Ship John
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The sleeves will definitely shorten up with stacking.
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@Stashanddash1 I'll chime in since I just went through this. Mind the rambling
I bought the Kuroki denim Wills jacket last year in a size medium. It fit great but the sleeves were really long. I ended up cuffing them back, which looked pretty good on this jacket so I didn't mind. After a wash, however, the sleeves shortened enough that I didn't have to cuff anymore. They were still a little longer than I'd prefer, but they didn't look silly uncuffed.
So when the waxed Wills opened up for orders last week, I was really nervous about the sizing, for some of the reasons that you mentioned: this fabric is thicker, the sleeves on the Kuroki were too long, etc.
My initial instinct was to size up. This is definitely a jacket that I want to be able to wear over a flannel or sweater, since I already have waxed Townes shirts to wear over a T-shirt.
For comparison, my perfect P2P measurement for an Iron Heart jacket, like a 21oz 9526PJ, is about 22-22.5". At this measurement, I can wear it over a T-shirt without the jacket appearing too balloony or over a sweater or UHF without being too tight.
So, because I think you should start with the P2P but sleeve length was also a concern, I was looking at these key measurements: P2P, shoulder, and sleeve.
I'll add here that you have to keep in mind how SJ measures the sleeves compared to IH. SJ measures straight across while IH measures from shoulder seam to center of the back under the collar, then back to the other shoulder seam. I didn't fully grasp the width of the shoulder of the Kuroki and that's why the sleeve length surprised me as a 25" sleeve in IH stuff is usually perfect.
According to SJ's site, the Kuroki denim in medium had these measurements:
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P2P: 22"
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Shoulder: 18.75"
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Sleeve: 25"
And the waxed Wills in medium had these measurements:
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P2P: 22"
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Shoulder: 18.75"
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Sleeve: 24.75"
As you can see, the waxed Wills had a sleeve that was 0.25" shorter than the Kuroki in the same size, which is great because the Kuroki's sleeves were a bit long. Still, I was concerned about the thickness of the material so I wrote SJ to see what they would suggest.
Between the time that I wrote SJ and they responded, I took a closer look at the measurements for a waxed Wills in a large (one size up):
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P2P: 23"
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Shoulder: 19.25"
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Sleeve: 25.25"
I realized that while the additional inch in the P2P would give me a little more room for layering, the shoulder would be 0.5" broader and the sleeves would be 0.25" longer compared to the medium Kuroki jacket, whose pre-wash sleeves were too long. And I don't plan on washing the waxed Wills
So when Ellen from SJ replied, and suggested that I stick with the same size on the waxed Wills, on account of how well the Kuroki jacket fit after a wash and how well my IH-9526PJ with similar measurements fits, I counted it as affirmation of my decision
I hope that helps some!
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Thank you all very much for the incredibly helpful advice and feedback! All of the information provided are things for me to take into account. The Wills Jacket in XS literally has all the perfect measurements except for the potential variance of the sleeve length stacking with wear, and perhaps to also consider, the thickness of fabric, so I might contemplate on the long version, which would add a little more length on the sleeves. I have a week to decide and let them know if I would like to change up my order a bit. Hope that I can get the sizing right, since I know it can be difficult to get an order in for the jacket.
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From my experience the waxed sleeves shorten about an inch after wear, same as Brock. Other than that, I'm quite impressed by how everything I've ordered matches the size chart almost exactly. As I've said before, the combination of Iron Heart and Ship John is about as rugged and durable as it gets. A match made in heaven.
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Gotta give a shout out to Ship John after some excellent customer service. I ordered two of their masks and a hat from them last week. Three masks showed up. I sent an email saying I’d be happy to send back or pay for the third mask, and to let them know about the hat. They said to keep the mask as a spare, and sent the hat.
Very nice of them! My wife and I are both first responders, hence the note. -
That's awesome @neversummer ! I have a few different masks but my chambray mask from Mike fits my fat head the best. Stay safe out there.
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Does anybody have a pair of Guthrie work jeans in indigo denim ?
I‘d like to see some fade pics and experience with shrinking etc.
Thank you -
Does anybody have a pair of Guthrie work jeans in indigo denim ?
I‘d like to see some fade pics and experience with shrinking etc.
Thank youMy friend has a pair that he's been doing yardwork and remodeling his house in. I'll ask him for you.
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Cool
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Agreed! [mention]floho.hh [/mention]
Also, my favorite waxed canvas jacket!
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Congrats @Paul9221 what number were you? I ordered a new waxed jacket in a size up and I have a feeling it's almost ready.
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Nice, mine is 200318 so I’m sure it’ll be any day now. Please post a photo of you in it when it comes!
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Nice, mine is 200318 so I’m sure it’ll be any day now. Please post a photo of you in it when it comes!
I'm super nervous about it fitting correctly. I'll be devastated if it doesn't. I've been wanting one of these for over 18 months? And I couldn't believe that I actually got one when they opened up the books for that one month before the lock-down. Everything looks good, sizing-wise, on paper so hopefully it works out!
Let us know when you get your email, Palmer!
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I certainly will. I got a size too small a few years ago so I’m happy to be getting the right size finally.
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Ok, it happened!!
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