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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

IHSW-34 -12oz Heavyweight Loopwheel Fleece Lined Sweater - Grey Marl or Mint Gre

Cut & Sewn
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  • C
    Chris
    Raw and Unwashed
    Joined: 28 Jun 2010

    Generally speaking I don't even notice one way or the other.  In fact, I had to look at the shirt I'm wearing (Jungmaven Baja pocket tee) to see whether it had seams or not.

    It does, just for the record…

    last edited by 12 May 2019, 20:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • G
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

      When we first made t-shirts, I asked H whether they were loopwheel.  His answer "I have no idea, is it important?"

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 12 May 2019, 22:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • A
        AdamJ
        IHUK Crew
        Joined: 29 Jun 2017

        STOCKISTS

        Iron Heart UK

        AUSTRALIA
        Godspeed Store

        RUSSIA
        Zefear

        The devil is in the detail..

        last edited by 9 Nov 2019, 12:34 11 Sept 2019, 11:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • A
          AdamJ
          IHUK Crew
          Joined: 29 Jun 2017

          Sam wears Medium

          The devil is in the detail..

          last edited by 9 Nov 2019, 12:35 11 Sept 2019, 12:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • A
            AdamJ
            IHUK Crew
            Joined: 29 Jun 2017

            NOW LIVE

            The devil is in the detail..

            last edited by 11 Sept 2019, 15:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • S
              Sam
              Joined: 21 May 2015

              In the wild

              Insta - @braveinthefaceoflasers

              last edited by 11 Sept 2019, 15:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • S
                Stuart.T
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined: 21 Sept 2017

                So to reignite the debate, these are loopwheel knit, then side seems cut and sewn into them?

                I have loopwheel and non-loopwheel shirts and sweats. Full loopwheel are hands down my favoured option.

                The very fact that a garment has additional seems and sewing means that there ar more potential faultlines. Loopwheel definitely hold their shape better over multiple washes.

                As for larger sizes and loopwheel in Japan not able to knit larger sizes, I own loopwheel sweaters by freewheelers and buzz ricksons, and they are larger sizes, without side seems, made in Japan.

                If a brand was not concerned with both quality AND aesthetic, then why have selvedge seems and packets on garments that are deliberately visible in the construction?

                last edited by 11 Sept 2019, 15:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                  @Stuart.T:

                  If a brand was not concerned with both quality AND aesthetic, then why have selvedge seems and packets on garments that are deliberately visible in the construction?

                  @Giles:

                  When we first made t-shirts, I asked H whether they were loopwheel.  His answer "I have no idea, is it important?"

                  H-san hasn’t been overly concerned with selvedge earlier. The important thing was the quality and function of them material. I believe he has said that if he could get the same weaves from a wide loom then he’d be fine with that. I think he realises that his international market might not be, the 301 saga being a case in point.

                  He clearly isn’t fussed by side seams either. There is no doubt about his commitment to quality and aesthetics. He obviously doesn’t consider having side seams to be compromising either. It’s good enough for me.

                  I’ll add that I have had the grey IHSW-34 and own a RMC sweatshirt too. The RMC has no side seams. The ‘34 probably has. I still don’t care one way or another.

                  “Some of those that work forces
                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                  • Virginia Woolf
                  last edited by 9 Nov 2019, 21:42 11 Sept 2019, 16:08 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • C
                    Chris
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined: 28 Jun 2010

                    Tube construction is overrated. I've never had a shirt rip apart at a side seam and I've never noticed any difference in durability or comfort.  If the fabric and construction are good, then whether a shirt has side seams seems irrelevant for any purpose other than affectation. Much like chainstitch runoff.

                    last edited by 11 Sept 2019, 18:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • C
                      Chap
                      見習いボス
                      Joined: 24 May 2016

                      Some aspects regarding loopwheel manufacturing https://merzbschwanen.com/manufacturing-good-originals

                      God has blessed you richly, so get down on your knees and thank him. Don’t forget the less fortunate or God will personally kick your ass. I’d love to do it for him, but I can’t be everywhere. Willie Nelson

                      last edited by 11 Sept 2019, 18:47 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • G
                        gaseousclay
                        Joined: 4 Nov 2016

                        @Chris:

                        Personally, I've never really had a problem with side seams and don't understand the hatred they seem to engender.

