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Iron Heart Denim Glossary - Beta version

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  • N
    neph93
    見習いボス
    Joined: 18 Aug 2014

    Hi everyone.

    For the last few months I've been helping the crew in Gosport with a denim glossary for the Iron Heart International website. We want it to be of use to everyone who is interested in our niche corner of the clothing world, and as such it contains a broad range of denim related terms. At the same time we want it to be specific to the brand, so there is a great deal of IH specific information included. We also have plans to illustrate it and cross-link it with the website.

    It is at the point where there are enough entries to publish it, but it is by no means finished. It is very much a "beta-version". As such we would appreciate forum user's input, through you guys commenting, suggesting entries we need to include, or improvements we can make. Please do take a look at the beta-version here:

    https://www.ironheart.co.uk/content/denim-glossary

    All comments and suggestions for entries should be posted on this thread and will be greatly appreciated. The crew and I will make updates regularly and hopefully we can make this a truly comprehensive, useful resource for everyone.

    Cheers,

    Reuben (or neph93, if you like  😉 )

    “Some of those that work forces
    Are the same that burn crosses”

    • Virginia Woolf
    last edited by 7 Sept 2020, 18:49 9 Jul 2020, 18:46 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • D
      DrPat
      Iron Heart Deity
      Joined: 9 Oct 2009

      Impressive.  I'm sure that list took many hours of effort.

      last edited by 9 Jul 2020, 19:11 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • D
        DrPat
        Iron Heart Deity
        Joined: 9 Oct 2009

        The format of the definition of Left Hand Twill needs to be fixed.  Looks like a copy-paste error in which one of the two alternatives was updated.

        last edited by 9 Jul 2020, 19:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • J
          Jett129
          見習いボス
          Joined: 17 Aug 2011

          That is fantastic. A term that I’ve occasionally heard,that I’m not really sure of,or if it in any way pertains to IH,is Deadstock. I get the impression that it’s something that I should think is cool,but I’m not sure why.

          last edited by 10 Jul 2020, 02:13 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • N
            neph93
            見習いボス
            Joined: 18 Aug 2014

            @DrPat:

            The format of the definition of Left Hand Twill needs to be fixed.  Looks like a copy-paste error in which one of the two alternatives was updated.

            Noted, thank you!

            “Some of those that work forces
            Are the same that burn crosses”

            • Virginia Woolf
            last edited by 10 Jul 2020, 07:05 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • N
              neph93
              見習いボス
              Joined: 18 Aug 2014

              @Jett129:

              That is fantastic. A term that I’ve occasionally heard,that I’m not really sure of,or if it in any way pertains to IH,is Deadstock. I get the impression that it’s something that I should think is cool,but I’m not sure why.

              Thanks! Deadstock was originally covered under an entry for «Vintage Denim» but that seems to have disappeared in an edit. We’ll consider how to fix that.

              (Between you and me, deadstock is fabric or finished articles that are no longer made, but have been stored. As a theoretical example, if Haraki-san went into his store house and found a roll of UHR that had been sat there for 10 years it would be considered deadstock. Any jeans made from that roll could also be called deadstock. Obviously, rare and limited items, especially with the provenance of age, have a certain amount of «cool» attached to them).

              “Some of those that work forces
              Are the same that burn crosses”

              • Virginia Woolf
              last edited by 10 Jul 2020, 07:10 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • M
                manufc10
                Iron Heart Deity
                Joined: 14 Mar 2015

                Just a minor suggestion but IMO "boyfriend" should be "boyfriend cut"?

                last edited by 10 Jul 2020, 16:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • K
                  Kasi
                  見習いボス
                  Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                  Nice information to know

                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  The world's insane
                  While you drink champagne
                  And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                  last edited by 12 Jul 2020, 22:27 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • L
                    louisbosco
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined: 21 Feb 2013

                    "IWHWIH" - Giles speak for 'haven't got a fucking clue'. when i know more, you will too.  😃 😃 😛 😛

                    jokes aside, that's quite a fantastic list there.. @neph93

                    "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                    • Harvey Specter
                    last edited by 13 Jul 2020, 10:13 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
                      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                      @louisbosco:

                      "IWHWIH" - Giles speak for 'haven't got a fucking clue'. when i know more, you will too.  😃 😃 😛 😛

                      jokes aside, that's quite a fantastic list there.. @neph93

                      [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] that needs to go in…

                      “Some of those that work forces
                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                      • Virginia Woolf
                      last edited by 13 Jul 2020, 10:47 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • L
                        louisbosco
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined: 21 Feb 2013

                        yeah was the first thing i looked for but it wasn't there..  😃 😃

                        "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                        • Harvey Specter
                        last edited by 13 Jul 2020, 16:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • M
                          manufc10
                          Iron Heart Deity
                          Joined: 14 Mar 2015

                          An excerpt from the Chino definition;

                          "The etymology of the term chino is disputed. Some sources identify the root as the American Spanish language word chino, which translated, literally means toasted."

