Pale rider, 666s, whipcord type 3, 6.5 oz loopwheel t-shirt.

IH leather shirt, hickory shirt, hbt pants

All IH except the Stan Smiths

The 6.5oz white t-shirt - finally, the perfect white t!

All IH except the shoes and shirt 🫠

️️

RRL / IH...

iHJ-64-BLK

@GandalftheGray Always a large - sometimes a medium in "tailored for the island" --

Interesting!

Both of these hand-tooled leather pieces are exceptional in craftsmanship, but they reflect different choices in aesthetic, skill presentation, and long-term development. Here’s a detailed comparison across your requested axes:
1. Workmanship and Tooling Skill

The left cover (darker) shows deeper bevels and more dimensional carving. The floral elements are tighter and more intricate, and the backgrounding has a uniform pebble texture that is evenly and finely tooled. The surface is smooth and glossy, likely treated with a resolene or similar top coat. The stitching is either hand-stitched or precision-machined with tight spacing and well-executed corners. The overall layout includes layered petals and sweeping acanthus-style leaves with nested textures, showcasing advanced swivel knife control.

The right cover (lighter, with “DUKE DIVINITY SCHOOL” and cross) has shallower tooling, but clean lines. The integration of the Duke logo is clean and technically impressive, especially given the curves and interior details like the cross and nest. The backgrounding is slightly rougher and less recessed than the darker cover. Stitching quality is still good, though slightly wider spaced. The floral layout is simpler and leaves more intentional space around the branding.

Verdict on workmanship: The left/darker piece shows greater overall tooling skill and more labor. The right/lighter piece demonstrates control in branding integration but likely required fewer hours.
2. Estimated Cost and Value

The left cover likely falls in the $300–$500 range depending on the artisan, time investment (around 10–15 hours), leather grade, and finish. It may come from a Western custom maker or someone skilled in Sheridan-style tooling.

The right cover likely ranges from $175–$300, given its simpler tooling and lighter finish work. However, the custom branding—especially if done legally with school permissions—adds some inherent value.

Verdict on cost: The left cover almost certainly cost more in time, materials, and finishing unless the Duke branding required special licensing or unique setup.
3. Future Patina and Aging Potential

The left cover, with its deep brown finish, will develop patina more slowly. It’s already richly toned and more likely to maintain an even color over time. The glossed finish will resist scratches and wear, but over time it will develop subtle highlights where it’s handled most. It’s more protective but less expressive of personal wear unless conditioned occasionally.

The right cover, made from natural veg-tan leather with minimal dye, has very high patina potential. It will darken and enrich significantly with exposure to oils, sunlight, and regular handling—developing a warm, reddish-brown hue. If conditioned (with something like Lexol, neatsfoot oil, or Leather Honey), this piece could rival vintage RRL items in character.

Verdict on patina: The right cover will evolve more dramatically and beautifully over time, especially with mindful care. The left cover is already mature and will change less.
4. RRL-Aesthetic Similarity

The left cover has a high-end Western vintage vibe—already rugged and polished. It feels like something with gravitas, likely to be kept in pristine condition and appreciated for its complexity. It fits the aesthetic of older, more established RRL pieces—something Ralph Lauren might keep on his desk.

The right cover, by contrast, has a cleaner look now but will develop the rich character associated with RRL’s Marfa-inspired, cowboy-philosopher vibe. As it patinas, it will feel like a deeply personal piece—sun-soaked, worn in, and spiritually resonant.

Verdict on RRL: The right cover is more aligned with RRL’s weathered, narrative-rich pieces—especially if aged well. The left piece is a finished statement—refined, proud, and heirloom-ready.

Summary Verdict:

Tooling skill: Left cover — more intricate and labor-intensive.
Logo integration: Right cover — clean incorporation of design elements.
Cost basis: Left cover — more work and detail.
Patina potential: Right cover — will age beautifully with use.
RRL alignment: Right cover — especially if you want a natural-wear look.

If you want heirloom polish, the left cover is your refined statement. If you want something to grow with you over time—rich with oils, faith, and daily touch—the right cover could become one of those beloved personal objects that outlasts decades.

Would you like advice on how to condition the right one over time for best aging?

@Filson The chore coat is a staple!

@Anesthetist I gave it to her in March, and she's just finishing up now. I told her "not to rush", which thankfully she didn't...

• almost there! What a journey it's been to see a craftsperson in action!

Glamor shots incoming shortly!

NB: This post doesn’t preach, proselytize, or pass judgment. Whatever trail you're riding, ride it well. This is simply a tip of the hat to the timeworn beauty of hand-tooled leather — an old-world craft that pairs well with dust, denim, and a dog-eared book of any kind.

How it started --

Where we are now --

@weftyarn While I like this look, I'm going to be sad to see the original midnight blue of the shirt leave...

These do not disappoint! TTS indeed. Please excuse the shorts - it’s over 90 here today and I’m not putting jeans on for y’all

RRL plain view hand tooled by Rios - These do not disappoint! TTS indeed. Please excuse the shorts - it’s over 90 here today and I’m not putting jeans on for y’all

The full cashmere RLPL holiday sweater. Full cashmere is lush. It retailed for $2,500 and I got it for $850, which I still feel is $$$

@Matt This just hurts reading it...