IHAL-J100 - Iron Heart/Alexander Leathers J100

[superfuzz]

I thought those were the new Iron Heart cut 444.

[Giles]

guffaw guffaw guffaw

[FurattoHeddo]

That dude has a striking resemblance to Mark Cavendish

[Giles]

NOW LIVE

[Joule]

Open (Iron) Heart Surgery!

I'm not even sure how it started.  One thing led to another and I had pile of scraps on the floor.  I also had an unlined jacket with mismatched pockets and missing about 25 feet of stitching

[Anesthetist]

Wow! Now that took nuts.

[superfuzz]

Whoa! Why?

[superfuzz]

Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?

[Joule]

A nervous week after giving "Ting Ting" (the Vietnamese tailor) her sewing assignment (through mostly gestures), I picked up the jacket tonight.

I had removed the entire liner, including the gun pocket, and double layer of leather on both sides of the main zipper and across the collar.  To do this I had to take out a ton of stitching.  This exposed the brown and red mismatched pockets (note: this was one of the sample jackets so don't expect that with your new jacket).

For the nip/tuck

• shorten zipper 1" (from 21" to 20")
• shorten hem 2" (back length went from 29" to 27")
• the main zipper bottom split went from 3.5" to 2.5" (3.5" would have placed the zipper bottom above my jeans button and only a 19" zipper)
• new chest pocket bags - suede outer and white cotton drill on the inner side
• re-sew all the removed stitching, about 25 feet worth I estimate

I want to thank Giles as he had provided some leather scraps with the jacket that allowed the new pockets to happen.  IMHO the suede pockets with the sewed labels from the liner really give the jacket professional look.  I tried to think what G would have done for an unlined jacket and only hope I came close.

Post surgery results:

[superfuzz]

Great results! That look perfect! Now wear the hell out of it so we can see how it ages…

[Giles]

@Joule:

(note: this was one of the sample jackets so don't expect that with your new jacket).

Do expect it The pockets are mismatched on purpose.  They carry on the red lining on the left hand pocket aesthetic of the IH-9527 and IH-527J…

[Giles]

@superfuzz:

Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?

Vintage is the same stuff, just softer.  It's like unvintaged FQHH, but worn for a year.  I feel the J100 deserves more mobile, more body forming hides than the unvintaged stuff….

[WALTERWHYTE]

@superfuzz:

Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?

Is Chromexcel horse now available for the Cafe Racer? Love that leather, if this is now option i might need to pull the trigger on one.

[Giles]

I think there may be some semantic differences/misunderstandings.  The Horween FQHH that we use is a Chrome tanned.  Some may refer to that as CXL.  I have Alexander jackets made out of Horween brown cxl horse and Horween brown chrome tanned horse, I can't actually tell the difference…..

[Finn666]

@Giles:

@superfuzz:

Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?

Vintage is the same stuff, just softer.  It's like unvintaged FQHH, but worn for a year.  I feel the J100 deserves more mobile, more body forming hides than the unvintaged stuff….

are there other "more mobile" hides around that you could use for this kinda jacket? @Giles
imo the most leather jackets are to stiff to start with…somehow it just doesn't feel right when wearing!

[Giles]

There maybe, but what I am currently doing is what I am currently doing….

[Graeme]

Man up @Finn666!

Actually, goatskin tends to be a lot softer than something like the Horween FQHH. I think that if you went for a really supple hide, like a lambskin, the style wouldn't work.

[davito]

@Joule respect for that project

@Finn666 j100 is a mc and not a kittycat jacket wear it and it molds and shapes nicely like a glove no offence against you Sir just my opinion of the leather of the jacket

[Giles]

And if you find that goat I sent you too stiff, then I'm going to start calling you @Rafaela

[davito]

I love the classic J100 and its heritage of 60years +, IH's take looks really great with nice options at a great price. with the goat leather you'll have a good option starting a bit "easier" to break in compared to horse or say steer like back in the days. still it take some years until it shapes and molds fully to your built.
It was a leather shirt for the dirt racers during the 50s/60s and the riders customized their jackets with patches and paintings and the shirt evolved being padded for protection a bit later in these years.