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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Time For a New Jeans Cut….

    Future and Planned Products
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    • spitfiredealerS
      spitfiredealer
      Raw and Unwashed
      Joined:

      Right so all I need to do to get the Sherpa lined trucker jacket made is get Giles drunk! Why didn't someone tell me this before!

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • neph93N
        neph93
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        @spitfiredealer:

        Right so all I need to do to get the Sherpa lined trucker jacket made is get Giles drunk! Why didn't someone tell me this before!

        Evidence suggests you may have to be ginger too.

        “Some of those that work forces
        Are the same that burn crosses”

        • Virginia Woolf
        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • spitfiredealerS
          spitfiredealer
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          I don't want it that bad….

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Megatron1505M
            Megatron1505
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            It was G's idea, I just provided some input and a sounding board for the constant swearing and abuse  😉

            Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • neph93N
              neph93
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              ^ I don't care who came up with it, it's a bloody great idea (I tabled it on the forum a few weeks ago and can't have been the first). The fact that it's conception was a beer-fueled NYE/Gav's 40th will mean that should the jeans get made that evening will become legen…..

              “Some of those that work forces
              Are the same that burn crosses”

              • Virginia Woolf
              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • neph93N
                neph93
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                ….dary.

                “Some of those that work forces
                Are the same that burn crosses”

                • Virginia Woolf
                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Megatron1505M
                  Megatron1505
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  Man, I loved that show  😉

                  Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • riffblaster generalR
                    riffblaster general
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    @Giles:

                    New jeans cut.

                    Higher rise than IH-634 - particularly at the back.

                    More taper from the knee than the 634.

                    this interests me greatly

                    PUT DOWN THAT STARBUCKS, PICK UP THAT GNARBUCKS!!

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • Max PowerM
                      Max Power
                      Raw and Unwashed
                      Joined:

                      Great news regarding the new cut. There has been quite an amount of suggestions / wishes for a such cut so I hope it will sell well and offer a lot of denims over time. I would assume the 21oz will be the first run…?

                      @elclintor:

                      > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • neph93N
                        neph93
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        @Max:

                        There has been quite an amount of suggestions / wishes for a such cut so I hope it will sell well and offer a lot of denims over time.

                        Agreed! Fingers crossed for retailer interest also.

                        @Max:

                        I would assume the 21oz will be the first run…?

                        I hope so. I haven't had indigo 21oz in rotation for over a year and I miss it.

                        So excited about this.

                        “Some of those that work forces
                        Are the same that burn crosses”

                        • Virginia Woolf
                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          @Max:

                          21oz will be the first run…?

                          Yep

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • neph93N
                            neph93
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            @Giles:

                            @Max:

                            21oz will be the first run…?

                            Yep

                            Obviously this is right at the beginning of a long process, but based on previous experience (777's) what's the ballpark timeframe from conception to realisation? 6 months, a year?

                            “Some of those that work forces
                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                            • Virginia Woolf
                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • spitfiredealerS
                              spitfiredealer
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              Hope there is enough of a taper left when they get hemmed to say 32-34 leg.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:
                                1. If we want to have selvedge side seams and a proper cut, there is a limit to the taper that can be given to the jean.  To have selvedge side seams, the outseam HAS to be parallel, so you have to take the taper off the inseam, take too much and the cut is a joke.  One of the reasons that the IH-634 is a better cut in many ways than the IH-634S, is that we don't have to worry about a parallel outseam.
                                2. We could use selvedge denim and dispense with the selvedge ID showing on the outseam (like the IH-461S), but that is probably a compromise too far.

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • Max PowerM
                                  Max Power
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  Would it be possible to end at 36" inseam after shrinkage? I am pretty certain not many will need an longer inseam. 38" or above are a bit much if you want a small leg opening at the (I think) most pouplar 32-26" length.

                                  @elclintor:

                                  > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    Yet to be decided, but anyone who wants over 36 is immediately out of luck if we make it 36.  And it will make no difference to the hem width at 36 whether we make to 36 or 38.

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • neph93N
                                      neph93
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      I think the key thing here, that'll make this work, is the tapering from above the knee. If you consider the difference between the 555 and 666 cuts, I know I can buy a 666 with a 12.8" thigh and avoid sausage leg because the drop from the top of the thigh is relatively straight and the taper marginal. 12.8" in the 555 is a no go because the the taper starts early and I have thighs like Yamaha engine block. So the point with these jeans (I hope), is to have a properly fitting top block giving way to generous thighs that then taper early giving us big boys a bit of wiggle room in a more flattering silhouette. For us short inseam types any taper is going to help, and be better than living with the big flappy openings that I end up having on my 666 and BB's.

                                      The point is this, we're not going to get (nor I believe, do we want) a W36 jean with a 13.5" thigh that narrows to a 7,8" hem. It's going to be some antifit, carrot-shaped nightmare cut. But we do want the silhouette of a tapered fit. The trade off will be a hem that is less wide than on a pair of 634's but not as narrow as 555's/777's.

                                      “Some of those that work forces
                                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                                      • Virginia Woolf
                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • spitfiredealerS
                                        spitfiredealer
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        So if the 634 has 0.5" inch taper from knee to hem are you thinking this cut would have a full inch or more?

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • GilesG
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined:

                                          It'll depend on tag size.  I'm hoping for an inch on the smaller tag sizes and more than that on the larger tag sizes, but it is completely dependent upon what can be achieved given the constraints I articulated above.  For that, I need Tom-sans help…..

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • pillowPANTSP
                                            pillowPANTS
                                            Joined:

                                            This sounds awesome!! Thanks G&G music factory [emoji23]

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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