Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

[popvulture]

He is the keeper of the vault

[SKT]

@popvulture I think my 33 days are behind me

[Mizmazzle]

@Giles no doubt yall are going above and beyond in the fit details department. I’m just looking to master the subtleties of my own personal preferences based on the measurements at hand and how best to understand how they translate to the cut patterns.

[popvulture]

@SKT I hear ya. I’ve found recently that they might have absconded with my 34 days as well.

[Matt]

I can still do 33… as long as I get two inches of stretch.

[Mister_Brue]

This post is deleted!

[Hamza Yunus]

hey everyone, @Giles @Alex @Kasi @labrat @T4920
I have a question for iron-birds. What type of indigo is used for IH jeans or jackets, Indian indigo, or indigo grown in Tokushima, Japan?
Which type of indigo stands out more in the final product? What would the price difference be for the same pair of jeans if made individually with Indian indigo versus Tokushima-grown Japanese indigo?
Furthermore, I’d like to know if "natural indigo" is simply a marketing term, similar to "faux leather" or "faux shearling." How chemically pure is natural indigo? Does it still contain impurities like indigo-rubins or others? Also, what are the distinctions between natural, organic, and other types of indigo used in the Aizome dyeing process?

[Giles]

Some of these questions are industry type questions that I don't really know the answers to. And the ones specific to Iron heart, I don't know the answer to either, and if I asked Haraki, he'd say, what does it matter? His basic premise is, does what I choose to use do the job I need it to do, if yes then sort of end-of.

[Hamza Yunus]

Got it, @Giles!
My next question was going to be about the origin of the cotton-like how Momotaro uses Zimbabwean cotton—but I suppose I’ll keep those kinds of questions to myself now.

[Giles]

Actually my answer to your first question was ill considered, I have updated it.

This is a more IH specific question, so I know the answer.

We don't use Zimbabwean cotton because Haraki says that it gives the denim a green caste that he dislikes.

So we use US.

[Hamza Yunus]

@Giles thanks for brushing up on your answer.
US cotton mostly comes from Texas .. so Texan cotton, I guess

[Giles]

I guess.....

[Hamza Yunus]

@Giles Yes, indigo is initially green in its reduced (unoxidized) state and turns blue upon oxidation. That could be related to the type of cotton and the indigo used in the dyeing process. The Indigofera plant is green. how amazingly chemical processes turn green to blue hues.

[Hamza Yunus]

@Giles you are right .. it's like asking the BOSS slub number for slub-denim .. anyway, Thanks for the golden words

[Giles]

I get too many of the "what the fuck have you been smoking looks?" as it is.....

[Hamza Yunus]

Hahahha .. the legend himself can say anything and still get away with it .. Welcome to the club !!

[Hamza Yunus]

@Giles, have you ever considered enhancing the visual appeal of the jeans by adding the best pictures showcasing the patina, fades, whiskers, and wrinkles corresponding to each pair? This could highlight the denim's character and craftsmanship.
just a thought!
or a separate image gallery for fades for each pair of jeans...

[goosehd]

@Hamza-Yunus See here: https://www.ironheart.co.uk/content/hall-of-fades

[Hamza Yunus]

@goosehd thanks a lot

[seawolf]

@Giles Do you happen to remember around what year IH stopped using Zimbabwean cotton? Wondering if I have some green caste denim in my closet. I suspect my first pair of 634S might be a little green but now it just feels like confirmation bias.