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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • henry_davidH
      henry_david
      Joined:

      GS majorly leveling up there, @JDelage. I'm impressed. I was also sorry to see some colorful dials in the OP line discontinued at the 36mm and 41mm sizes.

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      • ChrisC
        Chris
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        The lefty GMT seems unusually gimmicky for Rolex.

        That Oris with the grey dial is fantastic, though I'm disappointed they aren't using their signature red rotor for it. Maybe with the full production models that will change?

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        • JDelageJ
          JDelage
          啓蒙家
          Joined:

          Interesting concept watch from Cartier, the "Masse Mysterieuse", where the movement is the rotor… It uses 4 internal sapphire disks to connect the hands, crown, and caliber.

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          • MotyM
            Moty
            Raw and Unwashed
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            Very nice article on Hondinkee about Tudor BB Pro

            https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-pro-2?fbclid=IwAR2z8bRQPFM46iCAsF3hjOs4HA3ldxQo2KnqhXdQyvD3bHQcPrNDv1m15X0

            Courage is resistance to fear, it is mastery of fear, not absence of fear

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            • JDelageJ
              JDelage
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              Yeah, that Black Bay Pro looks like a category (GMT) killer. Sub $4k for a true GMT with Tudor's pedigree, it's going to be hard to beat. It's too tall at 14.6mm, but it's very attractive when compared to the new Grand Seiko GMTs at $8k+ (though to be fair the GS are 1/2mm thinner and use Spring Drive). I also love the Explorer II vibe.

              Speaking of Grand Seiko, they just released 2 small hand-wound pieces in light blue or dark green, sub $5k, which is getting rare for GS. They're available for order now and should ship next month.

              https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-elegance-sbgw283gsbgw285g

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              • mclaincauseyM
                mclaincausey
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                The Cartier is amazing–something novel, creative, but also attractive.

                Hearing the Moon Swatches' straps are staining wrists 😃

                Think it, be it.

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                • GilesG
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined:

                  @JDelage:

                  When an article has to show off a Rolex to demonstrate by contrast how poorly finished a movement is, it says a lot…

                  Possibly one of my favourite sentences ever….

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                  • GilesG
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    @JDelage:

                    Speaking of Grand Seiko, they just released 2 small hand-wound pieces in light blue or dark green, sub $5k, which is getting rare for GS. They're available for order now and should ship next month.

                    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-elegance-sbgw283gsbgw285g

                    Those are beautiful…..

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                    • GraemeG
                      Graeme
                      啓蒙家
                      Joined:

                      I like the Cartier Masse Mysterieuse a lot too.

                      The other quirky complication that caught my eye was the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur Dual Time Zone, which has the subdial move around the main dial to indicate the time zone.

                      It's definitely cooler than the Rolex GMT-Master, and cheaper than buying one on the secondary market. 😃

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                      • JDelageJ
                        JDelage
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        That Hermes watch is very interesting. I've been looking for a good traveller's GMT and they're actually pretty rare, outside of Rolex & Omega (GS are of course excellent, but quite thick). I wonder how thick that Hermes is. It is not cheap in steel ($23k), but the premium for platinum is very low ($6k more to $29k). I wonder if it's because the Pt model is DLC coated and therefore doesn't require the finicky finish that Pt is known for.

                        I do like how the Paris time zone is shown as "24 FBG", which is for 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the address of the original Hermes boutique.

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                        • mclaincauseyM
                          mclaincausey
                          見習いボス
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                          There’s that fucking 6 again from Hermes. All else is concentrically oriented but that digit. I understand the ambiguity of that particular digit when upside down but it’s clear from the context of the surrounding numerals what it is, and the way they orient it it looks more like a 9 than a 6. Really triggers my OCD.

                          Think it, be it.

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                          • GraemeG
                            Graeme
                            啓蒙家
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                            @JDelage there's a video of the Hermès that Revolution posted, which might give a better idea. It also mentions that the only platinum parts of the black watch are the case back and lugs, hence the lower than expected premium.

