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    rydor

    @rydor

    Haraki san Student

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    The Unwoven Haraki san Student Raw and Unwashed

    Best posts made by rydor

    • RE: IHM-37-GRN - Oiled Whipcord N1 Deck Jacket - Army Green

      So, went an a hunt the last few weeks compare the RMC N-1, the Buzz Rickson's N-1, and this bad boy in XL and XXL (from Fountainhead NY). And definitely came away with the (as expected) realization that the IH oiled N-1 is indeed the best for me. Just more substantial, and the oversized collar just looks great.

      Definitely was the right choice swapping up to an XXL for this (from my old L in the old olive drab). The XL also might have worked, but I could tell it was still going to just be a bit too snug when layering. Just got tired of not being able to wear over a sweater comfortably, and wanted a bit longer of a body length. Maybe not the way everyone wants it, but I wanted more of the Paul Newman N-1 fit, which this is a little closer to now. I just like the fuller fit on this. I'm definitely happy this new model shortened the sleeves a bit, makes this work for me.

      IMG_2127.jpeg

      tumblr_lmjp3bvftn1qj8evso1_400.jpg

      posted in Jackets
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      rydor
    • RE: IHSH-208-IND - Indigo Kersey Western Shirt

      So, I'm in the middle of a "I'm tired of Iron Heart shirts I can't wash and dry" and my old Kersey was one of the most aggressive shrinkers on me. I'm also sizing up a little bit more these days on everything, no more fitted looks. So I picked up a practically brand new (worn 1x) size XXX-Large because of my measurements on shrinkage on my previous size Large. Thought I'd post my wash/dry experience here because I had a lot of success with this one.

      Pre-wash: 24.5" chest, 20" shoulders, 27.5" sleeves.
      Very hot water soak, hot air tumble dry: 23.5" chest, 19" shoulders, 26.25" sleeves.

      It now fits absolutely perfectly for my taste, and I have no worries about future shrinkage on it. For the record, I'm a true 41" chest, I wear shirts in a 16-35, usually a size Medium or Large in most US sizing, usually a 42 or 44 in most Japanese brands. I got this one because the kersey was so aggressive and because I got it cheap enough to experiment on. I'm still thinking XX-Large UHF's are the way for me to go, going forward.

      And yes, I know most people like the "just don't put your shirt in the dryer" lifestyle, but I have 3 kids and I like the way that flannels wear in over time when wash/dried, so that's just not going to be my taste.

      posted in Shirting
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      rydor
    • RE: IH-1955S - 21oz Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo

      It's wild how much demand there was this time around. I grabbed my pair a few years ago, at least a year after the most recent restock, they were mostly sold out but still had no trouble locating a pair from a stockist. If I recall the sentiment around then was "no one wants the 1955" and "no, we definitely won't be offering this in 25oz, it's hard enough to find buyers at 21oz."

      Just shows how much tastes have changed, wider legs and higher rises are back. Maybe the 25oz version has a chance now...

      posted in Bottoms
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      rydor
    • RE: IHM-11 - Whipcord and Alpaca Deck Coat

      I just got the new oiled N-1 deck jacket and came across this IHM-11 post. First thought was "oh man I wish they'd remake this, it looks sooo good and would be a great addition to the N-1." Second one was "oh man, I forgot I have one of these from my grandfather, who served in the US Navy with the Icelandic Defense Force, that's been sitting around needing repairs."

      Thought I'd take some pics. Needs some real TLC which I'm gonna do (button repairs, holes, and zipper fixing). But tried it on and it fits me great. Long story short, this plus the new N-1 I just got make me convinced that this should definitely be run again.

      posted in Jackets
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      rydor
    • RE: IHSH-208-IND - Indigo Kersey Western Shirt

      Wearing mine today. This is easily my favorite IH shirt, in the rapidly expanding collection I have. Like a buttoned corduroy sweatshirt. Can't wait until it's fully faded.

      posted in Shirting
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      rydor
    • RE: IH-1955S-OD - 21oz Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - OD Black

      Adding to the "same size or different" I'll add a little data. I just got my 1955S OD yesterday, and as usual, first thing I did was a hot wash and hot dry cycle inside out. I like to get it a little softer this way and it kicks off the roping effect on the new hem.

