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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • JDelageJ
      JDelage
      啓蒙家
      Joined:

      I love the fact that Rolex was crazy enough to launch a lefty. It's going to be just as un-obtainable as the rest, but it's a fun thing.

      I love the Cartier Tank Chinoise.

      For me, the most unexpected new release is the Grand Seiko $350k constant force tourbillon. This is a very rare complication, which I have mostly seen made by super tiny outfits (Romain Gauthier and the like).

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      • mclaincauseyM
        mclaincausey
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        Wow, +/- 0.5s / day on a fully mechanical movement. Is that a record?

        Think it, be it.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • henry_davidH
          henry_david
          Joined:

          GS majorly leveling up there, @JDelage. I'm impressed. I was also sorry to see some colorful dials in the OP line discontinued at the 36mm and 41mm sizes.

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • ChrisC
            Chris
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined:

            The lefty GMT seems unusually gimmicky for Rolex.

            That Oris with the grey dial is fantastic, though I'm disappointed they aren't using their signature red rotor for it. Maybe with the full production models that will change?

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            • JDelageJ
              JDelage
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              Interesting concept watch from Cartier, the "Masse Mysterieuse", where the movement is the rotor… It uses 4 internal sapphire disks to connect the hands, crown, and caliber.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • MotyM
                Moty
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                Very nice article on Hondinkee about Tudor BB Pro

                https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-pro-2?fbclid=IwAR2z8bRQPFM46iCAsF3hjOs4HA3ldxQo2KnqhXdQyvD3bHQcPrNDv1m15X0

                Courage is resistance to fear, it is mastery of fear, not absence of fear

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • JDelageJ
                  JDelage
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  Yeah, that Black Bay Pro looks like a category (GMT) killer. Sub $4k for a true GMT with Tudor's pedigree, it's going to be hard to beat. It's too tall at 14.6mm, but it's very attractive when compared to the new Grand Seiko GMTs at $8k+ (though to be fair the GS are 1/2mm thinner and use Spring Drive). I also love the Explorer II vibe.

                  Speaking of Grand Seiko, they just released 2 small hand-wound pieces in light blue or dark green, sub $5k, which is getting rare for GS. They're available for order now and should ship next month.

                  https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-elegance-sbgw283gsbgw285g

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • mclaincauseyM
                    mclaincausey
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    The Cartier is amazing–something novel, creative, but also attractive.

                    Hearing the Moon Swatches' straps are staining wrists 😃

                    Think it, be it.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      @JDelage:

                      When an article has to show off a Rolex to demonstrate by contrast how poorly finished a movement is, it says a lot…

                      Possibly one of my favourite sentences ever….

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                      • GilesG
                        Giles
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined:

                        @JDelage:

                        Speaking of Grand Seiko, they just released 2 small hand-wound pieces in light blue or dark green, sub $5k, which is getting rare for GS. They're available for order now and should ship next month.

                        https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-elegance-sbgw283gsbgw285g

                        Those are beautiful…..

                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                        • GraemeG
                          Graeme
                          啓蒙家
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                          I like the Cartier Masse Mysterieuse a lot too.

                          The other quirky complication that caught my eye was the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur Dual Time Zone, which has the subdial move around the main dial to indicate the time zone.

                          It's definitely cooler than the Rolex GMT-Master, and cheaper than buying one on the secondary market. 😃

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • JDelageJ
                            JDelage
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined:

                            That Hermes watch is very interesting. I've been looking for a good traveller's GMT and they're actually pretty rare, outside of Rolex & Omega (GS are of course excellent, but quite thick). I wonder how thick that Hermes is. It is not cheap in steel ($23k), but the premium for platinum is very low ($6k more to $29k). I wonder if it's because the Pt model is DLC coated and therefore doesn't require the finicky finish that Pt is known for.

                            I do like how the Paris time zone is shown as "24 FBG", which is for 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the address of the original Hermes boutique.

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                            • mclaincauseyM
                              mclaincausey
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              There’s that fucking 6 again from Hermes. All else is concentrically oriented but that digit. I understand the ambiguity of that particular digit when upside down but it’s clear from the context of the surrounding numerals what it is, and the way they orient it it looks more like a 9 than a 6. Really triggers my OCD.

                              Think it, be it.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GraemeG
                                Graeme
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined:

                                @JDelage there's a video of the Hermès that Revolution posted, which might give a better idea. It also mentions that the only platinum parts of the black watch are the case back and lugs, hence the lower than expected premium.

                                I also saw this profile shot in Hodinkee's article. It does look a bit chunky, but maybe not too bad.

                                Depends if you can live with the ambiguous six or nine, unlike @mclaincausey! 😃

                                I also like the IWC Timezoner in Ceratanium as a travel watch, but that's a shirt-unfriendly 15 mm thick. I got to try one on a few weeks ago.

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                                • JDelageJ
                                  JDelage
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined:

                                  It's lovely but it does look thick. Since it's quite beyond my means, it's not an issue.

                                  I'm not a fan of world timers. I like simple 2-zone GMTs. The best of the modern renditions might be the Explorer II, but there are a lot of options in the 2nd hand market.

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                                  • JDelageJ
                                    JDelage
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    On a watch forum, someone already purchased the Tudor BBP, and showed a comparison with their Rolex GMT:

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • DansD
                                      Dans
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      Can anyone recommend a solid Pepsi bezel white dial piece ~ $500 or less…For all my summer pool days with my little lady?

                                      Thanks!

                                      I traditionally wear a garmin fenix 5x 24hr a day (w/ a seamaster “dial” ☺️). I just bought a couple of spinnakers to mix it up based on reviews and low cost. Dumas seaspray & nightfall black. Shall see.

                                      Fenix 5x which I lurve:

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                                      • GilesG
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined:

                                        Google "Seiko Pepsi" - You'll get loads of hits…..

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                        • mclaincauseyM
                                          mclaincausey
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          I have a Garmin too and love it–nice dial on there @Dans

                                          Timex has a nice-looking Pepsi but I haven't seen a white dial– to Giles' point it looks like Seiko has done white dial Pepsi bezel watches though.

                                          Think it, be it.

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                                          • DansD
                                            Dans
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            Ya I’m finding modified seikos. I’ll keep eval. We’ll see quality of the spinnaker as they have a mid and large case option also. Thanks again.

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