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New Iron Heart Website - Live Now - Feedback and Bug Report Here Please!

Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

The Resource Centre
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  • M
    motojobobo
    啓蒙家
    Joined: 22 Aug 2015

    Fascinating IH lore!

    Curious as to how the 633 cut came about. Is it an ‘improved’ 301?

    The 633 is currently my best fitting cut, but I haven’t yet tried a 777. I feel most comfortable with low/mid rise bottoms.

    The journey is the objective.

    last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 12:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • G
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

      The 633 is basically the 634 with more taper from the knee to the cuff….

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 12:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • J
        jordanscollected
        啓蒙家
        Joined: 13 Nov 2018

        Thanks @Giles and as stated above, these are great background stories. I can imagine that it's hard to know ahead of time how many you will sell of something or what will be popular, especially if it's a less traditional fabric, design, color or cut.

        It's easy for me to forget that your team has a focus on business and that we aren't all just here sharing pictures of beer, food, bread, and IH outfits from across the globe.

        world tours:
        888 Fat guy chocolate WT
        Mad Red x2
        Wabidashery

        last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 14:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • G
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

          @jordanscollected:

          It's easy for me to forget that your team has a focus on business and that we aren't all just here sharing pictures of beer, food, bread, and IH outfits from across the globe.

          I'm really pleased that you think this way, and I hope that it is a common feeling amongst the members.  Yes, it is a business, yes it does have to be profitable, and yes we have a duty to try and make it as successful as we can for the sake of Haraki, his business, the workshops, and not least of all for our staff.

          BUT, at the end of the day, I want our customers to enjoy what we make and what we do and if this forum helps do that, then that is another tick in the box.

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 18:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • D
            DrPat
            Iron Heart Deity
            Joined: 9 Oct 2009

            Based on those long answers, it seems like Giles has lots of time to kill these days.  Much different than the abbreviations you used to reply with  😉

            For some reason, Triple Works came across as Iron Heart Lite.  Maybe you should have made it more expensive than main line IH instead of cheaper.

            One of my favorite stories you've told is about when Haraki went to a denim party in the west for the first time and was surprised how many different ways people were wearing Iron Heart.

            last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 18:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • G
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

              I'm very sensibly not allowed into the office at the moment.  We need to ensure the people who actually do something, are protected, as far as we can, from Covid.

              So yes, I have more time on my hands that I used to…..

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 19:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • G
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                @DrPat:

                when Haraki went to a denim party in the west for the first time and was surprised how many different ways people were wearing Iron Heart.

                Yep, I think it was a a SELA party, though it could have been SESF. All these dudes came in wearing Iron Heart in all sorts of different ways.  Haraki just sat, stared and took it all in.  The following day, he said to me, "I never imagined my clothes would ever be worn like the way people were wearing them last night, I love it, I will think differently from now on"…

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 19:06 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • A
                  Appfaff
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined: 11 Oct 2013

                  Ironically @Giles - those photos from the SELA grand opening was what made me buy my first pair of Iron Hearts.

                  last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 19:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • G
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                    Ha…... 😉

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 21:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • A
                      Appfaff
                      Raw and Unwashed
                      Joined: 11 Oct 2013

                      I will admit it was a bad buy.. I bought some
                      “Two sizes too big” 9301 and tried to boil them.

                      Funny enough, a few years ago someone asked for help identifying a pair of super black jeans, and based in the arcs, the forum agreed they were some 9301.

                      When I asked where he found them, he said he purchased them from a guy in Louisiana… I sold mine to a resale shop in New Orleans in 2013.

                      Kinda made me happy to think that one pair of mis-sized jeans help introduce at least 3 people the brand [emoji170]

                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                      last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 22:02 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • G
                        goosehd
                        Mod Squad
                        Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                        I hope that you start posting videos again.  I miss them…(much love and respect)

                        @Giles:

                        I'm very sensibly not allowed into the office at the moment.  We need to ensure the people who actually do something, are protected, as far as we can, from Covid.

                        So yes, I have more time on my hands that I used to…..

                        "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                        last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 22:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                        • ?
                          A Former User
                          Joined:

                          It just never gets old  😃

                          And serendipitous gold  😃

                          last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 22:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • J
                            Jett129
                            見習いボス
                            Joined: 17 Aug 2011

                            I agree never gets old and the improv is priceless. Thanks for posting that.

                            last edited by 19 Nov 2020, 00:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • G
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                              I laugh so much every time I see that…..