      I didn't measure ahead, but after the waist on the 32 measured all the way down to just above a 30" waist. After a day of wearing it, it's all the way back to a 33" waist, and all the measurements are exactly the same as my 1955S non-OD from a few years ago. Or at least within margin. Now, of course, denim stretches with use, and depending on fit, lots of different sizes work. I have other pairs of high-rise Oni denim that fit comfortably at 34" cause of how much that stuff stretches. So people sizing up a size, I think you'll be happy too, both options will work imo.

      posted in Bottoms
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      rydor
    • RE: IHSH-33-IND - 12oz Selvedge Denim Western Shirt - Indigo

      Will these have a restock anytime soon? I'm in the market for an XL or an XXL. I know I can buy from other stockists, but I want to swap to white snaps and the logistics of doing a buy/ship/pimp is a bit more than I want.

      Part of my whole "oh I was wearing shirts too slim, and need bigger shirts" campaign to swap out my wardrobe. FML.

      posted in Shirting
      R
      rydor
    • RE: IHSH-208-IND - Indigo Kersey Western Shirt

      @John-Galt I took my Kersey all the way up in XXXL vs my current UHF of XXL because of how much it shrinks. (I’m a 41” chest, TTS 42, usually medium or large in US sizing). Now, I’m in the “I don’t want a flannel/denim shirt that I can’t put in the dryer” so my sizing is for that and for a vintage fit which is less modern/slim than a lot of people like.

      Point being, I agree with that they shrink a lot. And I always suggest erring on the side of “get these even bigger than you think” and if the shirt “fits” before you throw it in the dryer, size up if you think you might ever throw it in the dryer.

      posted in Shirting
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      rydor
    • RE: IH-1955S-OD - 21oz Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - OD Black

      I decided to grab these to go with my older 1955 non-OD’d pair. Got the 32 from The Shop (since I missed the 32 here), feeling pretty good about it.

      posted in Bottoms
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      rydor
    • RE: IHM-37-ODG - Oiled Whipcord N1 Deck Jacket - Olive Drab Green

      Getting my fitpic game up to speed, with a much better selfie setup with my M11. This N1 has been the best winter jacket I've had, and I'll def say it's more versatile in more temps than you'd think. Was great this morning in the 20's (F) and it's been comfortable up in the mid 50s too, since it's really breathable. It's made my Storm Rider take a bit of a backseat, honestly, but this is just so good.

      posted in Jackets
      R
      rydor

    Latest posts made by rydor

    • RE: IHSH-33-IND - 12oz Selvedge Denim Western Shirt - Indigo

      @CosmoSix5 If you want the copper buttons, the 18oz CPO restocks soon allegedly. Get that! (And then get the 14oz also, which I think works better with the smaller snaps)

      posted in Shirting
      R
      rydor
    • RE: IH-1955S-OD - 21oz Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - OD Black

      Adding to the "same size or different" I'll add a little data. I just got my 1955S OD yesterday, and as usual, first thing I did was a hot wash and hot dry cycle inside out. I like to get it a little softer this way and it kicks off the roping effect on the new hem.

