IH-526J-22 - 22oz Selvedge Denim Type III Jacket - Indigo
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@jimmer_5 most IH denim seams are felled. This means the edges of the pieces of denim are folded into each other then sewn. It leaves no raw edges and is very strong. Denim as sturdy as the 22oz is too thick to be felled properly so an extra piece of material is used to “tape” the two pieces together in order to achieve the necessary strength in the bond while still being aesthetically pleasing.
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Ah, thank you Neph - I had forgotten how a flat-felled seam works. Thanks for clarifying this for me.
I initially struggled with the idea of keeping both my PJ and the J-22 because they are somewhat similar jackets, but decided that they were worth it. The pockets on the PJ are so useful, and the J-22 probably looks the best on me of the IH jackets I own. Knowing these extra details about the differences in construction makes me feel even more justified and excited to own and experience both styles.
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Just read up on this jacket thread. Looks amazing, eagerly looking forward to some fade photos in the future.
Random thought: is this denim thicker/bulkier than the 19oz Lefty Trucker? Reason I ask is because on the 19oz description it states that it is the "the toughest type III we make". I am a little confused with oz numbers and all that…
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No, the 19L is def tougher that the 21oz. The tension of the weave is much higher in the 19 Left Hand Twill denim than the 21 Right Hand Twill…
OK got it, that is what I thought. Thank you for clearing that up. Higher tension makes for tougher denim, despite the actual weight.
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So I tried to find a more general thread to post this in, but I couldn't find one. My question is about this item, but it could apply to other jackets generally.
I've read that even the 21oz jeans tend to stretch some with wear - up to an inch in many cases. Have any of you found that a close fitting jacket will stretch over time? I'm torn between sizes on my 526-J22. I recently ordered an XL in this jacket and I haven't actually worn it yet because I can't decide if it's a perfect fit or a bit too small.
I'm curious if the rule that we apply to selvedge jeans can also be applied to jackets - buy it a little small because it will stretch with time and use? Jeans seem to get flexed about more extensively since we move and bend our legs so much, so I'm not sure if jackets will stretch the same way.
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Any denim that’s put under strain will stretch. But a jacket probably won’t have much strain, unless it’s too tight. If your jacket is buttoned and straining across the chest, it will eventually stretch a little, but would you want to look like a sausage stuffed into a small casing?
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Honestly, that's why I'm struggling to decide. It's not straining at the buttons, except possibly the second from the top button - that one causes the material on the chest to pull some. It works over a flannel, even over a UHF, but a sweatshirt is too much.
In the pictures below, you can see an XXL on the left and the XL on the right. The pics don't show it, but the XXL was too long / wide in the arms. The XL is perfect in the arms, but closer fitting than I'm accustomed to in the body.
It's taken me years to get used to wearing clothing that isn't oversized. My Iron Heart shirts and jackets fit closer than most other shirts I've owned, and I like the fitted cut. I'm just trying to decide if this jacket is pushing it a bit too far, and also if I should expect it to stretch some over time, or stay largely the same.
IH-526J-22 - XXL vs XL - closed by jimmacnair, on Flickr
https://www.flickr.com/photos/97880203@N03/51082154827/in/dateposted-public/
20210313_140134 by jimmacnair, on Flickr
IH-526J-22 - XXL vs XL - open by jimmacnair, on Flickr
IH-526J-22 - XXL vs XL - closed by jimmacnair, on Flickr -
Yep, XL is an amazing fit. When the fabric gets more worn in, it sill flex with wear more as well.
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Agree with the emminent and knowledgable @Appfaff and @sabergirl that XL is perfect.
As for stretching, firstly jackets don't get as quite as much movement as has been noted, and secondly on type III's all the constructional stitching and felled seams mean there is less stretch to be had anyway. That being said, in my experience, which is not a little, type III's "relax" more than stretch. The seams give a little, the denim becomes less taught. Call it break in if you like, or call it light stretching, but it will get a little bigger where you need it to.
Either way, I'd say you are on to a winner, more so given that you can wear this easily over just a tee when the weather allows.
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Thanks for the advice everyone. As a relative newbie to IH, I really appreciate the insight.
Neph nailed it - I'm trying to balance being able to layer under it, while still having a close enough fit to wear over a T- shirt on occasion. The XXL was better for layering, but kind of big over just a t-shirt.
As for the potential for shrinkage if the 22oz material - it really doesn't shrink much at all, even in the dryer. I know this from personal experience with the XXL I bought first. If you plan on trying to shrink one of these J-22s, I'd recommend against it. I soaked the sleeves in hot water and threw it in the dryer, and it made almost no measurable difference to the sleeve length. Live and learn. Thankfully, IH jackets hold their value remarkably well, so I think I'll do OK if I choose to sell the XXL.
) then why not? 
