And for when things get serious

My quality Craigslist dogs, helping me out on Sunday while I brushed some local single-track motorcycle trails.

The IH forum is both an excellent resource and a terrible menace to my spending account. Diving deep on this thread is bad for my wallet.

I posted these in the Mr Lou thread, despite the boots being a custom order Boss:

And since we're talking Wesco, my Guildsman (fka the Alex):

With work style boots, two others that I'm quite fond of, Red Wing Moc, a classic. Admittedly, it's on their narrower last, and I should really be in a wide last, but the CRT leather is tough to resist.

Because I'm in what seems to be a great region for many things, including bootmakers, I made a trek down to Truman Boots for sizing and was able to convince them to build these out of the last bit of Waxy China Blue. They are part of my Bobcat boot collection, with the Bobcats being the mascot of my alma mater.

And on the topic of my Bobcat boots, I have a thing for western wear, and boots in particular. These Ariats from their Futurity series, built in Mexico, also sport my university's colors.

Lastly, for now, my party boots, python belly from Tecovas:

And the one that's likely more fitting here, my '94 900 SuperSport with all manner of cool bits and trick parts

The conditions were all-time this weekend in Oregon's High Desert. Heavy rains blanketed the region the days prior, and with the temps cool, the dirt was perfect. And I do mean perfect. Like all-time best conditions, perfect.

I was on my KTM 350 XC-F, which I have come to call my desert sportbike. It's dumb how good it is in the fast stuff.

I've been busy! I've acquired a few pairs, and there are a few I haven't yet posted.

My new favorite Grailed score is these Brooklyn x Wesco Custom Hendrik Charcoal Roughout boots. Timing lined up with a deep dive on boot fit tips, lasts, and a full send into Grailed. As my IH x Wesco Guildsman boots have been a favorite and fit well, I took a flyer on these. They're a 9.5 D and have only seen a bit of use. They'll take some breaking in as a 9.5 E fits me well.

I had a pair of Chippewa loggers for years that were going to cost most of the way to a new pair of handmade boots. So those went in the bin, and I opted for a pair of hand-made-in-Mexico 8-inch bison loggers from Drew's Boots. Bonus here is their last features a wider toe box and more accommodation in the instep - both things I struggle with. Not only do they fit well out of the box, but they also smell amazing. The shrunken bison is thiccc and will take a beating. These are intended for work, and while they won't be making me money, they will be working the local single track of my favorite motorcycle riding areas.

I'm a bit of a slut for Tecovas, mainly because they offer an EE width and their boots fit me well. These full-quill ostrich boots were my first from the brand. I get comments nearly every time I wear them.

These Fryes have been with me for 14 or 15 years and predate several changes of the brand's ownership, back when they were well-made. I think these were hand-made? Maybe in Mexico, as well? In any case, a reheel and a thin half-sole were added for traction. They're a bit long as I sized them to fit my instep, and they were acquired long before I was aware of all the great, hand-built brands we know and love today. I've often thought of selling, but given the recent brand reputation, I don't know that they're worth anything.

I am super stoked! I was down at SE PDX for boot things, which I'll cover in another thread, and lo and behold, not only did they have this shirt in stock, they had one in a tag L. My oh my, is this fabric cool! Because I'm a total neophyte to this whole sphere, many of these non-denim fabrics are new to me. Kersey is no different. I'd never had it in hand, and despite best efforts, the shirt is so much more striking in person. And it's so soft!!

All of this, I'm sure you all know, but I had to share my enthusiasm.

On the other end of the spectrum...

The rain returned, and riding off-road in it isn't my favorite, so I got out and worked some trail. It gave me a chance to start the break-in of my Drew's Loggers. Forgive me for the top-down shots. I did the best I could...

The dogs were quite interested in what was happening

This is probably the most fun, especially when you take a perfectly good dirt bike, and smaller wheels and slicks on it. Dumb and hilariously fun.

I found another fix worth mentioning.