                        Me neither. I have several Reigning Champ sweatshirts and they all have ribbed side seams. Never had any issues. As it may have already been pointed out, it’s probably more to do with aesthetics, much like the chain stitch runoff you mentioned or selvedge line

                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                        WTB:
                        IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                        IHSH-19

                        last edited by 11 Sept 2019, 19:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • S
                          Stuart.T
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined: 21 Sept 2017

                          Chainstich run off is completely an asthetical preference. Chainstitching in itself is not.

                          I no longer buy tshirts that have side seems. Even when I buy band tshirts, unless they are tube construction I do not buy them (yes, I do understand that is not the same as loopwheel construction. The process and tensions are completely different).

                          Side seems, even on more expensive brands, lose shape more quickly In my experience. This is the sort of debate I have with fast fashion victims, not with people who buy $300 shirts.

                          Personally, I am just a customer of Iron Heart, and never feel the need to be a sycophant. I am very much a fan of the brand. Its quality and service are second to none, but if there are elements that I don't understand, or disagree with, I'm comfortable doing that.

                          last edited by 11 Sept 2019, 21:11 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • N
                            neph93
                            見習いボス
                            Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                            @Stuart.T:

                            Personally, I am just a customer of Iron Heart, and never feel the need to be a sycophant.

                            I do hope I’m reading this wrong and you’re not  implying that anyone here is a sycophant just because they don’t hold the lack of side seams in the same regard as you do. I would consider that exceptionally short sighted, not to mention rude.

                            “Some of those that work forces
                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                            • Virginia Woolf
                            last edited by 9 Nov 2019, 21:23 11 Sept 2019, 21:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • S
                              Stuart.T
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined: 21 Sept 2017

                              I am not implying that people with differing opinions in this thread are sycophants. I should wait for a counterbalance of views.

                              last edited by 12 Sept 2019, 06:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • N
                                neph93
                                見習いボス
                                Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                Thank you for the clarification @Stuart.T , I appreciate it.

                                “Some of those that work forces
                                Are the same that burn crosses”

                                • Virginia Woolf
                                last edited by 12 Sept 2019, 13:40 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • DionD
                                  Dion
                                  Joined: 15 Mar 2015

                                  I personally prefer loopwheeled stuff without any side seams as it adds to the aesthetics of any item and also to the comfort. Not many do loopwheeled stuff but everyone does side seams, so I'm also not a fan of loopwheeled items that do have side seams like everything else despite being made in the difficult manufacturing process. The fabric might be nice but deprived of one of its biggest benefits: the tubular construction.
                                  I also tried this jumper in grey and although the fit was pretty decent and the fabric nice I wasn't feeling it overall (especially the seams - not only on the sides). It was an XXL and at that time I had another heavy loopwheeled sweater from SDA in XL to compare against. The XL had bigger measurements (chest, length etc.), a softer yet heavier feel and no side seams. EDIT: There was the IHSW-06 once which was made of the heavy Wakayama loopwheeled fleece and it went up to XL with no side seams.
                                  Another point is that there have been already quite heavy 5,5 oz Triple Works T-Shirts that went up to XXL and had no side seams in all sizes (e.g. TWT-1401, TWT-1402 & TWT-1403). Would've loved to have the IHT-1610 without any side seams in every size (although I'm wearing an L that has no side seams in them).

                                  last edited by 9 Dec 2019, 15:33 12 Sept 2019, 15:14 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • AlexA
                                    Alex
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                                    I have always understood the purpose of cutting the loopwheel body and resewing was to alter the fit from the tube it starts out as which is seen as an improvement by many (no Iron Heart) brands

                                    last edited by 12 Sept 2019, 15:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • S
                                      Stuart.T
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined: 21 Sept 2017

                                      @neph93:

                                      Thank you for the clarification @Stuart.T , I appreciate it.

                                      When I'm wrong, I'm wrong, and my comment was way out of line. Sorry folks.

                                      last edited by 12 Sept 2019, 16:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • S
                                        Stuart.T
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined: 21 Sept 2017

                                        I can see that. It would provide the ability to have a slight taper through the body, which is desirable to some for sure. Being a bit more chunky but funky, I can appreciate a full loopwheel sweat, as long as the hem has a bit of elasticity.

                                        last edited by 12 Sept 2019, 16:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • SeulS
                                          Seul
                                          Joined: 24 Nov 2009

                                          All I know is… I need that god-damn minty fresh new'un...

                                          last edited by 12 Sept 2019, 17:28 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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