust etc.
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Thank you for your immediate reply!!!
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Another question while familiarizing myself with all the terminology. I saw there was also a 19oz left hand twill version of the overdyed jacket made which will likely be restocked in December. The left hand twill is described as the toughest/ one of the toughest denims available. Also, I read that left hand twill fades a are little more fuzzy compared to right hand twill. Now looking at this 23oz version - How does this compare in terms is “toughness” or durability. I would love to better understand the different characteristics between these two versions.
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The LHT is probably the toughest denim we make, getting anymore accurate than that almost impossible. This is not a science so massive amounts of subjectivity need to be applied. When OD'd, how the indigo version of the denim fades is irrelevant as the OD process changes everything.
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The LHT is probably the toughest denim we make, getting anymore accurate than that almost impossible. This is not a science so massive amounts of subjectivity need to be applied. When OD'd, how the indigo version of the denim fades is irrelevant as the OD process changes everything.
Thanks Gilles! It seems to me that the LHT has only advantages compared to the RHT - softer hand, more durable, more structure in the fabric. What's the reason the RHT is so popular, also at Iron Heart. Don't get me wrong. I love my new 23oz OD version, but a quite voice in my head says that I maybe should have waited for the LHT version that supposedly -according to you
- gets restocked in December. -
There are no inherent advantages to one or the other, it's just a case of what people like.. It's all subjective.
Makes sense. BTW, I am impressed by how responsive you are! Great job, thanks!
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@Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.
The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.
The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.
Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712
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@Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.
The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.
The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.
Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712
Very helpful! Thank you so much! Is there any information available on the 23oz RHT? Is it basically the same as the 21oz flagship denim just with more weight?
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Very helpful! Thank you so much! Is there any information available on the 23oz RHT? Is it basically the same as the 21oz flagship denim just with more weight?
There will be but I can’t help you I’m afraid. It is a Self Edge exclusive denim, and as such unavailable from anyone but them. It is one of the few IH denims I don’t have personal experience with. You’ll find info on their site, and there may well be some reference to it on here. Try a forum search.
Most of the IH denims are RHT, but all are distinct, regardless of weight. The two heavy hitters (XHS at 25oz and the now defunt UHR at 23oz) while being a similar weight are entirely different from each other. I don’t think making a lighter or heavier version of an existing denim would interest Haraki-san. All materials are designed from first principles and have a specific end result in mind.
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Again very helpful! Would be interesting to find out more about the Self Edge “Vision” behind that denim. Cheers!
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The one defining characteristic of the SE 23oz would be the tightness of its weave. The non-overdyed fabric looks like a double indigo because the tightness makes the weft pretty much invisible. I imagine the overdyeing process only tightened it up further, making this a very warm jacket indeed.
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The one defining characteristic of the SE 23oz would be the tightness of its weave. The non-overdyed fabric looks like a double indigo because the tightness makes the weft pretty much invisible. I imagine the overdyeing process only tightened it up further, making this a very warm jacket indeed.
I agree! It's indeed almost like a windbreaker. The dark color is what caught my interest in the first place. I am excited to see how it will fade over time. In terms of comfort, I have to say it is already quite smooth.
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I really love this jacket! Sometimes I’m just starring at the fabric and it’s structure. As mentioned before the 23oz denim is really great to wear, it’s soft but also substantial. As promised by some friends recently my leather jackets get less attention;)
Attached some fit pics and details.I am 6.6 feet, around 210 pound (200cm, 95kg), and wearing a size 46 (XXXL).
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Received mine the other day. Stout piece of gear. Apparently it’s so good I’ve lost my head over it. Looking forward to breaking it in.