Knowing that the squeak in both of my lace-ups was coming from the leather insole, I pulled them out and inspected them. The underside of the insole was polished to a nice sheen, as was the midsole in the boot, so it would seem reasonable that these two surfaces rubbing together would start to squeak under heat and friction. It also seems that if these insoles are shorter than he midsole, it gives them room to move back and forth, speeding up the polishing process, and eventually, the squeak. Check that first.

Additionally, if your insoles are showing a nice sheen underneath, do what I did; take a stiff brush and pull that nep back up. After all, these Wesco insoles are roughout on the bottom. Pulling those fibers back up removes that polished sheen and quiets the squeak.

I tested this yesterday with my Brooklyn x Wesco rough-out cap toes, and the squeak in both insoles was gone.

@northsouthdenimguy said in Ship John:

Hopefully I don’t offend anybody with this, but I’m really struggling with the new Denim Townes. This is my first real SJ shirt — everything else I’ve owned from them has been tees and I’m trying to figure out if this fit is just me or if others have noticed the same thing.

Does anybody else find the sleeve width a bit too oversized? For reference, I’ve got 17” biceps but the sleeves still feel like they’re swimming. Most of my 3XL/4XL Iron Heart shirts fit way more dialed-in through the biceps.

I’ve already done some strategic hot soaking on the arms/shoulders, and the arm length + shoulder width are spot-on now. I just wish I could tighten up that bicep area.

I’m debating whether to risk a full hot wash in the machine and toss it in the dryer… worst-case scenario, it’s a 3XL so I figure someone who normally wears a 2XL might grab it off me if I nuke it too far?

Anyone have experience shrinking the biceps specifically on these? Or should I just chalk it up to the cut?

Edit: I believe also did a “eco warm wash” without spin cycle so maybe I start there first and get her spinning maybe that will tighten them up?

I don't have anything specific, unfortunately. Mike has either used patterns from old shirts he likes or tends to cut them how he like them to fit. Some of his early garments were sized weird; tight arm hole openings, long sleeves, etc. They've come around since.

I can't speak on the larger sizes, unfortunately. Your idea to wash and tumble dry might be a bad one. Mike does like his stuff to take a beating... or hold up, if you will. To me, that means washing and drying it.

It might be worth an email to the Ship John shop for their guidance.

@Gianny-Boy said in Ship John:

I have the decade wills, its never been "too heavy" but its def hefty, and thats why I like it so much. I never worn it with a just t shirt so maybe thats why, or the simple addition of the liner but its been a tank for me in keeping in warmth and blocking wind! For me a very versatile piece.

I keep asking when the wagoneer briefcase will make a comeback, and aside from a live months ago saying "soon" i have yet to see or hear anything supporting that. Oh well they probably sick of me lol.

Man... I knew the lining would be the killer update that the Wills needed. Maybe I'll replace it one day.

@dugafola said in Ship John:

@Darth-fader nice! i'm on their mailing list. missed out on the Townes sashiko though...that was a bummmer.

That makes two of us. womp womp

@mecken88 said in Ship John:

@Darth-fader curious to hear how you like it after some wear. If it’s a “all the time jacket” or because of it’s weight just for special occasion

Feels like a lot of Wills owners just have it as a collective piece in the closet, because of its hype and rareness. But would be cool to see and hear about people’s opinions that actually wears it hard and often🫶

It’s a cool jacket, definitely one I have on the wish list for sure!

I have an OG, unlined Wills I picked up a few years and it only sees hard wear.

It's a stiff jacket, and it will and has held up. The newer versions have a liner, which is about the only improvement I'd make on it. As mine sits, it is not a warm jacket. It seemingly has the ability to make you cold almost all the time, which is why I really only wear it when I'm sawing trees, working trails on a wet day, or need some protection. It's sturdy and nearly waterproof. Nearly...

For casual or wear other than my current use, I have other jackets. But it sure is a cool piece!

My quality Craigslist dogs, helping me out on Sunday while I brushed some local single-track motorcycle trails.

