Giles and Alex hit Japan - May 2026
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He was one of the waiters..... There was a staff of def 5, maybe 6, for a max number of 8 concurrent diners.
When we arrived there was an old boy with his girl friend, but they left pretty quickly, then there was just the 3 of us for the rest of the evening.....
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Everything we ate was next level. Virtually impossible for a Gaijan to get in to (that is becoming increasingly common in Tokyo), but we were taken by a good friend who has been going there for year and has the chefs private phone number which secures a seat at the table.....
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@Giles That's crazy to me that foreigners wouldn't typically be welcome there. I lived in Japan for over 6 years and never felt like my ethnicity/nationality would've stopped me getting into a business or activity. Quite the opposite, really. I got to join in with a lot mikoshi-carrying shenanigans and felt pretty much welcome wherever I went. I was certainly treated as something of a novelty where I lived, but seemingly not an unwelcome one.
As someone who's been visiting Japan for a long time, I'm curious as to whether you feel like the vibe has shifted recently. Do you feel like xenophobia is on the rise there? Maybe it would be tough to tell with shorter trips, especially if you already have a local to vouch for you, or at least give your presence an added layer of "acceptability." Still, you could maybe pick up on a shift in the vibe, if there is one.
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Things have changed radically for (in my opinion) the worse. I really disliked Tokyo this time and will actively avoid it in the future. There are a lot of foreign tourists who are simply showing no respect to the Japanese culture and way of life, it's a cheap place to go because of the weakness of the Yen.
Many places that used to welcome or, at least put up with foreigners do not allow them in now. Some places have 2 part pricing; locals and Gaijans.
Alex being able to speak Japanese helped a lot
I love Japan, and I love the people, but I will not be spending any more time than I absolutely have to in Tokyo or Kyoto
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011
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Tokyo is massive. It's basically the equivalent of 10+ Manhattans over an area also ~40X larger. If you don't like "Tokyo" hop on a train that isnt a tourist hot spot. There are plenty of amazing places and neighborhoods with their own distinct and unique vibe that are still Tokyo but absolutely nothing like Ueno, Ginza, Akihabara, Shibuya, Shinjuku, Harajuku, etc. Just hop on a train and get off at one of the 700 more train stations it has than Manhattan...
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@Giles I had a similar experience back in February in the very inner city districts like Shimokitazawa and Koenji. Like a lot of central spots in major cities across the world, you can feel the rapid gentrification unfolding (and the dissolution of alternative, community driven spaces) but yes the currency weakness is fueling cheap, box-ticking holidays that stay within a well-trodden path. But @pechelman makes a good point. Step aside the box (ideally with some Japanese up your sleeve) and you will be rewarded. I had a great time in Hachioji and will definitely base myself there in future for Tokyo time but I see the big cities as largely transit hubs to access regional areas and wilderness. Fukuoka and Nagoya were maybe exceptions to this in terms of scale and balance of tourism/gaijin friendliness, It's interesting to hear your views of how it has shifted given how long you've been travelling in Japan on an off, though. It must have been nice to have that contrast in Kojima
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@Giles said in Giles and Alex hit Japan - May 2026:
He looks suspiciously like the guy that sold me my first 634’s in Kojima. I forgot his name.
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@phoenixinflight said in Giles and Alex hit Japan - May 2026:
But @pechelman makes a good point
He absolutely does. I was not trying to imply I have gone off Japan, which I absolutely love. I will just give Tokyo a wider berth. There is so much more of Japan that I want to see which is off the tourist track....
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@Giles said in Giles and Alex hit Japan - May 2026:
There is so much more of Japan that I want to see which is off the tourist track.
100% this
Everytime we've done this it feels like we have Japan to ourselves. It's wonderful.
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@Giles said in Giles and Alex hit Japan - May 2026:
Things have changed radically for (in my opinion) the worse. I really disliked Tokyo this time and will actively avoid it in the future. There are a lot of foreign tourists who are simply showing no respect to the Japanese culture and way of life, it's a cheap place to go because of the weakness of the Yen.
Many places that used to welcome or, at least put up with foreigners do not allow them in now. Some places have 2 part pricing; locals and Gaijans.
Alex being able to speak Japanese helped a lot
I love Japan, and I love the people, but I will not be spending any more time than I absolutely have to in Tokyo or Kyoto
We heard about the Gaijin issue but had absolutely no problems when we've been to Tokyo a couple of weeks ago. There are some areas you have to avoid. Same with Kyoto. Most of the tourists follow (luckily) the same paths just don't go there. In the countryside it was even the opposite almost everyone was very nice and welcoming. My son speaks fluent Japanese that of course helped a lot.
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This was generally my experience last time I went too, some of the 'hot spots' like Asakusa in Tokyo or the Kiyomisu-dera in Kyoto were just intolerable, and that was a couple of years ago now. But then you'd walk 15~20 mins away to a different shrine/temple/garden ect and they'd be nobody there at all...
I'm in the guts of planning another trip out and looking at heading well out into Tohoku (Aomori, Miyagi and Yamagata). I'd rather face the language barrier and get away from the big cities.
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@Ross said in Giles and Alex hit Japan - May 2026:
This was generally my experience last time I went too, some of the 'hot spots' like Asakusa in Tokyo or the Kiyomisu-dera in Kyoto were just intolerable, and that was a couple of years ago now. But then you'd walk 15~20 mins away to a different shrine/temple/garden ect and they'd be nobody there at all...
I'm in the guts of planning another trip out and looking at heading well out into Tohoku (Aomori, Miyagi and Yamagata). I'd rather face the language barrier and get away from the big cities.
Sounds like a great plan! We love to just stroll around going just where we can see not too many tourists. Kyoto is also great cycling around. During our recent trip we've been to Takayama to see the old part, our car was at the car park for just 10 min. Groups of tourist, loud in their gestures, voices, behaviour, entering coffeeshops, small shops, small restaurants in large groups... you can see and feel you much the Japanese dislike it. Entering a coffee shop, a restaurant, be kind, make a little bow, ask if you are allowed to come in, they don't want their places to be crowded, especially full of loud tourists. Sometimes they as ask you to wait outside, when they see you are kind, quiet, know how to behave you won't have too many problems. Their country their rules...
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@Chap Precisely! Having some manners and being a little more considerate of how other people's culture works doesn't cost anything. how people can go abroad anywhere in the world and treat peoples homes and livelihoods like a theme park is beyond me ... But i'm probably straying into 'Random Rants' with that
