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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      And me, because I have one….

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • GraemeG
        Graeme
        啓蒙家
        Joined:

        Grand Seiko have a number of new models, but ignore them and buy this Diver with the Black Stream dial.

        My favourite TAG Heuer is the Solargraph, which has a solar-powered quartz movement sourced from Citizen and a luminous carbon bezel.

        And Hublot have released a big, black square…

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • MotyM
          Moty
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          Tudor BB Pro

          Courage is resistance to fear, it is mastery of fear, not absence of fear

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • mclaincauseyM
            mclaincausey
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            I like the Tudor ("riveted" bracelet aside), the Oris, and the bezel of the lefty GMT.

            I like what TAG is doing design-wise with their divers these days, even if I feel the solar one looks cheap (which, if it IS cheap, is acceptable).

            It is remarkable how I don't think I've ever seen a Hublot I remotely enjoyed. They're really good at designing watches I hate.

            Think it, be it.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • JDelageJ
              JDelage
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              I love the fact that Rolex was crazy enough to launch a lefty. It's going to be just as un-obtainable as the rest, but it's a fun thing.

              I love the Cartier Tank Chinoise.

              For me, the most unexpected new release is the Grand Seiko $350k constant force tourbillon. This is a very rare complication, which I have mostly seen made by super tiny outfits (Romain Gauthier and the like).

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              • mclaincauseyM
                mclaincausey
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                Wow, +/- 0.5s / day on a fully mechanical movement. Is that a record?

                Think it, be it.

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                • henry_davidH
                  henry_david
                  Joined:

                  GS majorly leveling up there, @JDelage. I'm impressed. I was also sorry to see some colorful dials in the OP line discontinued at the 36mm and 41mm sizes.

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                  • ChrisC
                    Chris
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    The lefty GMT seems unusually gimmicky for Rolex.

                    That Oris with the grey dial is fantastic, though I'm disappointed they aren't using their signature red rotor for it. Maybe with the full production models that will change?

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                    • JDelageJ
                      JDelage
                      啓蒙家
                      Joined:

                      Interesting concept watch from Cartier, the "Masse Mysterieuse", where the movement is the rotor… It uses 4 internal sapphire disks to connect the hands, crown, and caliber.

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                      • MotyM
                        Moty
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        Very nice article on Hondinkee about Tudor BB Pro

                        https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-pro-2?fbclid=IwAR2z8bRQPFM46iCAsF3hjOs4HA3ldxQo2KnqhXdQyvD3bHQcPrNDv1m15X0

                        Courage is resistance to fear, it is mastery of fear, not absence of fear

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                        • JDelageJ
                          JDelage
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined:

                          Yeah, that Black Bay Pro looks like a category (GMT) killer. Sub $4k for a true GMT with Tudor's pedigree, it's going to be hard to beat. It's too tall at 14.6mm, but it's very attractive when compared to the new Grand Seiko GMTs at $8k+ (though to be fair the GS are 1/2mm thinner and use Spring Drive). I also love the Explorer II vibe.

                          Speaking of Grand Seiko, they just released 2 small hand-wound pieces in light blue or dark green, sub $5k, which is getting rare for GS. They're available for order now and should ship next month.

                          https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-elegance-sbgw283gsbgw285g

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • mclaincauseyM
                            mclaincausey
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            The Cartier is amazing–something novel, creative, but also attractive.

                            Hearing the Moon Swatches' straps are staining wrists 😃

                            Think it, be it.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:

                              @JDelage:

                              When an article has to show off a Rolex to demonstrate by contrast how poorly finished a movement is, it says a lot…

                              Possibly one of my favourite sentences ever….

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                @JDelage:

                                Speaking of Grand Seiko, they just released 2 small hand-wound pieces in light blue or dark green, sub $5k, which is getting rare for GS. They're available for order now and should ship next month.

                                https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-elegance-sbgw283gsbgw285g

                                Those are beautiful…..

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • GraemeG
                                  Graeme
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined:

                                  I like the Cartier Masse Mysterieuse a lot too.

                                  The other quirky complication that caught my eye was the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur Dual Time Zone, which has the subdial move around the main dial to indicate the time zone.

                                  It's definitely cooler than the Rolex GMT-Master, and cheaper than buying one on the secondary market. 😃

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                                  • JDelageJ
                                    JDelage
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    That Hermes watch is very interesting. I've been looking for a good traveller's GMT and they're actually pretty rare, outside of Rolex & Omega (GS are of course excellent, but quite thick). I wonder how thick that Hermes is. It is not cheap in steel ($23k), but the premium for platinum is very low ($6k more to $29k). I wonder if it's because the Pt model is DLC coated and therefore doesn't require the finicky finish that Pt is known for.

                                    I do like how the Paris time zone is shown as "24 FBG", which is for 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the address of the original Hermes boutique.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • mclaincauseyM
                                      mclaincausey
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      There’s that fucking 6 again from Hermes. All else is concentrically oriented but that digit. I understand the ambiguity of that particular digit when upside down but it’s clear from the context of the surrounding numerals what it is, and the way they orient it it looks more like a 9 than a 6. Really triggers my OCD.

                                      Think it, be it.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • GraemeG
                                        Graeme
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined:

                                        @JDelage there's a video of the Hermès that Revolution posted, which might give a better idea. It also mentions that the only platinum parts of the black watch are the case back and lugs, hence the lower than expected premium.

                                        I also saw this profile shot in Hodinkee's article. It does look a bit chunky, but maybe not too bad.

                                        Depends if you can live with the ambiguous six or nine, unlike @mclaincausey! 😃

                                        I also like the IWC Timezoner in Ceratanium as a travel watch, but that's a shirt-unfriendly 15 mm thick. I got to try one on a few weeks ago.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • JDelageJ
                                          JDelage
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined:

                                          It's lovely but it does look thick. Since it's quite beyond my means, it's not an issue.

                                          I'm not a fan of world timers. I like simple 2-zone GMTs. The best of the modern renditions might be the Explorer II, but there are a lot of options in the 2nd hand market.

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                                          • JDelageJ
                                            JDelage
                                            啓蒙家
                                            Joined:

                                            On a watch forum, someone already purchased the Tudor BBP, and showed a comparison with their Rolex GMT:

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