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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

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IH-888-XHS - 25oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo

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  • J
    Jeanmoreau
    Joined: 19 May 2022

    @Daniel:

    Maybe 634 work better on you 🤔

    I tried 633 in a size 33. The top block was too small for me and I got plumbers crack bad.
    It's hard because even with a belt, these 888s sag to almost the same spot. That's just where my belly ends.
    I think I probably should have just gotten these in a 33. But at this point I don't want to risk being wrong and going through the whole return process again.
    I guess I'm just going to move forward with these. Because I've washed them, been wearing for a couple of weeks, and stupidly removed the arcuate.

    Can I take these to any normal tailor to hem? Also do I need chain stitching if I don't care about the aesthetics of it?

    last edited by 23 May 2022, 18:10 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • M
      Matt
      見習いボス
      Joined: 4 Oct 2011

      Chainstitchimg os a preferred historical detail, not a functional component of construction.  Any stitch will do. Don’t feel bad.  Many people, myself included, fail to get it right the first time.  Figuring it all out is part of the fun.

      last edited by 23 May 2022, 20:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • P
        popvulture
        見習いボス
        Joined: 2 Oct 2018

        I'll second what Matt said — I think you could pull em up higher. If they sag with a belt, I'd definitely try just tightening up the belt, because it's not really doing its job otherwise. The way they're sitting now sorta looks like where my 666s fall, if not lower — 888s should really fit a lot closer to your belly button. Also, I think getting them hemmed will help a lot of what you might be thinking as dumpy. Letting the drape be a little straighter and getting rid of that bunchiness will smooth out the look a lot!

        EDIT I fell I should also add that I totally feel your pain trying to figure out higher waisted cuts. They're tricky as hell to size if you've been used to buying lower rise — I definitely have gone through this too. Oh and a hot machine wash will give you more shrinkage even after the hot soak.

        WTB
        IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
        Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

        last edited by 23 May 2022, 21:19 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • J
          Jeanmoreau
          Joined: 19 May 2022

          This is probably a dumb question but can any tailor hem them or because of the thickness should I send them to a specialist?

          last edited by 23 May 2022, 21:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • P
            popvulture
            見習いボス
            Joined: 2 Oct 2018

            Definitely not a dumb question, as XHS is pretty gnarly. I'd ask if they can handle 25oz denim, and if not, you can send it somewhere like Railcar or Indigo Proof. A bit of a hassle putting it in the mail for sure, but worth it considering the cost of the jeans.

            WTB
            IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
            Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

            last edited by 23 May 2022, 21:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • P
              Paul9221
              啓蒙家
              Joined: 19 Apr 2011

              @Jeanmoreau:

              This is probably a dumb question but can any tailor hem them or because of the thickness should I send them to a specialist?

              I've had a tailor complain about 25oz thickness.  You should call ahead.

              And to echo the guys, getting this right on the first try is REALLY difficult.  Sorry.  Starting with 21oz usually makes it easier, on account of it not shrinking anymore.  Then you pick up a pair of unwashed or unsaforized pair with a better idea.

              Blanket-line all the things!!!

              last edited by 23 May 2022, 21:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • J
                Jett129
                見習いボス
                Joined: 17 Aug 2011

                My tailor had to use the sewing machine that he uses to sew leather to work on my 25OZ denim.

                last edited by 23 May 2022, 22:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • P
                  Paul9221
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                  My local seamstress asked me not to bring her my jeans anymore LOL

                  My wife has been hemming them. I'm going to ask her to show me how to do it with the next few pair.  I hate bugging her to do it.

                  Blanket-line all the things!!!

                  last edited by 24 May 2022, 00:34 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • P
                    popvulture
                    見習いボス
                    Joined: 2 Oct 2018

                    @Jett129:

                    My tailor had to use the sewing machine that he uses to sew leather to work on my 25OZ denim.

                    @Paul9221:

                    My local seamstress asked me not to bring her my jeans anymore LOL

                    Amazing! 😃 Yeah I had to double check but verified that both Railcar and IP charge more for heavyweight denim. Tougher job! I always get em hemmed by IH if I can, because they do a great job and it's free. Alas I don't think I'd do it though if I wasn't familiar with the cut / denim already, too much of a gamble.

                    WTB
                    IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
                    Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

                    last edited by 24 May 2022, 00:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • P
                      Paul9221
                      啓蒙家
                      Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                      Having not hemmed things myself, I cannot tell you if this is how everyone does it, but my wife has to cut the pant leg a little farther down than my desired hem length, then she has to fold that extra length into the leg and pin it down so that it stays, then finally sew/hem over the pins.  But, because the 25oz denim is so thick, she uses a hammer to flatten the fold.  It's not a simple job.