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 19 Nov 2020, 06:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • J
                                jordanscollected
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined: 13 Nov 2018

                                right at the end. "I was in the middle of a decent take"…

                                world tours:
                                888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                Mad Red x2
                                Wabidashery

                                last edited by 19 Nov 2020, 14:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • F
                                  Fadez
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined: 9 Nov 2011

                                  What is it like passing the torch to your son and seeing the progression of IHUK?

                                  last edited by 20 Nov 2020, 21:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                    Good question.

                                    I am a complete and utter control freak, and "I'm always right"…

                                    Alex is the only person who will say, "you are wrong", or you are a complete and utter tosser".  That's hard for me to deal with.

                                    But fundamentally, I know that often he is right.  I have struggled to deal with that, and it has caused some real issues between us.

                                    But, in my heart of hearts, I know I need to devolve responsibility to Alex, and I think I am getting better at letting go.

                                    Alex will take IHUK to new levels, levels that I could not, or can't be arsed to go to.

                                    But he has his fathers DNA so I'm comfortable with what and where he is taking us.

                                    Haraki dotes on him, so that makes things a lot easier.

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 20 Nov 2020, 22:02 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • J
                                      jordanscollected
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined: 13 Nov 2018

                                      The business I work for is a small business (10 people) started by the father in the late 70’s and taken over by the son about 5 years ago. I don’t think a bank vault would have been sound proof enough to keep us from hearing the screaming matches coming out of their offices when the transition was happening. I know at least @Giles if you are eventually less present on the forum, we will still find you on the “catch of the day” section.

                                      G: order 1000 pairs of straight leg double knee hickory stripe pants
                                      A: but they want slim tapered denim
                                      G: ORDER THE HICKORY STRIPE!!!

                                      world tours:
                                      888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                      Mad Red x2
                                      Wabidashery

                                      last edited by 21 Nov 2020, 00:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • J
                                        jordanscollected
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined: 13 Nov 2018

                                        1. When you buy Iron Heart from a retailer, how does it differ from buying direct from Iron Heart? Say both places have the exact item in the same price and size, does your team benefit more when we buy direct? I’m assuming SE works different than others since they have some of the same products, and some proprietary as well, correct?

                                        2. How does the Stockist relationship work? I noticed that Canoe Club in Boulder, Co no longer listed you as a stockist. Do they sign a contract with you? What can you share about the way the system works with stockists?

                                        world tours:
                                        888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                        Mad Red x2
                                        Wabidashery

                                        last edited by 26 Nov 2020, 02:27 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • G
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                          Firstly, you need to understand that the margins in this business are not large.  We make tiny margins from our retailer (or wholesale) business, and they make much smaller margins than is normal in retail clothing.  So when we work out costing and pricing, we have to juggle these 3 dynamics 1) Does the wholesale price make it worthwhile for us to sell? 2) Will the retail price be acceptable to the customer? and 3) Will the retailer make enough money at those wholesale and retail prices to make it worth his or her while stocking the product.  Sometimes, it is simply impossible to get a yes to all 3 of those questions, if that happens, we either do not stock the product period, or we do not offer to retailers.

                                          Retailers are a vital part of our business because they spread the love and expand Iron Hearts physical presence.  But as a stand-alone business, it would not be viable, the margins are too small. None of our retailers carries more than 20 or 30% of our SKU's (Lot numbers or unique products), so we see the retailers in some way as fuelling demand for the products we sell online, which is where we make a more acceptable margin. Look at it this way, someone goes into a retailer, buys some IH, falls in love with it, Googles Iron Heart and finds IHUK. The weekend that Mildblend launched Iron Heart, we got 7 direct orders from the Chicago area, the same weekend.  I'm certain that was not a coincidence.

                                          All business outside of Japan comes through IHUK, many retailers have unique products or collaborations, they all come through us.  The majority of retailers like IHUK to sell their collaborations because typically we have a greater reach than them, so they see us selling their product as a way of reaching an audience they could not or would not touch, that is why for instance we carry most of the Pronto collabs.

                                          All retailers are treated the same, we do not have contracts with any of them and they all pay the same price for product nevermind what their volumes are.  I want them to stock and sell Iron Heart because they want to, a signed piece of paper makes no difference.  However if they do things that they should not, like dump stock or have frequent sales which undermine other retailers, they just don't get supplied again.  We're a family and I won't have some black sheep wreck things for everyone.

                                          Finally, I have no contract with Haraki.  It's simply not needed.

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 26 Nov 2020, 08:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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