                          Spanish is not my native language but I'm fairly familiar with it and as far as I know Chino means Chinese, not toasted.  Anybody who's fluent in Spanish here can correct me if I'm wrong obviously…but I'm about 99% certain Chino does not mean toasted.  Tostado (tostada, feminine) is the translation for toasted.

                          last edited by 13 Jul 2020, 17:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • N
                            neph93
                            見習いボス
                            Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                            @manufc10:

                            Spanish is not my native language but I'm fairly familiar with it and as far as I know Chino means Chinese, not toasted.

                            Can’t remember the source for that, but I will check it out. Thank you.

                            “Some of those that work forces
                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                            • Virginia Woolf
                            last edited by 13 Jul 2020, 17:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • N
                              neph93
                              見習いボス
                              Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                              Found it… it isn’t toasted in the sense of «tostada», and it is an archaic/colloquial term.

                              https://books.google.no/books?id=KPlVDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA239&lpg=PA239&dq=chino+toasted&source=bl&ots=KXE_0lvCUS&sig=ACfU3U1O13KMCiJpehDPYtAV570MFzuBhg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjk65e_4srqAhVuposKHdpuBTQQ6AEwDXoECAIQAQ#v=onepage&q=chino toasted&f=false

                              “Some of those that work forces
                              Are the same that burn crosses”

                              • Virginia Woolf
                              last edited by 13 Jul 2020, 17:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • M
                                manufc10
                                Iron Heart Deity
                                Joined: 14 Mar 2015

                                Interesting.  That's news to me.

                                last edited by 13 Jul 2020, 17:50 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • J
                                  jordanscollected
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined: 13 Nov 2018

                                  1.Atari Fade- This jacket has been overdyed black with a fugitive pigment dye which is an unstable and un-permanent dye that fades to later show the indigo denim underneath. Essentially this is a denim that begins black and fades to indigo in high friction areas, or what the Japanese call the "atari" fade. (that is a copy/paste from self edge on the IH OD type III)

                                  2. Hidden Placket- I figured this could use a proper definition and be included.

                                  3. Cuffing- Single, Double, Tokyo Turnup, etc.

                                  4. Over Engineered - gotta be something here

                                  5. Release Date- means absolutely nothing

                                  world tours:
                                  888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                  Mad Red x2
                                  Wabidashery

                                  last edited by 14 Jul 2020, 17:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • N
                                    neph93
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                    Good man. This is what we need. Brainstorming and as many suggestions as possible so the glossary can grow rich and fat.

                                    “Some of those that work forces
                                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                                    • Virginia Woolf
                                    last edited by 14 Jul 2020, 17:31 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • E
                                      Eisenherz
                                      Iron Heart Deity
                                      Joined: 8 Mar 2016

                                      Ventile also japanese ventile
                                      is a registered trademark used to brand a special high-quality woven cotton fabric first developed by scientists at the Shirley Institute in Manchester, England. Originally created to overcome a shortage of flax used for fire hoses and water buckets, its properties were also found to be ideal for pilots' immersion suits.

                                      Extra-long-staple (ELS) cotton fibres are used to form a low-twist yarn, which is then woven into a tight high-density textile to create a 100% cotton fabric, capable of providing an effective barrier against inclement weather. In wet weather the softly spun yarns - within the tight weave - dynamically expand to form an effective barrier against the elements. (Wiki)

                                      It is too long but interesting

                                      last edited by 14 Jul 2020, 18:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • E
                                        Eisenherz
                                        Iron Heart Deity
                                        Joined: 8 Mar 2016

                                        Wax
                                        Of paraffine origin is used to make cotton stuff more resistable against elements as wind and water also wax makes cotton clothing live longer…

                                        last edited by 14 Jul 2020, 18:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • E
                                          Eisenherz
                                          Iron Heart Deity
                                          Joined: 8 Mar 2016

                                          Blanked Lining lining out of woolen blanket
                                          Red bondage lining red cotton lining to improve wind resistance

                                          The 21 oz effect: makes you thinking if you wearing "normal" jeans you would wear stuff out of newspaper or so

                                          last edited by 14 Jul 2020, 18:21 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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