IH-634S-A - 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans (20th Anniversary Edition)
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The 888 is a straight leg too isn’t it?
For me tapered leg feels like I’m dressing too young for my age.
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I often see some confusion between “regular” and “straight”, and “slim” and “tapered”. The assumption being that all tapered cuts are also slim, and all regular cuts are straight.
IH have a slim straight cut (666), and a regular tapered cut (888). Then there’s the 555 which many assume to be tapered but actually isn’t (it tapers sharply in the thigh but drops straight from knee to hem).
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Fit really is in the eye of the wearer. I have seen so many people of very similar build say of the same cut "best cut I've ever had", "just does not work for me", does not suit my build" etc etc. It's a personal thing, and what "the cut just does work for me" really means "I personally don't like me in it".
This resonates for sure. In my early 30’s I heard that tapered legs work for shorter inseams as the give an impression of greater length (ahem). That made sense to me and having a short inseam for my height I bought into it. While it maybe true to a degree, it is an exaggeration to say it makes a meaningful difference.
So I started as a 555 guy (which was always bordering on too tight in the thigh and knee). At the same time I have always loved straight legged, loose cargo pants. Add to this the fact that I saw folks on here with my build, wearing straight cuts and looking boss, and I was getting confused. I’ve now tried every IH cut and the one thing I know for sure is, that I’m 6ft tall, bulky and still have a 31” inseam. I also know that any cut can work if you like the aesthetics. That includes what else you wear with it, on your feet, on your top half, how you style the whole thing etc. etc.
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@EdH:
I got an extra half inch out of the thigh measurement on my 21oz 888s
@EdH Interesting as I size by thigh measurement and use a belt. I also suffer from calf size issues - would you comment on the calves between 888 and 634 for the same tag size, please. I do have 888s, but now I am strongly considering 634s.
I've never tried the 634 on - I'd have to size up once on the waist to hit my minimum thigh measurement… though that would probably hit just fine on the hips rather than at the waist...
My calves are not that bulky so I've got plenty of room down there on my 888s. But if you want to let me know how far down the inseam you'd like me to measure across I'll let you know how wide my 888s are at that point. I've hemmed to 31.5 inches on my 888s (in case you're really tall!), and they're a tag 34.
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@EdH:
I got an extra half inch out of the thigh measurement on my 21oz 888s
@EdH Interesting as I size by thigh measurement and use a belt. I also suffer from calf size issues - would you comment on the calves between 888 and 634 for the same tag size, please. I do have 888s, but now I am strongly considering 634s.
Just check the difference between the knee and hem of both models on the tables. That will tell you the rate of taper so you can compare. The short answer is that there is much more room in the 634.
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Neph93 is spot as always. For the same tag size the 634 has considerably more room from knee to hem and actually mid thigh also.
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@EdH:
@EdH:
I got an extra half inch out of the thigh measurement on my 21oz 888s
@EdH Interesting as I size by thigh measurement and use a belt. I also suffer from calf size issues - would you comment on the calves between 888 and 634 for the same tag size, please. I do have 888s, but now I am strongly considering 634s.
I've never tried the 634 on - I'd have to size up once on the waist to hit my minimum thigh measurement… though that would probably hit just fine on the hips rather than at the waist...
My calves are not that bulky so I've got plenty of room down there on my 888s. But if you want to let me know how far down the inseam you'd like me to measure across I'll let you know how wide my 888s are at that point. I've hemmed to 31.5 inches on my 888s (in case you're really tall!), and they're a tag 34.
Same numbers for me. I do have 888, was looking for 634 in comparison. I will look at the listed numbers for knee and hem and extrapolate what it would be if they were hemmed to 31…
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@EdH:
I got an extra half inch out of the thigh measurement on my 21oz 888s
@EdH Interesting as I size by thigh measurement and use a belt. I also suffer from calf size issues - would you comment on the calves between 888 and 634 for the same tag size, please. I do have 888s, but now I am strongly considering 634s.
Just check the difference between the knee and hem of both models on the tables. That will tell you the rate of taper so you can compare. The short answer is that there is much more room in the 634.
Yep, not straight forward though because for 21oz the inseam varies by about 1in between 634 and 888. furthermore, my actual inseam is 31. 888 is wider in the thigh, narrower in the calf. So I have to extrapolate a fair bit. Trying them on would be best. Or get measurements in 10cm steps from the crotch downwards…
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Time to get your calculator out then @Perpetual_beta . Although the rate of taper on the 634 is so slight that the opening when hemmed will be so similar to published dims, it will barely make a difference.
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The thigh measurement between the 2 cuts does not tell the story. It maybe true that the 888 has a slightly bigger thigh measurement at the crotch seam, but about 4 inches down all the way to the knee and 634 will be wider. For example i have to take 38 in the 888 cut, but i can get away with a tag 36 in the 634 cut. I got big thighs and the taper from around mid thigh makes the 888 uncomfortable.
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@yannis That is very helpful info! It is indeed above the knees where more room is desirable and would allow me to downsize the waist size. Helpful discussion. 634 is next.
IH-731-KHA are great for my legs…
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No problem mate. Glad i can help to a better decision.
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These really seem like a steal for only a ~£20 difference. Chainstitch arcs, cordovan patch, unique pocket print…
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Cool move. £50+ difference would have still been reasonable, imo.
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I still haven't worn these since I picked them up at the 20th anni. I have 3 other main pairs in my rotation that I'm trying to break in before winter (666XHS, 777N, 666SII) so I knew I'd be in no rush when I picked them up. I think I'm going to wait until Jan 1 and then just throw them on and wear 'em every day for a month or two and see what happens. Or maybe wait a little longer and do the indigo invitational?
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The arcs make them IMO
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Hardcore jeal @Anesthetist
