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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    IHSW-34 -12oz Heavyweight Loopwheel Fleece Lined Sweater - Grey Marl or Mint Gre

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    • D
      Denim Reynholm
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      • neph93N
        neph93
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        If you want the finish garment to have a certain shape to it then the tubular weave needs to be cut and re-sewn. The fabric itself retains the qualities of loop wheeled material despite the side seams.

        Edit: it’s a trade-off at the end of the day. The lack of side seams is aesthetically pleasing (for some) and more comfortable (although that is really only an issue on garments worn close to the body).

        “Some of those that work forces
        Are the same that burn crosses”

        • Virginia Woolf
        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
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          And, proper the knitted tube that loopwheel machines make, max out at a rather small Japanese circumference, so to make larger garments, the tubes have to be cut and sewn…

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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          • D
            Denim Reynholm
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            • ChrisC
              Chris
              Raw and Unwashed
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              Personally, I've never really had a problem with side seams and don't understand the hatred they seem to engender.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • neph93N
                neph93
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                @Chris:

                Personally, I've never really had a problem with side seams and don't understand the hatred they seem to engender.

                Yeah, I have the iht-1610 both with and without and I can’t remember putting the ones without on an and thinking “oh damn the difference is amazing”. In fact I can’t remember ever caring. I sometimes remember to appreciate the look of it, but I suspect it’s all an affectation.

                “Some of those that work forces
                Are the same that burn crosses”

                • Virginia Woolf
                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • ChrisC
                  Chris
                  Raw and Unwashed
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                  Generally speaking I don't even notice one way or the other.  In fact, I had to look at the shirt I'm wearing (Jungmaven Baja pocket tee) to see whether it had seams or not.

                  It does, just for the record…

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • GilesG
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
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                    When we first made t-shirts, I asked H whether they were loopwheel.  His answer "I have no idea, is it important?"

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • AdamJA
                      AdamJ
                      IHUK Crew
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                      STOCKISTS

                      Iron Heart UK

                      AUSTRALIA
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                      Zefear

                      The devil is in the detail..

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                      • AdamJA
                        AdamJ
                        IHUK Crew
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                        Sam wears Medium

                        The devil is in the detail..

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                        • AdamJA
                          AdamJ
                          IHUK Crew
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                          NOW LIVE

                          The devil is in the detail..

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                          • SamS
                            Sam
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                            In the wild

                            Insta - @braveinthefaceoflasers

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                            • Stuart.TS
                              Stuart.T
                              Raw and Unwashed
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                              So to reignite the debate, these are loopwheel knit, then side seems cut and sewn into them?

                              I have loopwheel and non-loopwheel shirts and sweats. Full loopwheel are hands down my favoured option.

                              The very fact that a garment has additional seems and sewing means that there ar more potential faultlines. Loopwheel definitely hold their shape better over multiple washes.

                              As for larger sizes and loopwheel in Japan not able to knit larger sizes, I own loopwheel sweaters by freewheelers and buzz ricksons, and they are larger sizes, without side seems, made in Japan.

                              If a brand was not concerned with both quality AND aesthetic, then why have selvedge seems and packets on garments that are deliberately visible in the construction?

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • neph93N
                                neph93
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                                @Stuart.T:

                                If a brand was not concerned with both quality AND aesthetic, then why have selvedge seems and packets on garments that are deliberately visible in the construction?

                                @Giles:

                                When we first made t-shirts, I asked H whether they were loopwheel.  His answer "I have no idea, is it important?"

                                H-san hasn’t been overly concerned with selvedge earlier. The important thing was the quality and function of them material. I believe he has said that if he could get the same weaves from a wide loom then he’d be fine with that. I think he realises that his international market might not be, the 301 saga being a case in point.

                                He clearly isn’t fussed by side seams either. There is no doubt about his commitment to quality and aesthetics. He obviously doesn’t consider having side seams to be compromising either. It’s good enough for me.

                                I’ll add that I have had the grey IHSW-34 and own a RMC sweatshirt too. The RMC has no side seams. The ‘34 probably has. I still don’t care one way or another.

                                “Some of those that work forces
                                Are the same that burn crosses”

                                • Virginia Woolf
                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • ChrisC
                                  Chris
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  Tube construction is overrated. I've never had a shirt rip apart at a side seam and I've never noticed any difference in durability or comfort.  If the fabric and construction are good, then whether a shirt has side seams seems irrelevant for any purpose other than affectation. Much like chainstitch runoff.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • ChapC
                                    Chap
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                                    Some aspects regarding loopwheel manufacturing https://merzbschwanen.com/manufacturing-good-originals

                                    God has blessed you richly, so get down on your knees and thank him. Don’t forget the less fortunate or God will personally kick your ass. I’d love to do it for him, but I can’t be everywhere. Willie Nelson

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                                    • gaseousclayG
                                      gaseousclay
                                      Joined:

                                      @Chris:

                                      Personally, I've never really had a problem with side seams and don't understand the hatred they seem to engender.

                                      Me neither. I have several Reigning Champ sweatshirts and they all have ribbed side seams. Never had any issues. As it may have already been pointed out, it’s probably more to do with aesthetics, much like the chain stitch runoff you mentioned or selvedge line

                                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                      WTB:
                                      IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                                      IHSH-19

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Stuart.TS
                                        Stuart.T
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        Chainstich run off is completely an asthetical preference. Chainstitching in itself is not.

                                        I no longer buy tshirts that have side seems. Even when I buy band tshirts, unless they are tube construction I do not buy them (yes, I do understand that is not the same as loopwheel construction. The process and tensions are completely different).

                                        Side seems, even on more expensive brands, lose shape more quickly In my experience. This is the sort of debate I have with fast fashion victims, not with people who buy $300 shirts.

                                        Personally, I am just a customer of Iron Heart, and never feel the need to be a sycophant. I am very much a fan of the brand. Its quality and service are second to none, but if there are elements that I don't understand, or disagree with, I'm comfortable doing that.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • neph93N
                                          neph93
                                          見習いボス
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                                          @Stuart.T:

                                          Personally, I am just a customer of Iron Heart, and never feel the need to be a sycophant.

                                          I do hope I’m reading this wrong and you’re not  implying that anyone here is a sycophant just because they don’t hold the lack of side seams in the same regard as you do. I would consider that exceptionally short sighted, not to mention rude.

                                          “Some of those that work forces
                                          Are the same that burn crosses”

                                          • Virginia Woolf
                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • Stuart.TS
                                            Stuart.T
                                            Raw and Unwashed
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                                            I am not implying that people with differing opinions in this thread are sycophants. I should wait for a counterbalance of views.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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