IH-526L - 19oz Left-Hand Twill Selvedge Denim Type III - Indigo

[pechelman]

@pechelman said in IH-526L - 19oz Left-Hand Twill Selvedge Denim Type III - Indigo:

I ... hung it with each sleeve bent by fastening the sleeve button/hole to the placket on each side. We'll see if that helps but figured it wouldn't hurt.

My morning realization is that doing this sort of resulted in forming the cuff slightly closed on the LH sleeve and slightly open on the RH sleeve. There's also some twist where the LH side has the opening more pointed down and the RH side opening more pointed up (when arms are on a desk typing). I like how it sits closed/down on the LH side but it's slightly annoying on the RH side. May locally soak the end of the RH sleeve cuff opening and button to dry. Maybe the twist is just due to the LH twill? In the future, I'll likely still do this but be more cognizant to keep the sleeve openings aligned/closed during drying.

[Setanta]

Hi @pechelman the sleeve situation may not be the result of your process, as my right sleeve opening also has an outward / upward twist...

[pechelman]

Thanks, @Setanta. I was wondering that but also wanted to caution folks just in case. On my example it looks like there might be a crease on the RH side as a result of it hanging to dry. But it's hard to know for sure what's what.

[Mizmazzle]

I've read on the forum twisted sleeves and pant legs can be fairly common. Sort of the result of the way the denim is woven and the way the pants or jacket is constructed can sometimes lead to a bit of twist in how the sleeves hang.

[goosehd]

@Giles said in A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim:

This is going out in the next newsletter, I therefore had to make it briefer than I would have liked.  I will add more, when I have a mo…..

A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim
What is a plain weave?
On a loom, the warps run the length of the fabric and the weft (or “filling yarn” or just “filler”) run across the width of the fabric at 90° to the warps.  On a plain weave fabric, each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one and then under the next one, and so on.  The next weft thread goes under the warp thread that its neighbour went over and vice versa  A plain weave fabric, also known as a 1/1 weave, looks the same on both sides.  Examples of a plain weave are chambray and canvas (duck).

Plain Weave or 1/1 Weave

What is a twill?
Just like a plain weave, a twill fabric consists of warps and wefts.  However, in a twill weave, the weft passes under one or more warps and then over two or more warps.  The next weft will “step” or offset one warp, this creates the characteristic diagonal line (known as a “wale”) that identifies a twill fabric.  Twill weave is often designated as a fraction such as 2/1, where the weft passes over two warps and then under one (two up, one down).  Twills have a front and a back side and look different on the face and the back.  Because a twill fabric has fewer interlacings than a plain weave it allows the yarns to move more freely, which is one of the reasons that denim, which is a twill, shapes to the body well.  Finally, because a twill has an uneven surface, stains are less noticeable than on a plain weave fabric, which is good for workwear such as jeans.

A 2/1 Twill Weave

What is right hand twill?
Right hand twill or “Z” twist is the most common weave found in denim jeans.  In a right hand twill the diagonal twill line or wale goes from upper right to the lower left on the face of the fabric.  Because the direction of the weave loosens up fibres in the warp yarn you typically get a rougher, darker face to the twill and little weft of filling yarn showing through on the face of the twill.  Thus, all other things being equal, a right hand twill denim will appear darker.

What is left hand twill?
In a left hand twill or “S” twist, the wale goes from top left to bottom right on the face of the fabric.  In a left hand twill, the warp gets tightened during the weaving process, thus the result is typically a smoother face to the fabric.  Also as more of the weft (or filling yarn) is seen on the face of the fabric, the denim will often appear to be of a lighter hue than an equivalent right hand twill.

Right Hand Twill                                                                                              Left Hand Twill
(Photo, courtesy of The Tuck Shop, Singapore)

[goosehd]

@LandoCal126-0 said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

Why do my jeans have a leg twist?

"Many vintage jeans suffer from leg-twist. This is simply a natural adjustment of the fabric, which tends to follow the direction of the weave. Stefano Aldighieri, Director of Fabric & Finishing at LS&Co. explains it thus: “Levi’s denim were mostly right hand twills; the twill line rises to the right. During the weaving process you basically ‘force’ the fabric to be straight, perpendicular to the selvage, but at the same time you give it this direction in the construction. You lay and cut the fabric; in the early days LS&Co. patterns were cut straight along the selvage. When you wash the garments, the fabric will try to follow the direction of the weave and will pull in that direction… hence the twisted legs, the result of the movement of fabric. Because Lee started to use left hand weave denims, their legs would twist the other way.” Leg twist was eliminated in the 1970s by skewing (which contorts denim to its after-wash shape)- and later revived with Levi’s Red and Engineered jeans." - Via oki-ni

[Giles]

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/topic/2029/leg-twist-and-skew-in-denim

[Tobi]

I can confirm some arm-twisting going on at the RH side...

[Setanta]

[Mizmazzle]

@Setanta brohem!!! That right there is exactly how a type 3 should fit!!

[Setanta]

@Mizmazzle said in IH-526L - 19oz Left-Hand Twill Selvedge Denim Type III - Indigo:

@Setanta brohem!!! That right there is exactly how a type 3 should fit!!

Thank you kindly! I wasn't sure at first... but thanks to Josh at IH for sorting me out correctly! Next time I will have to include my dog in the pic, which looks a lot like yours!

[pechelman]

for anyone who missed out, there may or may not be a freshly returned Large from me on the website right now :).

Would rather someone here snag it if possible.

[Mizmazzle]

@Setanta oh yeah?? Is your dog a long haired German shepherd too??

[Graham]

Shrink test on the latest batch of 526L's

[pechelman]

Thanks for doing that @Graham !

Gives me some good confidence that most or all of the shrink in my jacket is probably gone after its soak.

[Setanta]

@Mizmazzle yeh mon almost two years old

and just to keep this Lefty-related..

[Mizmazzle]

@Setanta couple of beauties!! Best dogs ever!! And by all accounts, best jacket ever!!!

[T4920]

@Graham good to know!

Just a thought though, I feel like a shrink test using a regular spin cycle is more likely to yield results more in line with what the average consumer will experience when washing this jacket.

I consider myself seriously into this stuff, but still groan at the idea of washing a jacket with no spin and waiting 2ish days for it to fully drip dry...

[goosehd]

@T4920 Spinning clothes in the washing machine can lead to some very serious streaks and marbling on denim...

Top two things when washing are to pre soak and pull the denim out before the spin cycle if you can't turn it off.

[Alex]

@T4920 I understand your point, but I would be groaning way more if I ruined my jacket by washing it too aggressively. We use some logic when determining how to shrink-test things, and that is how we would recommend washing it to a customer. In this case, I would not be recommending spinning the jacket. It's one of the crunchiest denim we make, in my opinion, which makes it one of the more prone to damage. I also don't think that we should start ruining clothes in the name of science by trying to maximise shrinkage with higher temps or faster spins.