IHAL-J100 - Iron Heart/Alexander Leathers J100
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A nervous week after giving "Ting Ting" (the Vietnamese tailor) her sewing assignment (through mostly gestures), I picked up the jacket tonight.
I had removed the entire liner, including the gun pocket, and double layer of leather on both sides of the main zipper and across the collar. To do this I had to take out a ton of stitching. This exposed the brown and red mismatched pockets (note: this was one of the sample jackets so don't expect that with your new jacket).
For the nip/tuck
- shorten zipper 1" (from 21" to 20")
- shorten hem 2" (back length went from 29" to 27")
- the main zipper bottom split went from 3.5" to 2.5" (3.5" would have placed the zipper bottom above my jeans button and only a 19" zipper)
- new chest pocket bags - suede outer and white cotton drill on the inner side
- re-sew all the removed stitching, about 25 feet worth I estimate
I want to thank Giles as he had provided some leather scraps with the jacket that allowed the new pockets to happen. IMHO the suede pockets with the sewed labels from the liner really give the jacket professional look. I tried to think what G would have done for an unlined jacket and only hope I came close.
Post surgery results:
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Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?
Vintage is the same stuff, just softer. It's like unvintaged FQHH, but worn for a year. I feel the J100 deserves more mobile, more body forming hides than the unvintaged stuff….
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Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?
Is Chromexcel horse now available for the Cafe Racer? Love that leather, if this is now option i might need to pull the trigger on one.
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I think there may be some semantic differences/misunderstandings. The Horween FQHH that we use is a Chrome tanned. Some may refer to that as CXL. I have Alexander jackets made out of Horween brown cxl horse and Horween brown chrome tanned horse, I can't actually tell the difference…..
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Hey @Giles just curious, what's the difference between the vintage horsehide and the cxl horsehide that the cafe racer comes in?
Vintage is the same stuff, just softer. It's like unvintaged FQHH, but worn for a year. I feel the J100 deserves more mobile, more body forming hides than the unvintaged stuff….
are there other "more mobile" hides around that you could use for this kinda jacket? @Giles
imo the most leather jackets are to stiff to start with…somehow it just doesn't feel right when wearing! -
I love the classic J100 and its heritage of 60years +, IH's take looks really great with nice options at a great price. with the goat leather you'll have a good option starting a bit "easier" to break in compared to horse or say steer like back in the days. still it take some years until it shapes and molds fully to your built.
It was a leather shirt for the dirt racers during the 50s/60s and the riders customized their jackets with patches and paintings and the shirt evolved being padded for protection a bit later in these years. -
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@Joule great job & the pair of balls on you to even attempt this.
fit looks great
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Goatskin Leather = stiff
… Ähm .. what?You own a IHxVS Denim J. and surely some 21 / (25) oz.'s ... Where is the problem with this piece of Leather.
Horsehide can be a torment (my opinion) - but I never had uncomfortable times with Goat- or Steerhide Jackets (and I have/had a lot of Leather Stuff in the last 20 years) ... A few weeks / months of constant using - and all is well.Go @Rafa go!
