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IH-888-XHS - 25oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo

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  • N
    neph93
    見習いボス
    Joined: 18 Aug 2014

    The hem will not shrink the full inch. That is there as a max limit. I'd calculate for 0.5-0.75 shrinkage. Otherwise waist will end up a little bigger than starting dim's after shrinkage and stretch.

    “Some of those that work forces
    Are the same that burn crosses”

    • Virginia Woolf
    last edited by 5 May 2022, 20:49 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • G
      goosehd
      Mod Squad
      Joined: 8 Apr 2016

      @Mizmazzle I always put a lot of thought into a new pair of jeans and hems.  My first question is always: How will I wear them?  Single or double cuff, no cuff but stacks, no cuff and breaks at the shoe.  Then I have the question what kind of shoe am I typically going to wear with them.

      Once you have answered those questions then I start thinking about hem length.  It sounds complicated, but you’ll get the knack of it.  The denim shrinkage is pretty standard for each specific type of denim.  Most of the info is on the forum, but sometimes you have to read pages of info to find your answer.  You can always ask around here too.  Sometimes we know, and sometimes we are still learning ourselves.

      The easiest thing to remember is that it is easy to take material off, but adding is not.

      Good luck!!

      "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

      last edited by 5 May 2022, 20:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • M
        Mizmazzle
        見習いボス
        Joined: 29 Jun 2021

        All this input is greatly appreciated. I’m so stoked to start this 25oz odyssey. Gonna have a heavy 21oz OD and 25oz XHS rotation…and probably the 888D when that comes through. Oh geez…how do y’all get such sweet results with so many pants and so few days in the week!!?

        In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

        last edited by 5 May 2022, 21:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • B
          bbrtns
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined: 16 Jun 2021

          just to be sure: does the XHS need to be soaked before wear?

          last edited by 6 May 2022, 07:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • G
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

            We recommend that you do (though, I don't bother)…..

            https://www.ironheart.co.uk/content/product-care-guidelines

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 6 May 2022, 07:29 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • M
              Mizmazzle
              見習いボス
              Joined: 29 Jun 2021

              Trigger Pulled!

              In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

              last edited by 7 May 2022, 04:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • O
                Oaktavia
                見習いボス
                Joined: 12 Jun 2019

                @Mizmazzle:

                Trigger Pulled!

                Exciting!

                IG: electricindigowizard

                "Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93

                WTB: IHJ-72- XL/XXL

                last edited by 7 May 2022, 12:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • M
                  Mizmazzle
                  見習いボス
                  Joined: 29 Jun 2021

                  Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                  In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                  last edited by 9 May 2022, 01:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • P
                    Paul9221
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                    @Mizmazzle:

                    Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                    I would obviously prefer chain stitch on all of my IH denim, but I never guess the inseam correctly pre-soak and invariably ask my wife to hem them using a standard heavy duty machine.

                    Blanket-line all the things!!!

                    last edited by 9 May 2022, 02:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • M
                      Mizmazzle
                      見習いボス
                      Joined: 29 Jun 2021

                      @Paul9221:

                      @Mizmazzle:

                      Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                      I would obviously prefer chain stitch on all of my IH denim, but I never guess the inseam correctly pre-soak and invariably ask my wife to hem them using a standard heavy duty machine.

                      I see I see. I’m hoping I guessed the length right haha. I read earlier in this thread that Giles and some others do a double chain stitch hem. Was kinda wondering if this thick of denim makes that method preferable. Does your wife send it through the machine an extra round?

                      In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                      last edited by 9 May 2022, 02:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • P
                        Paul9221
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                        @Mizmazzle:

                        @Paul9221:

                        @Mizmazzle:

                        Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                        I would obviously prefer chain stitch on all of my IH denim, but I never guess the inseam correctly pre-soak and invariably ask my wife to hem them using a standard heavy duty machine.

                        I see I see. I’m hoping I guessed the length right haha. I read earlier in this thread that Giles and some others do a double chain stitch hem. Was kinda wondering if this thick of denim makes that method preferable. Does your wife send it through the machine an extra round?

                        She has a bit of a tough time pinning the fabric down on account of its density, but once she has it pinned, it goes through the machine well.  And it's usually a single stitch.  Actually, I don't think I have double stitch on any of my stuff.

                        Double stitch is great if you can get it but it's not necessary for the jeans' structural integrity 🙂

                        Blanket-line all the things!!!

                        last edited by 9 May 2022, 03:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • G
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                          I double chain stitch (which means chain stitching each leg 720 degrees), or even treble chain stitch because, with me, the hem stitching is what always goes first…..

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 9 May 2022, 08:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • N
                            Nik
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined: 12 Nov 2020

                            Perhaps the extra chain stitching becomes necessary when the denim is not cuffed? My single stitches have never failed, but my jeans are cuffed. In my case, the abrasion of the denim against the footwear causes wear to the fold of the cuff, while the stitches are undisturbed.

                            last edited by 9 May 2022, 10:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • G
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                              I would not say it is necessary, but chain stitch is an inherently weak stitch.  I don't cuff, so I know the hem stitching will fail at some point, so I just do a 720 or 1080…..

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 9 May 2022, 11:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • H
                                hoppy_IPA
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined: 24 Feb 2019

                                @Mizmazzle:

                                Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

                                I got double chain stitch on my 2 recent pairs.  Like Giles, I don’t cuff either.  Kinda wanna see the 1080 though, G!

                                last edited by 9 May 2022, 14:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • M
                                  Mizmazzle
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined: 29 Jun 2021

                                  I had to order these through Self Edge. I had a credit from another purchase so it made more sense. I will, however, never buy IH from anywhere else again but from IHUK directly. Again, I am resisting the urge to badmouth anyone here, but IHUK they ain’t!!! Incidentally, SE does not offer a double chain stitch. Guess I can send them to Gosport if the hem comes unraveled since I don’t cuff either.

                                  In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                  last edited by 9 May 2022, 15:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                    @hoppy_IPA:

                                    Kinda wanna see the 1080 though, G!

                                    https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=15852.msg689733#msg689733

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 9 May 2022, 17:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • M
                                      Mizmazzle
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined: 29 Jun 2021

                                      Got the heavies in today!! Tried them on and think I got the fit spot on!! Gonna soak em tomorrow morning!
                                      Im new to the chain stitch game. There is some thread coming loose it seams. Thought I’d run it past y’all to see if this is normal or not before I reach out to Self Edge. What ya think?

                                      In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                      last edited by 13 May 2022, 22:08 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • G
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                        That is not good.  Needs redoing.

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                        last edited by 14 May 2022, 06:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • M
                                          Mizmazzle
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined: 29 Jun 2021

                                          Well, shit….

                                          In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                          last edited by 14 May 2022, 13:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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