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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    IH-526L - 19oz Left-Hand Twill Selvedge Denim Type III - Indigo

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    • PJSP
      PJS
      Raw and Unwashed
      @pechelman
      Joined:

      @pechelman Thanks, I wear sport watches, dive and chronographs. I’d probably have to unbutton and cuff.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
      • Luijim78L
        Luijim78
        啓蒙家
        @PJS
        Joined:

        @PJS no I don't think they are particularly tight, I live in Italy and for years we haven't had a winter or so, so usually I just wear a t-shirt under my jacket, on rare occasions I have put on an 18oz CPO shirt and I have had no problems (leaving the cuffs naturally open).IMG_7293.jpeg

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • OaktaviaO
          Oaktavia
          見習いボス
          @Luijim78
          Joined:

          @Luijim78 it definitely will buddy. Just wear it a lot.

          IG: electricindigowizard

          "Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93

          WTB: IHJ-32 - XL/XXL

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • KasiK
            Kasi
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            Yep wear it a lot will be forgiving in the end

            The world's insane
            While you drink champagne
            And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • pechelmanP
              pechelman
              啓蒙家
              @pechelman
              Joined:

              @pechelman said in IH-526L - 19oz Left-Hand Twill Selvedge Denim Type III - Indigo:

              I ... hung it with each sleeve bent by fastening the sleeve button/hole to the placket on each side. We'll see if that helps but figured it wouldn't hurt.

              My morning realization is that doing this sort of resulted in forming the cuff slightly closed on the LH sleeve and slightly open on the RH sleeve. There's also some twist where the LH side has the opening more pointed down and the RH side opening more pointed up (when arms are on a desk typing). I like how it sits closed/down on the LH side but it's slightly annoying on the RH side. May locally soak the end of the RH sleeve cuff opening and button to dry. Maybe the twist is just due to the LH twill? In the future, I'll likely still do this but be more cognizant to keep the sleeve openings aligned/closed during drying.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • S
                Setanta
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                Hi @pechelman the sleeve situation may not be the result of your process, as my right sleeve opening also has an outward / upward twist...

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • pechelmanP
                  pechelman
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  Thanks, @Setanta. I was wondering that but also wanted to caution folks just in case. On my example it looks like there might be a crease on the RH side as a result of it hanging to dry. But it's hard to know for sure what's what.

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • MizmazzleM
                    Mizmazzle
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    I've read on the forum twisted sleeves and pant legs can be fairly common. Sort of the result of the way the denim is woven and the way the pants or jacket is constructed can sometimes lead to a bit of twist in how the sleeves hang.

                    In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • goosehdG
                      goosehd
                      Mod Squad
                      Joined:

                      @Giles said in A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim:

                      This is going out in the next newsletter, I therefore had to make it briefer than I would have liked.  I will add more, when I have a mo…..

                      A Nerd’s Guide to Right Hand and Left Hand Twill Denim
                      What is a plain weave?
                      On a loom, the warps run the length of the fabric and the weft (or “filling yarn” or just “filler”) run across the width of the fabric at 90° to the warps.  On a plain weave fabric, each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one and then under the next one, and so on.  The next weft thread goes under the warp thread that its neighbour went over and vice versa  A plain weave fabric, also known as a 1/1 weave, looks the same on both sides.  Examples of a plain weave are chambray and canvas (duck).


                      Plain Weave or 1/1 Weave

                      What is a twill?
                      Just like a plain weave, a twill fabric consists of warps and wefts.  However, in a twill weave, the weft passes under one or more warps and then over two or more warps.  The next weft will “step” or offset one warp, this creates the characteristic diagonal line (known as a “wale”) that identifies a twill fabric.  Twill weave is often designated as a fraction such as 2/1, where the weft passes over two warps and then under one (two up, one down).  Twills have a front and a back side and look different on the face and the back.  Because a twill fabric has fewer interlacings than a plain weave it allows the yarns to move more freely, which is one of the reasons that denim, which is a twill, shapes to the body well.  Finally, because a twill has an uneven surface, stains are less noticeable than on a plain weave fabric, which is good for workwear such as jeans.


