Ultra Heavy Raw (UHR), AKA 21/23oz Denim
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I've always had a pretty good experience with 666s and engineers, but 634s are indeed ideal. I've said it many times, but I wish there were an 888 with a wider leg opening — I love that higher waist but the hem's tough with my engineers.
TBH I'm not really a hater when it comes to skinnier fits — they're just not for me. The painted-on ones are very comical, though. Overall though I just feel like that trend has been around waaaaay too long. I mean… since like... 2006? F'n hell.
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Dude,I’m pushing 70 and wear 555s almost every day. Wear them with Engineers,Western boots and sneakers. If I haven’t grown up by now it’s probably toooo late. Full disclosure actually wearing an old pair of 634 Blacks,that were taken in a little,so half way between 555 and 634.
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I can wear em all, but I guess it just comes down to comfort for me. Skinnier jeans squeeze my calves more than I like — they're a bit on the bigger side due to me being a runner and I also just like the way wider leg jeans drape over boots. I'm tall, so rise is also an issue for me. Of course to each their own, as Goose said it's all down to pref and body type. And fwiw I don't mind the look of any of the IH skinnier cuts, definitely nothing silly like I see from the Hypebeast crowd.
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Waist on the UHR should shrink an inch with soak/wash, but it will stretch out to pre-soak size again with wear. For waist measurement, you want a pair that looks good on the chart. Thigh, back rise, and inseam will shrink and won’t come back though, so be mindful of this too.
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That's a bit confusing. I can't decide if I should go with the provided measurements of the 666 in a Tag Size 31 or Tag Size 30. What did the others do? Did you guys size up?
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If your desired waist size is 80cm then the tag size 30 would appear to provide that.
It will shrink 1" from the value on the chart and then stretch back out after wear back to this original dimension.
As sabergirl said, also keep an eye on the other dimensions that will also shrink from the raw measurement chart (by about ~4%) that will not stretch back out as readily such as thigh and rises. -
I got my normal size, in this case a 33 — it's almost always either 33 or 34 for me. I aim for about 34.5 in the waist.
They felt good when I put them on right out of the bag. After two hot soaks with agitation, they definitely shrank a bit, but came back out to being comfortable pretty quickly, I'd say within a half hour. Since then I haven't worn them a whole lot, as it's pretty damn hot here at the moment, but I think I've gotten in about 5 wears and they haven't stretched out past original chart measurements.
I think the general rule of thumb for these, and for probably most (but of course not all, can't definitively say that) raw jeans is if they fit well before the soak, then they're good. They'll be tight after a soak or wash, but they should stretch back out with some wears.
ALSO should add, yes as pechelman and sabergirl said, definitely pay attention to the areas that won't stretch back out.
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Waist on the UHR should shrink an inch with soak/wash, but it will stretch out to pre-soak size again with wear. For waist measurement, you want a pair that looks good on the chart. Thigh, back rise, and inseam will shrink and won’t come back though, so be mindful of this too.
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I can't speak specifically about the UHRs, but my experience with unsanforized Samurais, PBJs, Flat Heads, etc., is that the back rise will stretch back to the original unwashed length (front rises tend not to, though). Also, thighs can pretty easily gain back about half of the size that they lose after that first soak.
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Every cut is there for good reason, I guess.
888 being my favorite at the moment. High rise and a nice taper, without being stupidly aggressive.Speaking of which: When will the 888 UHR arrive?
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That’s great news, thanks Adam!
Looking forward to finally spend my photo competition prize
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I have a question in general related to the shrinkage and the correct sizing. I'm usually around 80 cm on the waist and Tag size 30 fits me perfectly fine in the 666 XHS where the waist comes in around 78-79 cm new and after stretch it kind of settles around 80 to 81 cm. The UHR in 666 cut, the measurement says for tag size 31 the waist is 82.x cm and given the shrinkage of 1 inch on the waist, that would mean the waist would be around 80 cm roughly. Correct? So for my needs, I should be looking at Tag size 31 for the 666. Am I right?
You can expect the UHR to end up around where it started after shrinkage and stretch. So a W31 starting at 82cm will end up about there. I’ve always gone normal size on UHR.
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I have a question in general related to the shrinkage and the correct sizing. I'm usually around 80 cm on the waist and Tag size 30 fits me perfectly fine in the 666 XHS where the waist comes in around 78-79 cm new and after stretch it kind of settles around 80 to 81 cm. The UHR in 666 cut, the measurement says for tag size 31 the waist is 82.x cm and given the shrinkage of 1 inch on the waist, that would mean the waist would be around 80 cm roughly. Correct? So for my needs, I should be looking at Tag size 31 for the 666. Am I right?
You can expect the UHR to end up around where it started after shrinkage and stretch. So a W31 starting at 82cm will end up about there. I’ve always gone normal size on UHR.
Miss you @neph93 Your answer clears all that for me. So on the waist, I think I will stay with Tag size 30, but I don't know about the other measurements if they shrink will they come back? Those tension areas will definitely I suppose!
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I don't know about the other measurements if they shrink will they come back? Those tension areas will definitely I suppose!
Yeah… nowhere really gets the same amount of abuse as the waistband. That always stretches the most. But the thigh will stretch out again, possibly to the initial dimensions. As @sabergirl said, the rises, hem and inseam will not stretch.
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One minor clarification on the care instructions that say to drip dry after soak and before a machine wash. Is the drip dry necessary or can they go straight into the machine? Asking because there's slightly different guidance provided earlier in this thread quoted from Haraki via Giles saying to cold soak overnight before machine washing with no mention of an intermediate drip dry.
Thanks for bearing with me.
