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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Time For a New Jeans Cut….

    Future and Planned Products
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    • neph93N
      neph93
      見習いボス
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      ….dary.

      “Some of those that work forces
      Are the same that burn crosses”

      • Virginia Woolf
      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • Megatron1505M
        Megatron1505
        見習いボス
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        Man, I loved that show  😉

        Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • riffblaster generalR
          riffblaster general
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          @Giles:

          New jeans cut.

          Higher rise than IH-634 - particularly at the back.

          More taper from the knee than the 634.

          this interests me greatly

          PUT DOWN THAT STARBUCKS, PICK UP THAT GNARBUCKS!!

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Max PowerM
            Max Power
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined:

            Great news regarding the new cut. There has been quite an amount of suggestions / wishes for a such cut so I hope it will sell well and offer a lot of denims over time. I would assume the 21oz will be the first run…?

            @elclintor:

            > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • neph93N
              neph93
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              @Max:

              There has been quite an amount of suggestions / wishes for a such cut so I hope it will sell well and offer a lot of denims over time.

              Agreed! Fingers crossed for retailer interest also.

              @Max:

              I would assume the 21oz will be the first run…?

              I hope so. I haven't had indigo 21oz in rotation for over a year and I miss it.

              So excited about this.

              “Some of those that work forces
              Are the same that burn crosses”

              • Virginia Woolf
              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                @Max:

                21oz will be the first run…?

                Yep

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • neph93N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  @Giles:

                  @Max:

                  21oz will be the first run…?

                  Yep

                  Obviously this is right at the beginning of a long process, but based on previous experience (777's) what's the ballpark timeframe from conception to realisation? 6 months, a year?

                  “Some of those that work forces
                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                  • Virginia Woolf
                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • spitfiredealerS
                    spitfiredealer
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    Hope there is enough of a taper left when they get hemmed to say 32-34 leg.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:
                      1. If we want to have selvedge side seams and a proper cut, there is a limit to the taper that can be given to the jean.  To have selvedge side seams, the outseam HAS to be parallel, so you have to take the taper off the inseam, take too much and the cut is a joke.  One of the reasons that the IH-634 is a better cut in many ways than the IH-634S, is that we don't have to worry about a parallel outseam.
                      2. We could use selvedge denim and dispense with the selvedge ID showing on the outseam (like the IH-461S), but that is probably a compromise too far.

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • Max PowerM
                        Max Power
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        Would it be possible to end at 36" inseam after shrinkage? I am pretty certain not many will need an longer inseam. 38" or above are a bit much if you want a small leg opening at the (I think) most pouplar 32-26" length.

                        @elclintor:

                        > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          Yet to be decided, but anyone who wants over 36 is immediately out of luck if we make it 36.  And it will make no difference to the hem width at 36 whether we make to 36 or 38.

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • neph93N
                            neph93
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            I think the key thing here, that'll make this work, is the tapering from above the knee. If you consider the difference between the 555 and 666 cuts, I know I can buy a 666 with a 12.8" thigh and avoid sausage leg because the drop from the top of the thigh is relatively straight and the taper marginal. 12.8" in the 555 is a no go because the the taper starts early and I have thighs like Yamaha engine block. So the point with these jeans (I hope), is to have a properly fitting top block giving way to generous thighs that then taper early giving us big boys a bit of wiggle room in a more flattering silhouette. For us short inseam types any taper is going to help, and be better than living with the big flappy openings that I end up having on my 666 and BB's.

                            The point is this, we're not going to get (nor I believe, do we want) a W36 jean with a 13.5" thigh that narrows to a 7,8" hem. It's going to be some antifit, carrot-shaped nightmare cut. But we do want the silhouette of a tapered fit. The trade off will be a hem that is less wide than on a pair of 634's but not as narrow as 555's/777's.

                            “Some of those that work forces
                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                            • Virginia Woolf
                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • spitfiredealerS
                              spitfiredealer
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              So if the 634 has 0.5" inch taper from knee to hem are you thinking this cut would have a full inch or more?

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                It'll depend on tag size.  I'm hoping for an inch on the smaller tag sizes and more than that on the larger tag sizes, but it is completely dependent upon what can be achieved given the constraints I articulated above.  For that, I need Tom-sans help…..

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • pillowPANTSP
                                  pillowPANTS
                                  Joined:

                                  This sounds awesome!! Thanks G&G music factory [emoji23]

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • Max PowerM
                                    Max Power
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    One of my IMO best fits was the 634SB in size 32, which had a leg opening of around 8,5". Sadly I need to size up to 34-36 these days, but just for the thighs and waist, making the rest of the leg look way to wide. So, I would be totally happy with a leg opening that is around 1" smaller than the current 634 offers. A carrot fit that tapers heavily like the FH 3012 looks somewhat off.

                                    @elclintor:

                                    > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • neph93N
                                      neph93
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      ^ agreed.

                                      “Some of those that work forces
                                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                                      • Virginia Woolf
                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • spitfiredealerS
                                        spitfiredealer
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        I just got the 634SB in a 32 Max. They are currently being hemmed and tapered to a 8" hem. Had the knee taken in a little too. I find the wider knee adds to the flair of the lower leg no matter what the hem is.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • hajdukH
                                          hajduk
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined:

                                          The 634SV pattern was a quasi perfect one. Rise…tighs...hem...with a classic minus 0,6" from the knee meas. to the hem. A BB with shorter rise in a way.
                                          Sounds at we will get it with this new pattern...[emoji7]

                                          Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

                                          "Ignorance, allied with power, is the most ferocious enemy justice can have" James Baldwin.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • AppfaffA
                                            Appfaff
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            Since I've been feeling nostalgic these days, I've been lusting after the perfect vintage fit. 1947 top block, 1966 thigh to knee and classic 505 knee down. This sounds like it might be just that. Hoping the vintage 18oz denim does well and we might see this cut in a classic looking/feeling denim.

                                            In my mind, here is what a size 36 would look like:
                                            Waist 36-37
                                            front Rise: 12
                                            Back Rise: 16.5
                                            Thigh: 13.5
                                            Knee 9.5
                                            Hem: 8.25 @ 36" inseam and 8.5 at 34' inseam.

                                            Essentially it's a 666 with a larger thigh and more taper from knee to hem… but I think that's what you guys are getting at anyways haha

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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