                            I also saw this profile shot in Hodinkee's article. It does look a bit chunky, but maybe not too bad.

                            Depends if you can live with the ambiguous six or nine, unlike @mclaincausey! 😃

                            I also like the IWC Timezoner in Ceratanium as a travel watch, but that's a shirt-unfriendly 15 mm thick. I got to try one on a few weeks ago.

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                            • JDelageJ
                              JDelage
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined:

                              It's lovely but it does look thick. Since it's quite beyond my means, it's not an issue.

                              I'm not a fan of world timers. I like simple 2-zone GMTs. The best of the modern renditions might be the Explorer II, but there are a lot of options in the 2nd hand market.

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                              • JDelageJ
                                JDelage
                                啓蒙家
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                                On a watch forum, someone already purchased the Tudor BBP, and showed a comparison with their Rolex GMT:

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                                • DansD
                                  Dans
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  Can anyone recommend a solid Pepsi bezel white dial piece ~ $500 or less…For all my summer pool days with my little lady?

                                  Thanks!

                                  I traditionally wear a garmin fenix 5x 24hr a day (w/ a seamaster “dial” ☺️). I just bought a couple of spinnakers to mix it up based on reviews and low cost. Dumas seaspray & nightfall black. Shall see.

                                  Fenix 5x which I lurve:

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                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    Google "Seiko Pepsi" - You'll get loads of hits…..

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                    • mclaincauseyM
                                      mclaincausey
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      I have a Garmin too and love it–nice dial on there @Dans

                                      Timex has a nice-looking Pepsi but I haven't seen a white dial– to Giles' point it looks like Seiko has done white dial Pepsi bezel watches though.

                                      Think it, be it.

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                                      • DansD
                                        Dans
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        Ya I’m finding modified seikos. I’ll keep eval. We’ll see quality of the spinnaker as they have a mid and large case option also. Thanks again.

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                                        • JDelageJ
                                          JDelage
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined:

                                          New watch day… Took me a while to find this specific model. It’s a 250 unit limited edition from a couple years back. The green color is quite vivid, surprisingly enough for GS.

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                                          • GraemeG
                                            Graeme
                                            啓蒙家
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                                            I was in Melbourne last Saturday, and a girl at one of the Omega boutiques said that they would be getting in the prototype of the CK 859 this week. Since I was back in town this week, I figured that I should drop by to take a look.

                                            I can safely say it is gorgeous in the metal and very comfortable to wear. I read somewhere that the silver dial will tarnish and patinate over time, which could be interesting. The negatives are 30 metres of water resistance and I'm not sure if the vintage font is trying a bit too hard.

                                            But it reminds me of my little Tender watch in a good way. I'd consider wearing it on a blue leather strap to pick up on the colour of the hands and printing.

                                            I am very, very tempted. It's one of the nicest releases of the year, and far more interesting than a slightly warmed up Air-King. The secondary market will no doubt disagree with me.

                                            Speaking of Rolex, the boutique also had a pre-production Seamaster Professional "Hulk" with the olive dial. I believe that @JDelage (nice GS!) and @henry_david expressed a passing interest in it.

                                            It's a darker colour than I was expecting. Under the lights in the store it looked almost black from some angles. It's much less in-your-face than the Rolex Hulk.

                                            Lastly, they had the Speedmaster '57. I got to see the burgundy, vintage, and blue iterations.

                                            The burgundy dial reminds me of the late nineties / early noughties Schumacher Speedmasters, albeit a bit more subdued. It's probably a tie between this and the sandwich dial one.

                                            OK, the sandwich dial is full fauxtina! But I like the texture on it.

                                            Meanwhile the blue is almost grey.

                                            Just one thing, though. Does anyone else think that the marker and pips at 12 o'clock look like tiny, male genitalia? 😃

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