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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    ROY

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    • S
      sabergirl
      見習いボス
      Joined:

      Haha Mike, you got me laughing over here. I never felt excited about the one pair of Roy's I had, and ended up passing them along, too. I think it's truly the denim. Not even the light weight, just the lack of…j'nest ce qois...murdered trying to spell in French, there.

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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      • Filthy2123ozjunkieF
        Filthy2123ozjunkie
        見習いボスー
        Joined:

        @sabergirl:

        j'nest ce qois

        Ex-squeeze-me? Haha

        You don't know what?  😃

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        • JDelageJ
          JDelage
          啓蒙家
          Joined:

          "je ne sais quoi"  😉

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          • Akuma no utaA
            Akuma no uta
            Banned
            Joined:

            Damn. What a bargain!

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            • BloodnThunderB
              BloodnThunder
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              Still trying to figure out if this is a joke.

              IG: Shadesofindig0

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Akuma no utaA
                Akuma no uta
                Banned
                Joined:

                I looked at Roy’s Instagram and apparently he’s giving the pair away to the highest bidder. So it worked opposite.

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                • S
                  sabergirl
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  Ah. I knew it couldn't be for real.

                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Matty123M
                    Matty123
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    @Filthy25ozJunkie:

                    I'm sure I'm likely to come off as a troll or whatever. But truth be told:

                    I wore mine around today at work and they were like drinking decaffeinated coffee when I had an iced caramel macchiato (Iron Heart 21 oz denim) waiting for me. Looks like these will end up work beaters or I'll give them to somebody because they are definitely not for me. The pocket bags are heavier than the denim is. The chambray iron heart uses in the 13 oz CPO is about the same weight. It is shame Roy is so cynical about Japanese denim because it is definitely superior to come mills. It's a shame because his craftsmanship is angelic. It's perfect. But iron heart's is pretty great too. So I guess I have no reason to ever wear another brand of jeans ever again.

                    What is Roy’s cynical view on Japanese denim?

                    Maybe so. Maybe not

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                    • BloodnThunderB
                      BloodnThunder
                      Raw and Unwashed
                      Joined:

                      I don't think Roy is anti-Japanese denim, I just think he appreciates his jeans being made entirely in the US, and he just so happens to have a really good relationship with Cone who I believe is willing to work with him on fabrics.  His most recent shirts were all made out of Japanese fabrics.

                      IG: Shadesofindig0

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                      • JDelageJ
                        JDelage
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        Relevant to this conversation I think:

                        https://www.heddels.com/2017/10/cone-mills-close-white-oak-plant-last-american-selvedge-denim-mill/

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                        • DionD
                          Dion
                          Joined:

                          The end of an era. I guess he might source his denim from Japan from now on.

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                          • Matty123M
                            Matty123
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            That’s a bummer. My first Selvedge denim jeans were made from Cone. Tellason 12.5oz Ankara. I really liked their 14.75 oz. too.

                            Maybe so. Maybe not

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                            • manufc10M
                              manufc10
                              Iron Heart Deity
                              Joined:

                              Cone had its place, for sure.  Sad end.

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                              • S
                                Steffen
                                Joined:

                                I don´t really get why they have to close, the demand and use of their Denims seems as high as never before, Levis, Tellason and Gustin alone must need Thousands of Meters.

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                                • tvenutoT
                                  tvenuto
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  That's what happens when you're a drop in the bucket, and that bucket is but a drop in a massively larger bucket.

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                                  • mikebarhootM
                                    mikebarhoot
                                    Iron Heart Deity
                                    Joined:

                                    Interesting read Telason posted on FB.

                                    Our Thoughts on the Closure of Cone Mills White Oak

                                    When our friend and manager of the Cone Mills office in San Francisco called on the morning of October 18 and asked us if we were sitting down, we knew what he was going to say.  The big surprise came a few months ago when we learned that we were the fourth largest customer at White Oak. We thought: "if this is the case, where are the big brands?"  Of course, we all know where they are – chasing down the lowest cost production around the globe to satisfy the demands of their customers -- who care about quantity over quality, price over provenance.

                                    If White Oak is the size of a football field, the Draper looms that make the selvedge denim take up the space of half of an end zone.  The mill depends on selling a large volume of fabric produced on their modern looms -- the exact type of fabric large brands and retailers use.  As these brands and private label producers moved their production out of the U.S., there was no way they would ship fabric from North Carolina to Bangladesh, China or Vietnam.  Many thanks to Cone Mills for fighting the good fight and keeping White Oak afloat as long as possible.

                                    We visited White Oak in Greensboro a couple of years ago and met the people that, in many cases, had been working at Cone Mills for decades, some right alongside their parents.  We saw the beautiful antique looms humming along, producing some of the most coveted denim in the world.  We saw the spun yarns taking dips in indigo baths.  We witnessed the pride the workers had in being a part of something historic, something important.  The faces of these people and the memories of meeting them are the first thoughts we had when we heard of White Oak's closure.

                                    In the meantime, remember that entities like White Oak are businesses not museums and if you care about them, support them with your wallet.  To that end, we have plenty of our core denim products made from our 12.5, 14.75 and 16.5 oz White Oak selvedge denim in stock, in work and rolls of fabric ready to use at our factory in San Francisco.  Tellason is almost nine years old and during this time we have built up tremendous respect for makers in all categories that pursue quality and timelessness with their products.  The same goes for the next mill that will produce our selvedge denim in 2018 and beyond.

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                                    • BloodnThunderB
                                      BloodnThunder
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      If we just call a spade a spade it's closing because the entity (Platinum Equity) that bought International Textile Group (the owner of Cone) does not see a financial benefit in keeping it open vs. ridding or moving those operations elsewhere.  This is a numbers game and the move was made to increase the IRR for investors in Platinum Equity.  Like Tellason wrote the draper/selvedge looms at Cone made up a fraction of the total production and were not where the money was, it was/is in the modern projectile looms…..  Those same looms can make the same denim for a fraction of the labor cost somewhere else.  They don't even need to sell more if they're slashing costs and sustaining revenue the returns are trending in the right direction.

                                      IG: Shadesofindig0

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                                      • S
                                        Steffen
                                        Joined:

                                        ^ Something like that was my inital thought, a historical Company doenst just stop beeing in Business there has to be a "bigger" Reason, usually Money/Investor bullshit.

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                                        • BloodnThunderB
                                          BloodnThunder
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          Joined:

                                          There is little doubt in my mind that if Cone was it's own standalone entity and not part of a bigger conglomerate the factory would not be closing.

                                          IG: Shadesofindig0

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                                          • gaseousclayG
                                            gaseousclay
                                            Joined:

                                            @BloodnThunder:

                                            If we just call a spade a spade it's closing because the entity (Platinum Equity) that bought International Textile Group (the owner of Cone) does not see a financial benefit in keeping it open vs. ridding or moving those operations elsewhere.  This is a numbers game and the move was made to increase the IRR for investors in Platinum Equity.  Like Tellason wrote the draper/selvedge looms at Cone made up a fraction of the total production and were not where the money was, it was/is in the modern projectile looms…..  Those same looms can make the same denim for a fraction of the labor cost somewhere else.  They don't even need to sell more if they're slashing costs and sustaining revenue the returns are trending in the right direction.

                                            yep. Private equity firms, like Bain Capital for example, are notorious for buying companies that are in financial dire straights only to turn around and strip them down to nothing so that they can make a profit. I doubt ITG is any different.

                                            http://www.rollingstone.com/politics/news/why-private-equity-firms-like-bain-really-are-the-worst-of-capitalism-20120523

                                            WTB:
                                            IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                                            IHSH-19

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