Self Edge x Iron Heart SEXIH25 Release Party - Los Angeles

[kiya]

@jordanscollected said in Self Edge x Iron Heart SEXIH25 Release Party - Los Angeles:

@kiya are you using the original process of overdyeing or the new method discussed that uses less water/is better for the environment?

The new method, from what I understand Iron Heart has ceased to overdye garments in the older method.

[Alex]

@jordanscollected you can tell from the pics @kiya has posted. New, direct dyed, overdyed does not oxidise the hardware

@kiya said in Self Edge x Iron Heart SEXIH25 Release Party - Los Angeles:

The new method, from what I understand Iron Heart has ceased to overdye garments in the older method.

This is correct on all denim 17oz and up, at the very least as the heavy ounce factory has stopped using sulphur dye. The lightweight jeans are made in a factory still using sulphur ODing, but this will be phased out soon too.

[Inorganic]

Holy shit!!! This could be a rad excuse to visit my old stomping grounds. Congrats @kiya + IH on the collaboration and thereby continuing the evolution. Will any SEPDX heads from the shop be down in LA too?

[marco23d]

i will be there. can't wait to party

[Oaktavia]

@Alex do we know yet how the new OD will fade over time? Have you noticed any differences off the bat of new vs. old?

[Alex]

@Oaktavia it won't fade as much, as its direct dyed (like UHFs)

[Oaktavia]

@Alex I see yes, the terminology direct dyed caught my eye. Thanks man.

[Mizmazzle]

@Alex apologies if this has been clarified elsewhere....what's the difference between direct dyed (less fading)?

[Alex]

@Mizmazzle as in what are the details of the two processes? Direct overdying and sulphur overdying?

[Mizmazzle]

@Alex If its not too much trouble? I'm curious why direct dyeing fades less...

[Alex]

@Mizmazzle yeah, its funny you ask as @SamD and I were talking about him doing a feature on overdying for the website soon. He will give you a brief summary here too.

I edited my post above too for clarity - we expect these direct dyed OD garments to still fade, but not as much as sulphur dyed ones.

[bluemantra]

Are these available in person only or will be able to be purchased via the website?

[kiya]

@Inorganic said in Self Edge x Iron Heart SEXIH25 Release Party - Los Angeles:

Holy shit!!! This could be a rad excuse to visit my old stomping grounds. Congrats @kiya + IH on the collaboration and thereby continuing the evolution. Will any SEPDX heads from the shop be down in LA too?

Yes, actually both Jonathan and Khafre from SEPDX will be there!

[kiya]

@bluemantra said in Self Edge x Iron Heart SEXIH25 Release Party - Los Angeles:

Are these available in person only or will be able to be purchased via the website?

These will be available at all 5 US Self Edge locations and online on the same day.

[SamD]

@Mizmazzle As @alex mentioned, we’re hoping to expand our buying guides and blog posts as we continue to develop the new site — and a deep dive into our overdyeing processes is already on the list!

To summarise for now, the switch to a direct dye wasn’t made to intentionally alter the appearance of the denim or how it fades, but rather as an eco-conscious move to reduce our use of more hazardous sulphur dyes. As far as we’re aware, the actual garment dyeing process is very similar, meaning it still removes all potential shrinkage.

Unfortunately, we haven’t been using the new technique long enough to see conclusive fade results, but Haraki-san has advised that the direct dye will be a little more colourfast. Here’s a comparison, with the 21oz direct overdyed denim at the top and the 14oz sulphur-dyed at the bottom:

As you can see, the direct dye will definitely still fade (as it’s already showing variations in tone), but the main difference is how it affects the hardware. The sulphur dye oxidises and tarnishes the rivets and tack button, whereas with the direct dye, the metal remains shiny and new. Hope that's helpful!

[Inorganic]

@kiya PDX REPRESENT!!!

[Mizmazzle]

@SamD very interesting. So both are the original indigo garment that are then dipped into a vat of dye....but that type of dye is the difference? Old being sulphur and new being a newer non-environment damaging type of dye?

I'm sure i'm waaaaay over simplifying it here haha

[kiya]

@Mizmazzle said in Self Edge x Iron Heart SEXIH25 Release Party - Los Angeles:

@SamD very interesting. So both are the original indigo garment that are then dipped into a vat of dye....but that type of dye is the difference? Old being sulphur and new being a newer non-environment damaging type of dye?

That is correct!
Personally I prefer the way the new overdye process looks when the garment is new, it's got a more solid and even black throughout and it doesn't make the hardware look artificially aged..

[SamD]

@Mizmazzle Exactly!

[Oaktavia]

@SamD that is helpful Sam, thanks for helping feed the denim nerds knowledge.