                      On the other hand, she loves to darn denim.  She's trying to start doing it as a side-business of sorts.  Does a pretty darn (HA!) great job of it, if I do say so myself!

                      Blanket-line all the things!!!

                      last edited by 24 May 2022, 00:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • P
                        popvulture
                        見習いボス
                        Joined: 2 Oct 2018

                        That's super cool! Darning can be really impressive. I'm always blown away by the pics Indigo Proof posts, practically makes it look like there was never any damage.

                        WTB
                        IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
                        Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

                        last edited by 24 May 2022, 00:58 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • A
                          AdamC
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined: 12 Jan 2018

                          @Paul9221 is your wife looking for a job?  😉 you may have to relocate to Gosport though  😃

                          We also hammer the fold of the heavier denim to help it through the machine.  Our Union Special can get through it without hammering, but it gives it an easier time

                          last edited by 24 May 2022, 05:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • P
                            Paul9221
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                            @AdamC:

                            @Paul9221 is your wife looking for a job?  😉 you may have to relocate to Gosport though  😃

                            We also hammer the fold of the heavier denim to help it through the machine.  Our Union Special can get through it without hammering, but it gives it an easier time

                            I dunno, man…I have a feeling she might find out how much I really spend on clothes if she worked there 😃

                            Blanket-line all the things!!!

                            last edited by 24 May 2022, 16:11 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • M
                              Matt
                              見習いボス
                              Joined: 4 Oct 2011

                              I hear that, I’m nervous about loose lips at the party.  We should probably set up some ground rules prior.  What happens on the forum stays and so on.

                              last edited by 24 May 2022, 16:39 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • P
                                Paul9221
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                                @Matt:

                                I hear that, I’m nervous about loose lips at the party.  We should probably set up some ground rules prior.  What happens on the forum stays and so on.

                                And you need the IHUK crew to print fake catalogs for the event with MUCH lower prices 😃

                                Blanket-line all the things!!!

                                last edited by 24 May 2022, 16:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • M
                                  Mizmazzle
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined: 29 Jun 2021

                                  This whole hemming the 25oz denim is giving me PTSD. I’m still waiting on self edge to get me the heavies back so I can get to business. Looking like this Thursday though!!! Guess I have to cut em a lil slack based on the experiences some of you fellas have had.

                                  To battle the angry fiancé on my clothes purchases I’ve found buying her some selvedge denims or boots goes a long way in keeping the peace in the Mizmazzle household. Course it seriously digs into my own wants and needs. Maybe I need that special “low price” IH catalogue too!!

                                  In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                  last edited by 25 May 2022, 01:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • M
                                    Matt
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined: 4 Oct 2011

                                    Try some cuffs.  I’m 5’9” and I don’t get anything hemmed.  You’ll sleep better.

                                    last edited by 25 May 2022, 13:28 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • F
                                      flannel slut
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined: 21 Feb 2022

                                      I like to peak in from time to time on this thread as I get an odd satisfaction looking at 888XHS fit picks.  @Mizmazzle sorry for the serial killer vibes but your recent fit pick hit the spot.  Only thing better than creeping on XHS pics is softening up a pair of your own… Well done and enjoy!!

                                      last edited by 25 May 2022, 14:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • O
                                        Oz430
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined: 12 Jan 2020

                                        @popvulture:

                                        @Jett129:

                                        My tailor had to use the sewing machine that he uses to sew leather to work on my 25OZ denim.

                                        @Paul9221:

                                        My local seamstress asked me not to bring her my jeans anymore LOL

                                        Amazing! 😃 Yeah I had to double check but verified that both Railcar and IP charge more for heavyweight denim. Tougher job! I always get em hemmed by IH if I can, because they do a great job and it's free. Alas I don't think I'd do it though if I wasn't familiar with the cut / denim already, too much of a gamble.

                                        Yes definitely call and verify with Railcar that they do 25oz denim! I myself drove all the way down there and they turned me away and told me they couldn’t do 25oz because it could potentially damage their machines. Not sure if it was because they were in the middle of remodeling or what the situation was but they wouldn’t touch my 25oz denim.

                                        last edited by 25 May 2022, 23:07 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • P
                                          Paul9221
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                                          @Oz430 ugh, that's rough!  I drove up to them once from Garden Grove.  It was a trek and a half!  And now that I thinka bout it, it's funny that they told you that, because Railcar brought in the waist and hemmed my PIH5DCT (25oz Iron Heart x Pronto collab.).  But that was like 5 years ago.

                                          Blanket-line all the things!!!

                                          last edited by 25 May 2022, 23:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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