                      A 2/1 Twill Weave

                      What is right hand twill?
                      Right hand twill or “Z” twist is the most common weave found in denim jeans.  In a right hand twill the diagonal twill line or wale goes from upper right to the lower left on the face of the fabric.  Because the direction of the weave loosens up fibres in the warp yarn you typically get a rougher, darker face to the twill and little weft of filling yarn showing through on the face of the twill.  Thus, all other things being equal, a right hand twill denim will appear darker.

                      What is left hand twill?
                      In a left hand twill or “S” twist, the wale goes from top left to bottom right on the face of the fabric.  In a left hand twill, the warp gets tightened during the weaving process, thus the result is typically a smoother face to the fabric.  Also as more of the weft (or filling yarn) is seen on the face of the fabric, the denim will often appear to be of a lighter hue than an equivalent right hand twill.


                      Right Hand Twill                                                                                              Left Hand Twill
                      (Photo, courtesy of The Tuck Shop, Singapore)

                      "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • goosehdG
                        goosehd
                        Mod Squad
                        Joined:

                        @LandoCal126-0 said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

                        Why do my jeans have a leg twist?

                        "Many vintage jeans suffer from leg-twist. This is simply a natural adjustment of the fabric, which tends to follow the direction of the weave. Stefano Aldighieri, Director of Fabric & Finishing at LS&Co. explains it thus: “Levi’s® denim were mostly right hand twills; the twill line rises to the right. During the weaving process you basically ‘force’ the fabric to be straight, perpendicular to the selvage, but at the same time you give it this direction in the construction. You lay and cut the fabric; in the early days LS&Co. patterns were cut straight along the selvage. When you wash the garments, the fabric will try to follow the direction of the weave and will pull in that direction… hence the twisted legs, the result of the movement of fabric. Because Lee started to use left hand weave denims, their legs would twist the other way.” Leg twist was eliminated in the 1970s by skewing (which contorts denim to its after-wash shape)- and later revived with Levi’s® Red and Engineered jeans." - Via oki-ni

                        "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/topic/2029/leg-twist-and-skew-in-denim

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                          • TobiT
                            Tobi
                            Haraki san Prodigy
                            Joined:

                            I can confirm some arm-twisting going on at the RH side... 😉

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                            • S
                              Setanta
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              63b02492-8ef0-42aa-bdd5-60b30344de69.jpg

                              last edited by MizmazzleM 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 5
                              • MizmazzleM
                                Mizmazzle
                                見習いボス
                                @Setanta
                                Joined:

                                @Setanta brohem!!! That right there is exactly how a type 3 should fit!!

                                In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                last edited by S 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • S
                                  Setanta
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  @Mizmazzle
                                  Joined:

                                  @Mizmazzle said in IH-526L - 19oz Left-Hand Twill Selvedge Denim Type III - Indigo:

                                  @Setanta brohem!!! That right there is exactly how a type 3 should fit!!

                                  Thank you kindly! I wasn't sure at first... but thanks to Josh at IH for sorting me out correctly! Next time I will have to include my dog in the pic, which looks a lot like yours!

                                  last edited by MizmazzleM 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • pechelmanP
                                    pechelman
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    for anyone who missed out, there may or may not be a freshly returned Large from me on the website right now :).

                                    Would rather someone here snag it if possible.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                    • MizmazzleM
                                      Mizmazzle
                                      見習いボス
                                      @Setanta
                                      Joined:

                                      @Setanta oh yeah?? Is your dog a long haired German shepherd too??

                                      In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                      last edited by S 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                      • pechelmanP
                                        pechelman
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined:

                                        Thanks for doing that @Graham !

                                        Gives me some good confidence that most or all of the shrink in my jacket is probably gone after its soak.

                                        last edited by pechelman 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                        • S
                                          Setanta
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          @Mizmazzle
                                          Joined:

                                          @Mizmazzle yeh mon almost two years old
                                          36c9db23-929a-4ed2-a51f-c3a0b2cd4061-1.jpg
                                          and just to keep this Lefty-related..ac3c20b5-4194-49c3-860f-a5dff3f37e69.jpg

                                          last edited by Setanta MizmazzleM 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                          • MizmazzleM
                                            Mizmazzle
                                            見習いボス
                                            @Setanta
                                            Joined:

                                            @Setanta couple of beauties!! Best dogs ever!! And by all accounts, best jacket ever!!!

                                            In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
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