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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Time For a New Jeans Cut….

    Future and Planned Products
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    • spitfiredealerS
      spitfiredealer
      Raw and Unwashed
      Joined:

      I don't want it that bad….

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • Megatron1505M
        Megatron1505
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        It was G's idea, I just provided some input and a sounding board for the constant swearing and abuse  😉

        Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • neph93N
          neph93
          見習いボス
          Joined:

          ^ I don't care who came up with it, it's a bloody great idea (I tabled it on the forum a few weeks ago and can't have been the first). The fact that it's conception was a beer-fueled NYE/Gav's 40th will mean that should the jeans get made that evening will become legen…..

          “Some of those that work forces
          Are the same that burn crosses”

          • Virginia Woolf
          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • neph93N
            neph93
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            ….dary.

            “Some of those that work forces
            Are the same that burn crosses”

            • Virginia Woolf
            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • Megatron1505M
              Megatron1505
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              Man, I loved that show  😉

              Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • riffblaster generalR
                riffblaster general
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                @Giles:

                New jeans cut.

                Higher rise than IH-634 - particularly at the back.

                More taper from the knee than the 634.

                this interests me greatly

                PUT DOWN THAT STARBUCKS, PICK UP THAT GNARBUCKS!!

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Max PowerM
                  Max Power
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  Great news regarding the new cut. There has been quite an amount of suggestions / wishes for a such cut so I hope it will sell well and offer a lot of denims over time. I would assume the 21oz will be the first run…?

                  @elclintor:

                  > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • neph93N
                    neph93
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    @Max:

                    There has been quite an amount of suggestions / wishes for a such cut so I hope it will sell well and offer a lot of denims over time.

                    Agreed! Fingers crossed for retailer interest also.

                    @Max:

                    I would assume the 21oz will be the first run…?

                    I hope so. I haven't had indigo 21oz in rotation for over a year and I miss it.

                    So excited about this.

                    “Some of those that work forces
                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                    • Virginia Woolf
                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      @Max:

                      21oz will be the first run…?

                      Yep

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • neph93N
                        neph93
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        @Giles:

                        @Max:

                        21oz will be the first run…?

                        Yep

                        Obviously this is right at the beginning of a long process, but based on previous experience (777's) what's the ballpark timeframe from conception to realisation? 6 months, a year?

                        “Some of those that work forces
                        Are the same that burn crosses”

                        • Virginia Woolf
                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • spitfiredealerS
                          spitfiredealer
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          Hope there is enough of a taper left when they get hemmed to say 32-34 leg.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • GilesG
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined:
                            1. If we want to have selvedge side seams and a proper cut, there is a limit to the taper that can be given to the jean.  To have selvedge side seams, the outseam HAS to be parallel, so you have to take the taper off the inseam, take too much and the cut is a joke.  One of the reasons that the IH-634 is a better cut in many ways than the IH-634S, is that we don't have to worry about a parallel outseam.
                            2. We could use selvedge denim and dispense with the selvedge ID showing on the outseam (like the IH-461S), but that is probably a compromise too far.

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • Max PowerM
                              Max Power
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              Would it be possible to end at 36" inseam after shrinkage? I am pretty certain not many will need an longer inseam. 38" or above are a bit much if you want a small leg opening at the (I think) most pouplar 32-26" length.

                              @elclintor:

                              > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                Yet to be decided, but anyone who wants over 36 is immediately out of luck if we make it 36.  And it will make no difference to the hem width at 36 whether we make to 36 or 38.

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • neph93N
                                  neph93
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined:

                                  I think the key thing here, that'll make this work, is the tapering from above the knee. If you consider the difference between the 555 and 666 cuts, I know I can buy a 666 with a 12.8" thigh and avoid sausage leg because the drop from the top of the thigh is relatively straight and the taper marginal. 12.8" in the 555 is a no go because the the taper starts early and I have thighs like Yamaha engine block. So the point with these jeans (I hope), is to have a properly fitting top block giving way to generous thighs that then taper early giving us big boys a bit of wiggle room in a more flattering silhouette. For us short inseam types any taper is going to help, and be better than living with the big flappy openings that I end up having on my 666 and BB's.

                                  The point is this, we're not going to get (nor I believe, do we want) a W36 jean with a 13.5" thigh that narrows to a 7,8" hem. It's going to be some antifit, carrot-shaped nightmare cut. But we do want the silhouette of a tapered fit. The trade off will be a hem that is less wide than on a pair of 634's but not as narrow as 555's/777's.

                                  “Some of those that work forces
                                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                                  • Virginia Woolf
                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • spitfiredealerS
                                    spitfiredealer
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    So if the 634 has 0.5" inch taper from knee to hem are you thinking this cut would have a full inch or more?

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      It'll depend on tag size.  I'm hoping for an inch on the smaller tag sizes and more than that on the larger tag sizes, but it is completely dependent upon what can be achieved given the constraints I articulated above.  For that, I need Tom-sans help…..

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • pillowPANTSP
                                        pillowPANTS
                                        Joined:

                                        This sounds awesome!! Thanks G&G music factory [emoji23]

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • Max PowerM
                                          Max Power
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          Joined:

                                          One of my IMO best fits was the 634SB in size 32, which had a leg opening of around 8,5". Sadly I need to size up to 34-36 these days, but just for the thighs and waist, making the rest of the leg look way to wide. So, I would be totally happy with a leg opening that is around 1" smaller than the current 634 offers. A carrot fit that tapers heavily like the FH 3012 looks somewhat off.

                                          @elclintor:

                                          > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • neph93N
                                            neph93
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            ^ agreed.

                                            “Some of those that work forces
                                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                                            • Virginia Woolf
                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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