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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

IHAL-J100 - Iron Heart/Alexander Leathers J100

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  • S
    superfuzz
    Joined: 31 Dec 2012

    Whoa! Why?

    last edited by 15 Apr 2015, 23:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • S
      superfuzz
      Joined: 31 Dec 2012

      Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?

      last edited by 15 Apr 2015, 23:20 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • J
        Joule
        Joined: 22 Mar 2012

        A nervous week after giving "Ting Ting" (the Vietnamese tailor) her sewing assignment (through mostly gestures), I picked up the jacket tonight.

        I had removed the entire liner, including the gun pocket, and double layer of leather on both sides of the main zipper and across the collar.  To do this I had to take out a ton of stitching.  This exposed the brown and red mismatched pockets (note: this was one of the sample jackets so don't expect that with your new jacket).

        For the nip/tuck

        • shorten zipper 1" (from 21" to 20")
        • shorten hem 2" (back length went from 29" to 27")
        • the main zipper bottom split went from 3.5" to 2.5" (3.5" would have placed the zipper bottom above my jeans button and only a 19" zipper)
        • new chest pocket bags - suede outer and white cotton drill on the inner side
        • re-sew all the removed stitching, about 25 feet worth I estimate

        I want to thank Giles as he had provided some leather scraps with the jacket that allowed the new pockets to happen.  IMHO the suede pockets with the sewed labels from the liner really give the jacket professional look.  I tried to think what G would have done for an unlined jacket and only hope I came close.

        Post surgery results:

        山形県の英語教師

        last edited by 15 Apr 2015, 23:29 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • S
          superfuzz
          Joined: 31 Dec 2012

          Great results! That look perfect! Now wear the hell out of it so we can see how it ages…

          last edited by 15 Apr 2015, 23:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • G
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

            @Joule:

            (note: this was one of the sample jackets so don't expect that with your new jacket).

            Do expect it 🙂 The pockets are mismatched on purpose.  They carry on the red lining on the left hand pocket aesthetic of the IH-9527 and IH-527J…

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 05:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • G
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

              @superfuzz:

              Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?

              Vintage is the same stuff, just softer.  It's like unvintaged FQHH, but worn for a year.  I feel the J100 deserves more mobile, more body forming hides than the unvintaged stuff….

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 05:29 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • W
                WALTERWHYTE
                Joined: 3 Nov 2014

                @superfuzz:

                Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?

                Is Chromexcel horse now available for the Cafe Racer? Love that leather, if this is now option i might need to pull the trigger on one.

                last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 08:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • G
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                  I think there may be some semantic differences/misunderstandings.  The Horween FQHH that we use is a Chrome tanned.  Some may refer to that as CXL.  I have Alexander jackets made out of Horween brown cxl horse and Horween brown chrome tanned horse, I can't actually tell the difference…..

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                  last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 08:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • F
                    Finn666
                    Joined: 20 Jan 2011

                    @Giles:

                    @superfuzz:

                    Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?

                    Vintage is the same stuff, just softer.  It's like unvintaged FQHH, but worn for a year.  I feel the J100 deserves more mobile, more body forming hides than the unvintaged stuff….

                    are there other "more mobile" hides around that you could use for this kinda jacket? @Giles
                    imo the most leather jackets are to stiff to start with…somehow it just doesn't feel right when wearing!

                    last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 09:14 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • G
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                      There maybe, but what I am currently doing is what I am currently doing….

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 09:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • G
                        Graeme
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined: 30 Mar 2012

                        Man up @Finn666!

                        Actually, goatskin tends to be a lot softer than something like the Horween FQHH. I think that if you went for a really supple hide, like a lambskin, the style wouldn't work.

                        last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 10:02 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • D
                          davito
                          Joined: 27 Oct 2011

                          @Joule respect for that project

                          @Finn666 j100 is a mc and not a kittycat jacket 🙂 🙂 wear it and it molds and shapes nicely like a glove 🙂 no offence against you Sir just my opinion of the leather of the jacket

                          Cheers,
                          David

                          last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 10:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • G
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                            And if you find that goat I sent you too stiff, then I'm going to start calling you @Rafaela

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 10:17 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • D
                              davito
                              Joined: 27 Oct 2011

                              I love the classic J100 and its heritage of 60years +, IH's take looks really great with nice options at a great price. with the goat leather you'll have a good option starting a bit "easier" to break in compared to horse or say steer like back in the days. still it take some years until it shapes and molds fully to your built.
                              It was a leather shirt for the dirt racers during the 50s/60s and the riders customized their jackets with patches and paintings and the shirt evolved being padded for protection a bit later in these years.

                              Cheers,
                              David

                              last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 11:06 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • Black OrchidB
                                Black Orchid
                                Joined: 31 Dec 2014

                                @Giles:

                                And if you find that goat I sent you too stiff, then I'm going to start calling you @Rafaela

                                [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 11:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • madmondayM
                                  madmonday
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined: 13 Oct 2009

                                  @Joule  great job & the pair of balls on you to even attempt this.

                                  fit looks great

                                  head high, middle finger higher

                                  last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 11:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • FinksterF
                                    Finkster
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined: 14 Mar 2013

                                    Goatskin Leather = stiff  😞  … Ähm .. what?

                                    You own a IHxVS Denim J. and surely some 21 / (25) oz.'s  ... Where is the problem with this piece of Leather.  🙂
                                    Horsehide can be a torment (my opinion) - but I never had uncomfortable times with Goat- or Steerhide Jackets (and I have/had a lot of Leather Stuff in the last 20 years) ... A few weeks / months of constant using - and all is well.

                                    Go @Rafa go!    😃

                                    last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 13:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • S
                                      superfuzz
                                      Joined: 31 Dec 2012

                                      Thanks for the info about the horsehide, G!

                                      last edited by 16 Apr 2015, 13:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • BunyipB
                                        Bunyip
                                        Joined: 28 Apr 2013

                                        Hi Giles,
                                        Can you please tell me the turn around for one of these in Essex? It will have to be a custom job as I'm about 48" around the chest.
                                        Cheers.

                                        last edited by 6 May 2015, 23:25 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • G
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                          @Bunyip They're all custom made.  Normally about 3-4 weeks, but I am waiting for a delivery of Essex, so I think that'll add on another 4-5 weeks or so.

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 7 May 2015, 05:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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