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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Time For a New Jeans Cut….

    Future and Planned Products
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    • DrBabyhorseD
      DrBabyhorse
      Joined:

      @Appfaff:

      Since I've been feeling nostalgic these days, I've been lusting after the perfect vintage fit. 1947 top block, 1966 thigh to knee and classic 505 knee down. This sounds like it might be just that. Hoping the vintage 18oz denim does well and we might see this cut in a classic looking/feeling denim.

      In my mind, here is what a size 36 would look like:
      Waist 36-37
      front Rise: 12
      Back Rise: 16.5
      Thigh: 13.5
      Knee 9.5
      Hem: 8.25 @ 36" inseam and 8.5 at 34' inseam.

      Essentially it's a 666 with a larger thigh and more taper from knee to hem… but I think that's what you guys are getting at anyways haha

      Since we are similar sizes you might want to check out the 666 uhr. It looks like it is right on the money for you except for the hem. Mine came a tad under 9, which is close to your specifications.  I definitely think I found the perfect jean for me.

      Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • AppfaffA
        Appfaff
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        Thanks @DrBabyhorse - the measures do look great for the new UHR. I had the one ones in the 666 and loved them.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • AppfaffA
          Appfaff
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          @Dion:

          Just my two cents but these measurements look way too close to the 555.

          My size 36 555-02 currently measure:
          Waist: 38.5
          Front Rise: 11.75
          Back Rise: 17.25
          Thigh: 13.25
          Knee: 8.6
          Leg: 8' at 33"

          I think the hardest part of these is the knee. 8.6 is after stretch, which means post wash they are about 8.3. that's a really drastic taper from thigh to knee and only about a .5' taper from knee to my hem, although the original 36" hem was closer to 7.8.  If you take the knee to a 9' (adding essentially 1.3' total space pre-stretch) you get a much roomier thigh overall.

          Your plans sound great @Giles - excited to see them in the future.

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          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            New jeans cut.

            Higher rise than IH-634 - particularly at the back.

            More taper from the knee than the 634.

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • Jordan23J
              Jordan23
              Joined:

              @neph93:

              Jepp. Anything between Appfaff's and Giles measurements would be sweet. Perhaps closer to 13.5 in the thigh for me.

              +1 from here

              Need at least 13 in size 34.

              Enjoy ya addiction!

              AE

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                I hear you…...

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • AppfaffA
                  Appfaff
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  lol I wondered how long we could derail that other thread haha

                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • mikebarhootM
                    mikebarhoot
                    Iron Heart Deity
                    Joined:

                    @Megatron1505:

                    Alcohol fuelled intelligent design  😉

                    AFID TECHNOLOGY!  I like it!

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • riffblaster generalR
                      riffblaster general
                      Raw and Unwashed
                      Joined:

                      @Giles:

                      1. If we want to have selvedge side seams and a proper cut, there is a limit to the taper that can be given to the jean.  To have selvedge side seams, the outseam HAS to be parallel, so you have to take the taper off the inseam, take too much and the cut is a joke.  One of the reasons that the IH-634 is a better cut in many ways than the IH-634S, is that we don't have to worry about a parallel outseam.
                      2. We could use selvedge denim and dispense with the selvedge ID showing on the outseam (like the IH-461S), but that is probably a compromise too far.

                      I totally don't care about selvedge showing.

                      PUT DOWN THAT STARBUCKS, PICK UP THAT GNARBUCKS!!

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • SeulS
                        Seul
                        Joined:

                        @riffblaster:

                        I totally don't care about selvedge showing.

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • neph93N
                          neph93
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          ^ me neither. But judging by SE's experience with the first run of the 301's a few years ago, enough people do so, that it may affect the financial viability of the cut.

                          «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                          We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                          • Dame Vera Lynn
                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • manufc10M
                            manufc10
                            Iron Heart Deity
                            Joined:

                            same here.  The selvedge ID not showing is not a deal breaker for me.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • spitfiredealerS
                              spitfiredealer
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              Is for me. Wouldn't dream of dropping big bucks on some without it. But then I am
                              Someone who likes all the extra details.

                              Giles those measurements for a 36 only have 0.5 taper from the knee to hem? Isn't that pretty much what the 634 have?

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • B
                                browniemcghee
                                Joined:

                                Selvedge ID doesn't really matter to me, as long as the denim and construction is IH quality.  I do think that it is a big enough deal for enough people that it should probably be kept for sales sake. I want this cut to sell well so it will be made available in the new 18oz. Vintage and XHS…

                                Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • GilesG
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined:

                                  Whoops.  I have tweaked the measurements….

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    @spitfiredealer:

                                    Is for me. Wouldn't dream of dropping big bucks on some without it. But then I am
                                    Someone who likes all the extra details.

                                    You simply can't have your cake and eat it.  It is impossible to give stacks of taper and retain the selvedge ID as per my explanation above….

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • DionD
                                      Dion
                                      Joined:

                                      Knee and thigh measurements look way better now. What hem measurement would have a tag 38 then?

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • GilesG
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined:

                                        I don't know.  I have a target, but not sure if it is technically possible…..

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • DionD
                                          Dion
                                          Joined:

                                          I measured the hem of my 633SII and it is ~ 8,5 (tag 38) which looks very good and clean, I must admit. So I am hoping for a similiar width.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • GilesG
                                            Giles
                                            IHUK Crew
                                            Joined:

                                            Yes, but the knee and thigh will be larger on the new cut, so my concern is whether we can create that much taper and retain the selvedge ID (which is the immovable feast)

                                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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