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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    IH-888-XHS - 25oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo

    Bottoms
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    • goosehdG
      goosehd
      Mod Squad
      Joined:

      @Mizmazzle I always put a lot of thought into a new pair of jeans and hems.  My first question is always: How will I wear them?  Single or double cuff, no cuff but stacks, no cuff and breaks at the shoe.  Then I have the question what kind of shoe am I typically going to wear with them.

      Once you have answered those questions then I start thinking about hem length.  It sounds complicated, but you’ll get the knack of it.  The denim shrinkage is pretty standard for each specific type of denim.  Most of the info is on the forum, but sometimes you have to read pages of info to find your answer.  You can always ask around here too.  Sometimes we know, and sometimes we are still learning ourselves.

      The easiest thing to remember is that it is easy to take material off, but adding is not.

      Good luck!!

      "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
      • MizmazzleM
        Mizmazzle
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        All this input is greatly appreciated. I’m so stoked to start this 25oz odyssey. Gonna have a heavy 21oz OD and 25oz XHS rotation…and probably the 888D when that comes through. Oh geez…how do y’all get such sweet results with so many pants and so few days in the week!!?

        In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • B
          bbrtns
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          just to be sure: does the XHS need to be soaked before wear?

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            We recommend that you do (though, I don't bother)…..

            https://www.ironheart.co.uk/content/product-care-guidelines

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • MizmazzleM
              Mizmazzle
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              Trigger Pulled!

              In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • OaktaviaO
                Oaktavia
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                @Mizmazzle:

                Trigger Pulled!

                Exciting!

                IG: electricindigowizard

                "Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93

                WTB: IHJ-32 - XL/XXL

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • MizmazzleM
                  Mizmazzle
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                  In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Paul9221P
                    Paul9221
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    @Mizmazzle:

                    Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                    I would obviously prefer chain stitch on all of my IH denim, but I never guess the inseam correctly pre-soak and invariably ask my wife to hem them using a standard heavy duty machine.

                    Blanket-line all the things!!!

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • MizmazzleM
                      Mizmazzle
                      見習いボス
                      Joined:

                      @Paul9221:

                      @Mizmazzle:

                      Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                      I would obviously prefer chain stitch on all of my IH denim, but I never guess the inseam correctly pre-soak and invariably ask my wife to hem them using a standard heavy duty machine.

                      I see I see. I’m hoping I guessed the length right haha. I read earlier in this thread that Giles and some others do a double chain stitch hem. Was kinda wondering if this thick of denim makes that method preferable. Does your wife send it through the machine an extra round?

                      In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • Paul9221P
                        Paul9221
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        @Mizmazzle:

                        @Paul9221:

                        @Mizmazzle:

                        Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                        I would obviously prefer chain stitch on all of my IH denim, but I never guess the inseam correctly pre-soak and invariably ask my wife to hem them using a standard heavy duty machine.

                        I see I see. I’m hoping I guessed the length right haha. I read earlier in this thread that Giles and some others do a double chain stitch hem. Was kinda wondering if this thick of denim makes that method preferable. Does your wife send it through the machine an extra round?

                        She has a bit of a tough time pinning the fabric down on account of its density, but once she has it pinned, it goes through the machine well.  And it's usually a single stitch.  Actually, I don't think I have double stitch on any of my stuff.

                        Double stitch is great if you can get it but it's not necessary for the jeans' structural integrity 🙂

                        Blanket-line all the things!!!

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          I double chain stitch (which means chain stitching each leg 720 degrees), or even treble chain stitch because, with me, the hem stitching is what always goes first…..

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • NikN
                            Nik
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            Perhaps the extra chain stitching becomes necessary when the denim is not cuffed? My single stitches have never failed, but my jeans are cuffed. In my case, the abrasion of the denim against the footwear causes wear to the fold of the cuff, while the stitches are undisturbed.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:

                              I would not say it is necessary, but chain stitch is an inherently weak stitch.  I don't cuff, so I know the hem stitching will fail at some point, so I just do a 720 or 1080…..

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • hoppy_IPAH
                                hoppy_IPA
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                @Mizmazzle:

                                Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                                I got double chain stitch on my 2 recent pairs.  Like Giles, I don’t cuff either.  Kinda wanna see the 1080 though, G!

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • MizmazzleM
                                  Mizmazzle
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined:

                                  I had to order these through Self Edge. I had a credit from another purchase so it made more sense. I will, however, never buy IH from anywhere else again but from IHUK directly. Again, I am resisting the urge to badmouth anyone here, but IHUK they ain’t!!! Incidentally, SE does not offer a double chain stitch. Guess I can send them to Gosport if the hem comes unraveled since I don’t cuff either.

                                  In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    @hoppy_IPA:

                                    Kinda wanna see the 1080 though, G!

                                    https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=15852.msg689733#msg689733

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • MizmazzleM
                                      Mizmazzle
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      Got the heavies in today!! Tried them on and think I got the fit spot on!! Gonna soak em tomorrow morning!
                                      Im new to the chain stitch game. There is some thread coming loose it seams. Thought I’d run it past y’all to see if this is normal or not before I reach out to Self Edge. What ya think?

                                      In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • GilesG
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined:

                                        That is not good.  Needs redoing.

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • MizmazzleM
                                          Mizmazzle
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          Well, shit….

                                          In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • MizmazzleM
                                            Mizmazzle
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            Here the pre-soak fit pick. Think it’s about perfect. Some shrinkage after soaking should tighten up the length and top block a bit. Super happy with the sizing. Now to send them back to self edge to fix that chainstitch hem and get to the soaking, line drying, and most excitedly the pain!!!!

                                            In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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