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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Live Reveal - Thursday 12th of June at 1700BST

Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

The Resource Centre
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  • A
    Appfaff
    Raw and Unwashed
    Joined: 11 Oct 2013

    Oh yeah, the 777 is better for sure, but for years the 301 was the slim flagship, especially when it was just 461 and 634s.

    I just love the idea of Haraki showing G a pair of low rise, slim jeans, and he's like "Feck that, I'm not about that life" and then Kiya swoops in and is like "Cali peeps would eat these up.." and they did. And honestly, SE really did push the boundaries on taking the Japanese fabrics and details and packaging them up into slim tapered packages for Westerners. I believe the IHxSE01 was a direct Dior 19cm repro if I remember the story correct.

    Anyways, I'm just a geek for the history and progression of gear…. Carry on!

    last edited by 17 Nov 2020, 21:22 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • N
      neph93
      見習いボス
      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

      @Appfaff:

      Anyways, I'm just a geek for the history and progression of gear…. Carry on!

      No, you carry on… this is great... I also enjoy that weird split in the IH development continuum when Giles and Kiya were the only games in their respective towns. Two very different attitudes to selling the gear are obvious, as well as two different attitudes to developing the brand.

      I've often considered researching and writing a brand history... I reckon I could get a full book out of it, that at least a few people would want to read. I figure I'd need to take three months off work to get it started though travel to the UK, Japan and the US. The financial implications of that are where these daydreams tend to end  😉

      “Some of those that work forces
      Are the same that burn crosses”

      • Virginia Woolf
      last edited by 17 Nov 2020, 21:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • J
        jordanscollected
        啓蒙家
        Joined: 13 Nov 2018

        @neph93 it could be a forum funded book, I'd put money into it for sure. I'd much rather my money going to this as opposed to "do you want to round up for charity?" at every damn checkout I go to in states. Plus, I can't speak for everyone, but I bet you'd have a free bed and free "fed" in many towns across the globe from anyone passionate about your project.

        I'd maybe finish Hot Ingrid's house first.

        world tours:
        888 Fat guy chocolate WT
        Mad Red x2
        Wabidashery

        last edited by 17 Nov 2020, 21:40 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • A
          Appfaff
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined: 11 Oct 2013

          If you need a co-writer, holla at ya boi (Me, if you were wondering lol)

          last edited by 17 Nov 2020, 21:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • N
            neph93
            見習いボス
            Joined: 18 Aug 2014

            @jordanscollected:

            I'd maybe finish Hot Ingrid's house first.

            Critical point, well made. I think relying on some good will would definitely make it possible though…@Appfaff:

            If you need a co-writer, holla at ya boi (Me, if you were wondering lol)

            I reckon you would at the very least be an important source and require interviewing for many hours. Those interviews would require meat and beer.

            “Some of those that work forces
            Are the same that burn crosses”

            • Virginia Woolf
            last edited by 17 Nov 2020, 22:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • A
              Appfaff
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined: 11 Oct 2013

              @neph93:

              I reckon you would at the very least be an important source and require interviewing for many hours. Those interviews would require meat and beer.

              100%

              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

              last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 00:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • J
                Jett129
                見習いボス
                Joined: 17 Aug 2011

                Can I be the photographer?

                last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 00:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • A
                  Appfaff
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined: 11 Oct 2013

                  It would only be fitting Jett!

                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 01:47 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • G
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                    @jordanscollected:

                    @Giles

                    1. What item did you expect to sell like hotcakes and ended up not doing well?

                    2. What item ended up being way more popular than you thought it would?

                    1. The simple answer, is anything that we have to put in the outlet. This is a business, we need to make money, every time we have to discount something, is really an admission of failure.  Another answer is Triple Works, it was amazing stuff, but because of what I can only put down to brand snobbery (end-user customers and retailers) it did not sell, but had it been tagged IH I am sure it would've sold really well. We launched the 14oz denim under the TW name, it sold really poorly, I asked H to rebrand it IH, so we did.  When I asked for retailers orders, it was, at that time, the largest order I had ever taken. And I would guess, it is now our top selling denim weight.

                    2. Shorts, IHC-16 and sometimes a UHF completely catches me off guard.

                    This is one of my mantras:

                    The art of being a successful retailer is not how often you get it right, it is how often you don't get it wrong.

