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IH-634S-A - 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans (20th Anniversary Edition)

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  • N
    neph93
    見習いボス
    Joined: 18 Aug 2014

    @Jeanmoreau:

    The 888 is a straight leg too isn’t it?

    For me tapered leg feels like I’m dressing too young for my age.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I often see some confusion between “regular” and “straight”, and “slim” and “tapered”. The assumption being that all tapered cuts are also slim, and all regular cuts are straight.

    IH have a slim straight cut (666), and a regular tapered cut (888). Then there’s the 555 which many assume to be tapered but actually isn’t (it tapers sharply in the thigh but drops straight from knee to hem).

    “Some of those that work forces
    Are the same that burn crosses”

    • Virginia Woolf
    last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 05:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • N
      neph93
      見習いボス
      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

      @Giles:

      Fit really is in the eye of the wearer.  I have seen so many people of very similar build say of the same cut "best cut I've ever had", "just does not work for me", does not suit my build" etc etc. It's a personal thing, and what "the cut just does work for me" really means "I personally don't like me in it".

      This resonates for sure. In my early 30’s I heard that tapered legs work for shorter inseams as the give an impression of greater length (ahem). That made sense to me and having a short inseam for my height I bought into it. While it maybe true to a degree, it is an exaggeration to say it makes a meaningful difference.

      So I started as a 555 guy (which was always bordering on too tight in the thigh and knee). At the same time I have always loved straight legged, loose cargo pants. Add to this the fact that I saw folks on here with my build, wearing straight cuts and looking boss, and I was getting confused. I’ve now tried every IH cut and the one thing I know for sure is, that I’m 6ft tall, bulky and still have a 31” inseam. I also know that any cut can work if you like the aesthetics. That includes what else you wear with it, on your feet, on your top half, how you style the whole thing etc. etc.

      “Some of those that work forces
      Are the same that burn crosses”

      • Virginia Woolf
      last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 06:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • E
        EdH
        Iron Heart Deity
        Joined: 2 Jan 2022

        @Perpetual_beta:

        @EdH:

        I got an extra half inch out of the thigh measurement on my 21oz 888s

        @EdH Interesting as I size by thigh measurement and use a belt. I also suffer from calf size issues - would you comment on the calves between 888 and 634 for the same tag size, please. I do have 888s, but now I am strongly considering 634s.

        I've never tried the 634 on - I'd have to size up once on the waist to hit my minimum thigh measurement… though that would probably hit just fine on the hips rather than at the waist...

        My calves are not that bulky so I've got plenty of room down there on my 888s. But if you want to let me know how far down the inseam you'd like me to measure across I'll let you know how wide my 888s are at that point. I've hemmed to 31.5 inches on my 888s (in case you're really tall!), and they're a tag 34.

        Take the dive...

        last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 10:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • N
          neph93
          見習いボス
          Joined: 18 Aug 2014

          @Perpetual_beta:

          @EdH:

          I got an extra half inch out of the thigh measurement on my 21oz 888s

          @EdH Interesting as I size by thigh measurement and use a belt. I also suffer from calf size issues - would you comment on the calves between 888 and 634 for the same tag size, please. I do have 888s, but now I am strongly considering 634s.

          Just check the difference between the knee and hem of both models on the tables. That will tell you the rate of taper so you can compare. The short answer is that there is much more room in the 634.

          “Some of those that work forces
          Are the same that burn crosses”

          • Virginia Woolf
          last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 10:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Y
            yannis
            Haraki san Expert
            Joined: 26 Aug 2020

            Neph93 is spot as always. For the same tag size the 634 has considerably more room from knee to hem and actually mid thigh also.

            last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 12:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • P
              Perpetual_beta
              Haraki san Student
              Joined: 17 May 2022

              @EdH:

              @Perpetual_beta:

              @EdH:

              I got an extra half inch out of the thigh measurement on my 21oz 888s

              @EdH Interesting as I size by thigh measurement and use a belt. I also suffer from calf size issues - would you comment on the calves between 888 and 634 for the same tag size, please. I do have 888s, but now I am strongly considering 634s.

              I've never tried the 634 on - I'd have to size up once on the waist to hit my minimum thigh measurement… though that would probably hit just fine on the hips rather than at the waist...

              My calves are not that bulky so I've got plenty of room down there on my 888s. But if you want to let me know how far down the inseam you'd like me to measure across I'll let you know how wide my 888s are at that point. I've hemmed to 31.5 inches on my 888s (in case you're really tall!), and they're a tag 34.

