Random questions to which you seek an answer
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Question…when an IH item goes into production, does that include the creation of the fabric as well? For example, sometimes someone will ask when a restock will be, and it’s said it just went to production so could be months until ready. I’m curious what the steps of “production” are?
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It means that we have sent in an order and Japan have OK'd it. Sometimes the fabric will not be woven because they do not know how much to weave until we place an order. The factories we use get quiet (er) and busy at different times, we try to place orders for stuff for factories that we know are quiet, but it is an imperfect world, so that does not always work and a factory gets super backed up all of a sudden and we have to wait for a very long time.
Over the last few years, we have suffered massive delays in ordering indigo 21oz selvedge garments. We simply could not weave enough of the denim. We had 4 dedicated looms running all the time just for this denim, Haraki has managed to convince the mill to increase that to 6 (all their looms are busy all the time, so it meant "stealing" those looms from someone else's denim production). So now we should have relieved the problems caused by the lack of denim, but that just means the bottleneck is now in the factories which sew up the 21oz garments, and it will take time to sort that out. You don't just turn a "make more" switch, it requires massive investment in new (old and hard-to-find sewing machines), staff and infrastructure.
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Great question @Mizmazzle and a very interesting reply @Giles I think it's pretty badass that Haraki is such a heavyweight in the industry (no pun intended) he was able to get those extra looms on the 21oz.
As far as production and quality go, Giles, or anyone, I'd love your take on something: I encountered a video essay or article somewhere this year holding the position that, essentially, in the coming years (15-20 was the purposed timeframe), barring some remedy, Japanese denim production will be in dire trouble. The argument was that not enough of the younger generation is taking up the career of sewing or operating and repairing shuttle looms.
The culminating hypothesis put forward is that either Japan will have to import workers for factories which is problematic in regards to constantly training temporary foreign workers on finicky machines; or that ultimately, the up-and-coming denim makers in other parts of Asia will eventually overshadow Japan as the source of 'top-quality' denim. Does this position hold any water or is it more of an interesting thought experiment?
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Firstly, the easy answer. Yes, H is held in great esteem. I love being with him when "lesser denim world mortals" are introduced to him and see how obsequious they are
Japanese denim is already in trouble and Covid accelerated the shit (because the foreign workers were kicked out of Japan and not let back in for the best part of 2 years - and guess what, when the Japanese wanted them back, they'd found other things to do).
You are 100% correct, fewer younger Japanese people are entering the industry. But the article is wrong in saying that the use of temporary foreign workers is a future thing. It's been happening for years. One of our workshops has rows of 2 bedroom apartments in which their Burmese workers live, with communal kitchen gardens and kitchens. But all of our worships use foreign workers and have done for as long as I can remember.
I'd be interested in who authored the article, if it was a Japanese person, then take it with a dose of salt, because as a generalisation, the Japanese cups are always half empty, which makes it so much more impressive when they succeed in the face of utter catastrophe - I use to believe the doom-laden prophecies, now I politely nod my head, say soothing words of sympathy and basically ignore what I am being told. But then when I'm told that despite the awful predictions, they have managed to pull through, I am full of the most fulsome praise for their brilliance in the face of certain failure. It's a game, but it has to be done.
There are of course many challenges, and I don't mean to diminutise them, but I don't think the industry will die. It will change massively, but I think Iron Heart will be OK. Iron Heart has a very different position than any other Japanese denim brand, we have a massive non-Japanese market, we have a few westerners involved who understand more about the western market than other brands and have the ability to think outside the box (something that the Japanese culture does not promote), we have an amazingly highly regarded leader, and we have a product that people want to buy.
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Considering the enamoring of western motorcycle culture and what seems to be specifically American styling (I could be wrong), has H ever done any runs with cone or vidalia - or any other USA mill I’m not familiar with?
I have two pair of Left Field NYC that I loved until they got too slim in the leg but the cone mills denim was some of my favorite to break in.
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This thread is full of fascinating questions (and answers) today!
I'll add to them with a fleeting though that popped into my mind during my morning swim the other day.
If Iron Heart saw an unprecedented surge in demand, caused by a high-profile celebrity/influencer rocking the brand on a regular basis, for example... Would any measures be taken to ensure that members of established customer base were still able to purchase from you, without everything being snapped up by a hypothetical wave of bots and/or resellers?
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Yes. I really dislike the celebrity/influencer gig. My answer to questions like...
"Hi, I represent Mr fucking big deal actor, he'd really like to wear some of your clothing in his upcoming film, how do we get hold of some?"
Answer
"Go to the fucking website and buy what you want like any regular person"
Sub text, because Mr fucking big deal actor can probably afford our stuff a load more than our regular customers.... -
I love this response.
It’s neat to see celebs wearing stuff you also own if following influencers is your thing. I personally don’t give a crap who someone is and I feel influencers are the number 1 problem with personal happiness in this day and age. Let’s be honest - most of them are probably looking for free stuff bc they “have a following”
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I absolutely love it when I see well-known/respected public figures wearing Iron Heart, especially if they made the choice to buy and wear it themselves. Clapton bought a couple of items from us a few years ago, Paula entered into meaningful correspondence with the man himself about his purchase. I love him all the more for that.....
Mind you, I did invite him to one of our Irn Heart parties and the git did not come.....
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@T4920 I don't think that @Giles actually answered your question (though that is definitely the policy on influencers/celebrities wanting discounts).
As it stands we do not prioritise sales to long standing customers. Equally, we do really want to grow our overall customer base, and the best way to do this is to sell to new customers.
Celebrities have been wearing Iron Heart for years, it has been featured in multiple movies/TV shows to date and as yet we have not seen a spike in resellers, so I don't think its a valid concern at this stage, but is an interesting thought for down the line (perhaps)
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@Alex said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
@T4920 I don't think that @Giles actually answered your question
Yeah, sorry. I ranted about one of my pet peeves and forgot what the question was.
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@Giles said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
@Alex said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
@T4920 I don't think that @Giles actually answered your question
Yeah, sorry. I ranted...
Unlike you...
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Following up to that influencer/purchaser - I noticed that one forum member was able to “pre-order” an upcoming arrival at their local IH retailer.
Seems a bit stinky to me that some retailers can do that while IH themselves does not allow for that?
Guess there is no way to enforce no pre sales?
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Great conversation everyone—best rant ever Giles. Love your position on celebrity and influencers.
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@iammortalcombat I don't think it is fair of us to stipulate how our retailers want to work with their customer base. We have our position, they all have their own too.
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@Alex understood and that’s completely logical.
I actually enjoy the thrill of “will I get it” a tad here and there. I am also lucky that I’m in the larger sizing in the shirts so I think I have less competition but I am envious when things come out that don’t make it to the 3-4x sizing