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 05:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • G
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                      @Appfaff:

                      I just love the idea of Haraki showing G a pair of low rise, slim jeans, and he's like "Feck that, I'm not about that life"

                      So what happened is that I was in one of my first meetings with Haraki and Kiya in Tokyo.  Haraki shows us a pair of slim jeans he had developed, but did not want to sell in Japan. Kiya said, "I like those, can SE have exclusivity on them?" Because slim jeans were not part of my heritage and not why I had got into the business, I said: "You bet".  The cut was not perfect and it took a few iterations to get it right (mainly because I did not know at the time, but the Japanese do not include the waistband when measuring rise), it became the 301 cut.  From a IHUK point of view, it was one of the worst decisions I ever made, but from a brand perspective, it proved to be brilliant.

                      As time went by, I began to realise the folly of my ways and that we needed a slim jean in the portfolio, I could not take away the exclusivity I had given Kiya without breaking my word, but I also could not develop a jean that was too similar to the 301, otherwise, it was effectively the same thing.  So I came up with the 666, then we made the 555 initially just for the Indonesian market, and then at the suggestion of a customer, we came up with the 777.  Which I 100% agree, is the best of the lot.

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 06:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • A
                        Appfaff
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined: 11 Oct 2013

                        Love those stories!!

                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                        last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 06:22 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • M
                          motojobobo
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined: 22 Aug 2015

                          Fascinating IH lore!

                          Curious as to how the 633 cut came about. Is it an ‘improved’ 301?

                          The 633 is currently my best fitting cut, but I haven’t yet tried a 777. I feel most comfortable with low/mid rise bottoms.

                          The journey is the objective.

                          last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 12:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • G
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                            The 633 is basically the 634 with more taper from the knee to the cuff….

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 12:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • J
                              jordanscollected
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined: 13 Nov 2018

                              Thanks @Giles and as stated above, these are great background stories. I can imagine that it's hard to know ahead of time how many you will sell of something or what will be popular, especially if it's a less traditional fabric, design, color or cut.

                              It's easy for me to forget that your team has a focus on business and that we aren't all just here sharing pictures of beer, food, bread, and IH outfits from across the globe.

                              world tours:
                              888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                              Mad Red x2
                              Wabidashery

                              last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 14:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • G
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                @jordanscollected:

                                It's easy for me to forget that your team has a focus on business and that we aren't all just here sharing pictures of beer, food, bread, and IH outfits from across the globe.

                                I'm really pleased that you think this way, and I hope that it is a common feeling amongst the members.  Yes, it is a business, yes it does have to be profitable, and yes we have a duty to try and make it as successful as we can for the sake of Haraki, his business, the workshops, and not least of all for our staff.

                                BUT, at the end of the day, I want our customers to enjoy what we make and what we do and if this forum helps do that, then that is another tick in the box.

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 18:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • D
                                  DrPat
                                  Iron Heart Deity
                                  Joined: 9 Oct 2009

                                  Based on those long answers, it seems like Giles has lots of time to kill these days.  Much different than the abbreviations you used to reply with  😉

                                  For some reason, Triple Works came across as Iron Heart Lite.  Maybe you should have made it more expensive than main line IH instead of cheaper.

                                  One of my favorite stories you've told is about when Haraki went to a denim party in the west for the first time and was surprised how many different ways people were wearing Iron Heart.

                                  last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 18:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                    I'm very sensibly not allowed into the office at the moment.  We need to ensure the people who actually do something, are protected, as far as we can, from Covid.

                                    So yes, I have more time on my hands that I used to…..

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 19:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • G
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                      @DrPat:

                                      when Haraki went to a denim party in the west for the first time and was surprised how many different ways people were wearing Iron Heart.

                                      Yep, I think it was a a SELA party, though it could have been SESF. All these dudes came in wearing Iron Heart in all sorts of different ways.  Haraki just sat, stared and took it all in.  The following day, he said to me, "I never imagined my clothes would ever be worn like the way people were wearing them last night, I love it, I will think differently from now on"…

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 19:06 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • A
                                        Appfaff
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined: 11 Oct 2013

                                        Ironically @Giles - those photos from the SELA grand opening was what made me buy my first pair of Iron Hearts.

                                        last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 19:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • G
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                          Ha…... 😉

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 18 Nov 2020, 21:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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