The rain returned, and riding off-road in it isn't my favorite, so I got out and worked some trail. It gave me a chance to start the break-in of my Drew's Loggers. Forgive me for the top-down shots. I did the best I could...

The dogs were quite interested in what was happening

1. freepickin
2. Purple UHF western cut

@freepickin was great! Quick to respond, even quicker to ship, the shirt was as described (and fit great!). As a cool bonus, we both lived/live in Bozeman. Small world. Top marks for the transaction!

We all aspire to the fades of @Oaktavia

@Denimhead-0 @northsouthdenimguy Thanks, fellas. I'm stoked to not only find these, but finally figure out a model and size that works. These particular boots will take some work to break and get comfortable, but I know it's worth it. The roughout is just so cool!

@hgering27 said in Ship John:

@Bobcat-Sig after speaking with Chris awhile back I warm soak almost all of my engineers when I get them to help the break in period quicken up. For me I just need the instep to loosen up and it’s always done the trick without any issues. Enjoy the boots man they look great

He recommended the same, stating that their steel shank keeps the boots where they need to be, despite the warm water, and may other influencers (and I use that term loosely) saying that it's a bad idea.

I've never done a warm soak before - I just stubbornly grind it out until the boot breaks in. So my question: what's your process for a warm soak? Just hot water, drain, and wear to dry? Or shove my foot in the warm water? I know; dumb questions, but asking so others don't have to...

I'm stoked to share another Grailed score and to join the Derroll Cool Kids Club. I picked these up recently... and there's a bit of a story.

These things are killer! Kind of a neat thing to have the same leather as my Guildsman (fka The Alex), only flipped inside out. The Grailed seller was a little wobbly when I pressed him on the sole construction. Nonetheless, we found a price where I could take a flyer because on an earlier trip to Wesco, I found a size I could (eventually) squeeze into of their 7500 Engineer. The seller claimed these were a Ship John Derroll boot. And by most markers, it is; the boot leather, the last, the toe shape, buckles, etc. But the soles were off. Mike at Ship John specs his boots with the Vibram V-bar full sole and heel stack pad. These suckers have a Sure-Grip half-sole and maintain the V-bar heel stack pad.

Deep in a rabbit hole - and a question I asked here - I toted them along when I picked up my reworked custom Engineers to ask the man himself at Wesco; Chris Warren. Turns out, these were likely a recraft. Someone bought a pair and had them resoled and either rebuilt or tweaked the uppers. If you look closely, you'll see different wear on the vamp (new) versus the shaft and straps (original).

It's a bit of a frankenboot, but importantly, I can get them on. There will be some break-in, especially with the left boot, but I remain committed!

Two other nuggets I learned: Chris confirmed that hot water in the boots is a-ok with their footwear. He went on to explain that with Wesco, the steel shank will support such heat, whereas a full veg-tan-constructed boot would be susceptible to accelerated collapse. The other is that people buying brand new boots will often send theirs in for a rebuild; be it a different sole, a buildup tweak, or most commonly, a full resize. I had no idea! Crazy.

I'll wear these and either have them reheeled with a Super Grip heel when the time comes or have them completely resoled with the VIbram V-bar.

Bonus nugget: Mike of Ship John specs his engineers with the full sole due to all the rain we enjoy here in the PNWet. With no sole leather exposed, the boots require less maintenance. Though Chris was quick to say that applying boot wax to the sole leather negates that breakdown. The more you know...

Update! And it's a good one.

I chronicled earlier that Wesco was going to rebuild the boots, of sorts. They offered to fit a stiffer heel piece between the leather and relast the upper to a 9 E sole, narrowing the boot and removing some excess leather. I picked them up yesterday. And man... Chris and crew at Wesco do an incredible job!

Not only do the boots fit like a firm handshake, but they have also been completely resoled, and they have even added a different heel stack. A proper heel cup is now present, and while things are a little tight over the instep, it should loosen. There's also a bit of heel slip, but the boot's lower and sole are nearly new, so they will need more break-in. I'm stoked!

I finally have the Mr Lous I always wanted, but could never fit into.