      I didn't measure ahead, but after the waist on the 32 measured all the way down to just above a 30" waist. After a day of wearing it, it's all the way back to a 33" waist, and all the measurements are exactly the same as my 1955S non-OD from a few years ago. Or at least within margin. Now, of course, denim stretches with use, and depending on fit, lots of different sizes work. I have other pairs of high-rise Oni denim that fit comfortably at 34" cause of how much that stuff stretches. So people sizing up a size, I think you'll be happy too, both options will work imo.

      posted in Bottoms
      R
      rydor
    • RE: IH-1955S-OD - 21oz Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - OD Black

      I sized the same as my (old pair) 1955S and I'd say chosing the same size was definitely the way to go for me. Definitely snug in the waist to start, but the right amount for me.

      posted in Bottoms
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      rydor
    • RE: IH-1955S - 21oz Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo

      @Mister_Brue My taste for my 1955S pair (wearing right now) was plain hem with a little break. Looks good with loafers and boots, and in the spring/summer they're still long enough that I can cuff them into high waters.

      posted in Bottoms
      R
      rydor
    • RE: IHSH-208-IND - Indigo Kersey Western Shirt

      @indigostiff I haven't noticed any, but also there's no tightness on it for me to stretch. The chest is comfy, the shoulders aren't tight, and I'm not pulling on the sleeves. My guess is that yes, it'd stretch out somewhat if needed, but I doubt it would stretch all the way back to the pre-dried measurements.

      posted in Shirting
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      rydor
    • RE: IH-1955S - 21oz Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo

      @FlavourFade IMO, the knees won't tell you anything about how denim fits overall, just by being too large (if they're too tight, of course, they're too tight). If the waist and the rise are correct, and you like the fit, they fit. If you don't like the fit, you don't!

      What the knees are telling you, imo, is that you need to adjust your effective inseam if you don't like what's happening. Either double cuff or have them hemmed shorter. In my experience, with wider legs, cuffs that also have stacking create bunching but not enough space to pull the denim down from the knee. And single cuffs, on thicker denim, can create more uneven bunching (which I can see forming on yours).

      That said, the knees also look like they'll be fine. It's more of a straight fit denim. Unless you go for no breaks at all, just letting the denim hang above your foot, you're going to get some bunching at the knee no matter what.

      posted in Bottoms
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      rydor
    • RE: IHSH-208-IND - Indigo Kersey Western Shirt

      @bluemantra

      More like 2 sizes. My XXXL measures 23.5" chest, 26" sleeves, 19" shoulders. That all matches the "as shipped" XL measurements for the shirt. This is with a bunch of dryer cycles so far, some of them with high heat. I don't have what this actual shirt was ahead of time, but it was definitely too big for me, fresh, 2 size shift feels about right.

      As a comparison, my UHF's shrink more like 0.5 size, with similar measurements to my Kersey except for still having slightly longer sleeves and slightly narrower shoulders.

      It's worth noting that with a 41" chest, a 47" flannel is a great fit for my tastes, especially with the way Iron Heart shirts are cut in the front.

      posted in Shirting
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      rydor
    • RE: IHSH-208-IND - Indigo Kersey Western Shirt

      @bluemantra Most of the shrink is in the dryer, not the washer. The first dryer run will get rid of all the shrinkage. Subsequent wears may stretch it a little bit (like with jeans) but nowhere near where it started, and another dryer will shrink it again.

      posted in Shirting
      R
      rydor
    • RE: IHSH-208-IND - Indigo Kersey Western Shirt

      @John-Galt I took my Kersey all the way up in XXXL vs my current UHF of XXL because of how much it shrinks. (I’m a 41” chest, TTS 42, usually medium or large in US sizing). Now, I’m in the “I don’t want a flannel/denim shirt that I can’t put in the dryer” so my sizing is for that and for a vintage fit which is less modern/slim than a lot of people like.

      Point being, I agree with that they shrink a lot. And I always suggest erring on the side of “get these even bigger than you think” and if the shirt “fits” before you throw it in the dryer, size up if you think you might ever throw it in the dryer.

      posted in Shirting
      R
      rydor
    • RE: IH-1955S - 21oz Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo

      @jischwar No, it was $22 for me. I'd prefer included for purchases but ah well.

      posted in Bottoms
      R
      rydor
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