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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Time For a New Jeans Cut….

    Future and Planned Products
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    • neph93N
      neph93
      見習いボス
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      @spitfiredealer:

      Right so all I need to do to get the Sherpa lined trucker jacket made is get Giles drunk! Why didn't someone tell me this before!

      Evidence suggests you may have to be ginger too.

      «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
      We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

      • Dame Vera Lynn
      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • spitfiredealerS
        spitfiredealer
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        I don't want it that bad….

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • Megatron1505M
          Megatron1505
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          It was G's idea, I just provided some input and a sounding board for the constant swearing and abuse  😉

          Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • neph93N
            neph93
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            ^ I don't care who came up with it, it's a bloody great idea (I tabled it on the forum a few weeks ago and can't have been the first). The fact that it's conception was a beer-fueled NYE/Gav's 40th will mean that should the jeans get made that evening will become legen…..

            «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
            We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

            • Dame Vera Lynn
            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • neph93N
              neph93
              見習いボス
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              ….dary.

              «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
              We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

              • Dame Vera Lynn
              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Megatron1505M
                Megatron1505
                見習いボス
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                Man, I loved that show  😉

                Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • riffblaster generalR
                  riffblaster general
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  @Giles:

                  New jeans cut.

                  Higher rise than IH-634 - particularly at the back.

                  More taper from the knee than the 634.

                  this interests me greatly

                  PUT DOWN THAT STARBUCKS, PICK UP THAT GNARBUCKS!!

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Max PowerM
                    Max Power
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    Great news regarding the new cut. There has been quite an amount of suggestions / wishes for a such cut so I hope it will sell well and offer a lot of denims over time. I would assume the 21oz will be the first run…?

                    @elclintor:

                    > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • neph93N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
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                      @Max:

                      There has been quite an amount of suggestions / wishes for a such cut so I hope it will sell well and offer a lot of denims over time.

                      Agreed! Fingers crossed for retailer interest also.

                      @Max:

                      I would assume the 21oz will be the first run…?

                      I hope so. I haven't had indigo 21oz in rotation for over a year and I miss it.

                      So excited about this.

                      «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                      We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                      • Dame Vera Lynn
                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • GilesG
                        Giles
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined:

                        @Max:

                        21oz will be the first run…?

                        Yep

                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                        • neph93N
                          neph93
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          @Giles:

                          @Max:

                          21oz will be the first run…?

                          Yep

                          Obviously this is right at the beginning of a long process, but based on previous experience (777's) what's the ballpark timeframe from conception to realisation? 6 months, a year?

                          «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                          We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                          • Dame Vera Lynn
                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • spitfiredealerS
                            spitfiredealer
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            Hope there is enough of a taper left when they get hemmed to say 32-34 leg.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:
                              1. If we want to have selvedge side seams and a proper cut, there is a limit to the taper that can be given to the jean.  To have selvedge side seams, the outseam HAS to be parallel, so you have to take the taper off the inseam, take too much and the cut is a joke.  One of the reasons that the IH-634 is a better cut in many ways than the IH-634S, is that we don't have to worry about a parallel outseam.
                              2. We could use selvedge denim and dispense with the selvedge ID showing on the outseam (like the IH-461S), but that is probably a compromise too far.

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                              • Max PowerM
                                Max Power
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                Would it be possible to end at 36" inseam after shrinkage? I am pretty certain not many will need an longer inseam. 38" or above are a bit much if you want a small leg opening at the (I think) most pouplar 32-26" length.

                                @elclintor:

                                > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • GilesG
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined:

                                  Yet to be decided, but anyone who wants over 36 is immediately out of luck if we make it 36.  And it will make no difference to the hem width at 36 whether we make to 36 or 38.

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • neph93N
                                    neph93
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                                    I think the key thing here, that'll make this work, is the tapering from above the knee. If you consider the difference between the 555 and 666 cuts, I know I can buy a 666 with a 12.8" thigh and avoid sausage leg because the drop from the top of the thigh is relatively straight and the taper marginal. 12.8" in the 555 is a no go because the the taper starts early and I have thighs like Yamaha engine block. So the point with these jeans (I hope), is to have a properly fitting top block giving way to generous thighs that then taper early giving us big boys a bit of wiggle room in a more flattering silhouette. For us short inseam types any taper is going to help, and be better than living with the big flappy openings that I end up having on my 666 and BB's.

                                    The point is this, we're not going to get (nor I believe, do we want) a W36 jean with a 13.5" thigh that narrows to a 7,8" hem. It's going to be some antifit, carrot-shaped nightmare cut. But we do want the silhouette of a tapered fit. The trade off will be a hem that is less wide than on a pair of 634's but not as narrow as 555's/777's.

                                    «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                    We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                    • Dame Vera Lynn
                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • spitfiredealerS
                                      spitfiredealer
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      So if the 634 has 0.5" inch taper from knee to hem are you thinking this cut would have a full inch or more?

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • GilesG
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined:

                                        It'll depend on tag size.  I'm hoping for an inch on the smaller tag sizes and more than that on the larger tag sizes, but it is completely dependent upon what can be achieved given the constraints I articulated above.  For that, I need Tom-sans help…..

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                        • pillowPANTSP
                                          pillowPANTS
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                                          This sounds awesome!! Thanks G&G music factory [emoji23]

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • Max PowerM
                                            Max Power
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                                            Joined:

                                            One of my IMO best fits was the 634SB in size 32, which had a leg opening of around 8,5". Sadly I need to size up to 34-36 these days, but just for the thighs and waist, making the rest of the leg look way to wide. So, I would be totally happy with a leg opening that is around 1" smaller than the current 634 offers. A carrot fit that tapers heavily like the FH 3012 looks somewhat off.

                                            @elclintor:

                                            > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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