              Same numbers for me. I do have 888, was looking for 634 in comparison. I will look at the listed numbers for knee and hem and extrapolate what it would be if they were hemmed to 31…

              last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 15:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • P
                Perpetual_beta
                Haraki san Student
                Joined: 17 May 2022

                @neph93:

                @Perpetual_beta:

                @EdH:

                I got an extra half inch out of the thigh measurement on my 21oz 888s

                @EdH Interesting as I size by thigh measurement and use a belt. I also suffer from calf size issues - would you comment on the calves between 888 and 634 for the same tag size, please. I do have 888s, but now I am strongly considering 634s.

                Just check the difference between the knee and hem of both models on the tables. That will tell you the rate of taper so you can compare. The short answer is that there is much more room in the 634.

                Yep, not straight forward though because for 21oz the inseam varies by about 1in between 634 and 888. furthermore, my actual inseam is 31. 888 is wider in the thigh, narrower in the calf. So I have to extrapolate a fair bit. Trying them on would be best. Or get measurements in 10cm steps from the crotch downwards…

                last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 15:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                  Time to get your calculator out then @Perpetual_beta . Although the rate of taper on the 634 is so slight that the opening when hemmed will be so similar to published dims, it will barely make a difference.

                  “Some of those that work forces
                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                  • Virginia Woolf
                  last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 16:02 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Y
                    yannis
                    Haraki san Expert
                    Joined: 26 Aug 2020

                    The thigh measurement between the 2 cuts does not tell the story. It maybe true that the 888 has a slightly bigger thigh measurement at the crotch seam, but about 4 inches down all the way to the knee and 634 will be wider. For example i have to take 38 in the 888 cut, but i can get away with a tag 36 in the 634 cut. I got big thighs and the taper from around mid thigh makes the 888 uncomfortable.

                    last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 16:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • P
                      Perpetual_beta
                      Haraki san Student
                      Joined: 17 May 2022

                      @yannis That is very helpful info! It is indeed above the knees where more room is desirable and would allow me to downsize the waist size. Helpful discussion. 634 is next.

                      IH-731-KHA are great for my legs…

                      last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 16:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • Y
                        yannis
                        Haraki san Expert
                        Joined: 26 Aug 2020

                        No problem mate. Glad i can help to a better decision.

                        last edited by 23 Sept 2022, 16:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • endoE
                          endo
                          見習いボス
                          Joined: 29 May 2020

                          634 anni has been welcomed into the family

                          si tacuisses

                          last edited by 25 Sept 2022, 14:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • KasiK
                            Kasi
                            見習いボス
                            Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                            To be honest, I think it the way how you wear 634..

                            I have started to like them.

                            Possibly most people back off not their fit..

                            If I can make it work, am sure you can.

                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                            The world's insane
                            While you drink champagne
                            And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                            last edited by 25 Sept 2022, 15:34 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • W
                              Weft 4 Dead
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined: 14 Feb 2021

                              These really seem like a steal for only a ~£20 difference. Chainstitch arcs, cordovan patch, unique pocket print…

                              last edited by 6 Oct 2022, 23:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                We took the minimum margin possible to keep these priced as close as we could to the "normal" 634S….

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 7 Oct 2022, 00:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • W
                                  Weft 4 Dead
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined: 14 Feb 2021

                                  Cool move. £50+ difference would have still been reasonable, imo.

                                  last edited by 7 Oct 2022, 17:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • chrisjohnnickC
                                    chrisjohnnick
                                    Iron Heart Deity
                                    Joined: 7 Jan 2021

                                    I still haven't worn these since I picked them up at the 20th anni. I have 3 other main pairs in my rotation that I'm trying to break in before winter (666XHS, 777N, 666SII) so I knew I'd be in no rush when I picked them up. I think I'm going to wait until Jan 1 and then just throw them on and wear 'em every day for a month or two and see what happens. Or maybe wait a little longer and do the indigo invitational?

                                    Wants List:
                                    IHSH-20-Red, XL
                                    IHSH-208-Indigo Kersey, L-XL
                                    IHSH-254-Grey Kersey, L-XL
                                    IHSW-45 Black, M
                                    IH-526SV 21oz type III, 38 or 40
                                    IH-777S-SB size 32
                                    IH-777S-142 size 31 or 32

                                    last edited by 8 Oct 2022, 00:01 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • AnesthetistA
                                      Anesthetist
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined: 14 May 2011

                                      The arcs make them IMO

                                      IG: bluehandsslim

                                      last edited by 8 Oct 2022, 20:17 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Filthy2123ozjunkieF
                                        Filthy2123ozjunkie
                                        見習いボスー
                                        Joined: 21 Jan 2013

                                        Hardcore jeal @Anesthetist 😍

                                        last edited by 8 Oct 2022, 21:05 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • J
                                          Jeanmoreau
                                          Joined: 19 May 2022

                                          Will the arcs ever get less yellow? I’m an arc hater and they’re bugging me.

                                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                          last edited by 2 Nov 2022, 19:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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