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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

ROY

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  • B
    BloodnThunder
    Raw and Unwashed
    Joined: 20 May 2015

    I don't think Roy is anti-Japanese denim, I just think he appreciates his jeans being made entirely in the US, and he just so happens to have a really good relationship with Cone who I believe is willing to work with him on fabrics.  His most recent shirts were all made out of Japanese fabrics.

    IG: Shadesofindig0

    last edited by 17 Oct 2017, 13:34 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • J
      JDelage
      啓蒙家
      Joined: 13 Jan 2012

      Relevant to this conversation I think:

      https://www.heddels.com/2017/10/cone-mills-close-white-oak-plant-last-american-selvedge-denim-mill/

      last edited by 18 Oct 2017, 21:28 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • D
        Dion
        Joined: 15 Mar 2015

        The end of an era. I guess he might source his denim from Japan from now on.

        last edited by 18 Oct 2017, 21:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • M
          Matty123
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined: 4 Apr 2017

          That’s a bummer. My first Selvedge denim jeans were made from Cone. Tellason 12.5oz Ankara. I really liked their 14.75 oz. too.

          Maybe so. Maybe not

          last edited by 18 Oct 2017, 22:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • M
            manufc10
            Iron Heart Deity
            Joined: 14 Mar 2015

            Cone had its place, for sure.  Sad end.

            last edited by 18 Oct 2017, 23:02 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • S
              Steffen
              Joined: 26 Jul 2017

              I don´t really get why they have to close, the demand and use of their Denims seems as high as never before, Levis, Tellason and Gustin alone must need Thousands of Meters.

              last edited by 19 Oct 2017, 11:28 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • T
                tvenuto
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined: 15 Sept 2016

                That's what happens when you're a drop in the bucket, and that bucket is but a drop in a massively larger bucket.

                last edited by 19 Oct 2017, 15:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • M
                  mikebarhoot
                  Iron Heart Deity
                  Joined: 15 Dec 2015

                  Interesting read Telason posted on FB.

                  Our Thoughts on the Closure of Cone Mills White Oak

                  When our friend and manager of the Cone Mills office in San Francisco called on the morning of October 18 and asked us if we were sitting down, we knew what he was going to say.  The big surprise came a few months ago when we learned that we were the fourth largest customer at White Oak. We thought: "if this is the case, where are the big brands?"  Of course, we all know where they are – chasing down the lowest cost production around the globe to satisfy the demands of their customers -- who care about quantity over quality, price over provenance.

                  If White Oak is the size of a football field, the Draper looms that make the selvedge denim take up the space of half of an end zone.  The mill depends on selling a large volume of fabric produced on their modern looms -- the exact type of fabric large brands and retailers use.  As these brands and private label producers moved their production out of the U.S., there was no way they would ship fabric from North Carolina to Bangladesh, China or Vietnam.  Many thanks to Cone Mills for fighting the good fight and keeping White Oak afloat as long as possible.

                  We visited White Oak in Greensboro a couple of years ago and met the people that, in many cases, had been working at Cone Mills for decades, some right alongside their parents.  We saw the beautiful antique looms humming along, producing some of the most coveted denim in the world.  We saw the spun yarns taking dips in indigo baths.  We witnessed the pride the workers had in being a part of something historic, something important.  The faces of these people and the memories of meeting them are the first thoughts we had when we heard of White Oak's closure.

                  In the meantime, remember that entities like White Oak are businesses not museums and if you care about them, support them with your wallet.  To that end, we have plenty of our core denim products made from our 12.5, 14.75 and 16.5 oz White Oak selvedge denim in stock, in work and rolls of fabric ready to use at our factory in San Francisco.  Tellason is almost nine years old and during this time we have built up tremendous respect for makers in all categories that pursue quality and timelessness with their products.  The same goes for the next mill that will produce our selvedge denim in 2018 and beyond.

                  last edited by 19 Oct 2017, 19:22 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • B
                    BloodnThunder
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined: 20 May 2015

                    If we just call a spade a spade it's closing because the entity (Platinum Equity) that bought International Textile Group (the owner of Cone) does not see a financial benefit in keeping it open vs. ridding or moving those operations elsewhere.  This is a numbers game and the move was made to increase the IRR for investors in Platinum Equity.  Like Tellason wrote the draper/selvedge looms at Cone made up a fraction of the total production and were not where the money was, it was/is in the modern projectile looms…..  Those same looms can make the same denim for a fraction of the labor cost somewhere else.  They don't even need to sell more if they're slashing costs and sustaining revenue the returns are trending in the right direction.

                    IG: Shadesofindig0

                    last edited by 19 Oct 2017, 22:06 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • S
                      Steffen
                      Joined: 26 Jul 2017

                      ^ Something like that was my inital thought, a historical Company doenst just stop beeing in Business there has to be a "bigger" Reason, usually Money/Investor bullshit.

                      last edited by 20 Oct 2017, 08:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • B
                        BloodnThunder
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined: 20 May 2015

                        There is little doubt in my mind that if Cone was it's own standalone entity and not part of a bigger conglomerate the factory would not be closing.

                        IG: Shadesofindig0

                        last edited by 20 Oct 2017, 13:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • G
                          gaseousclay
                          Joined: 4 Nov 2016

                          @BloodnThunder:

                          If we just call a spade a spade it's closing because the entity (Platinum Equity) that bought International Textile Group (the owner of Cone) does not see a financial benefit in keeping it open vs. ridding or moving those operations elsewhere.  This is a numbers game and the move was made to increase the IRR for investors in Platinum Equity.  Like Tellason wrote the draper/selvedge looms at Cone made up a fraction of the total production and were not where the money was, it was/is in the modern projectile looms…..  Those same looms can make the same denim for a fraction of the labor cost somewhere else.  They don't even need to sell more if they're slashing costs and sustaining revenue the returns are trending in the right direction.

                          yep. Private equity firms, like Bain Capital for example, are notorious for buying companies that are in financial dire straights only to turn around and strip them down to nothing so that they can make a profit. I doubt ITG is any different.

                          http://www.rollingstone.com/politics/news/why-private-equity-firms-like-bain-really-are-the-worst-of-capitalism-20120523

                          WTB:
                          IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                          IHSH-19

                          last edited by 20 Oct 2017, 17:01 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • A
                            Anesthetist
                            見習いボス
                            Joined: 14 May 2011

                            Big Shirt & Foreman ducks

                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                            IG: bluehandsslim

                            last edited by 31 Mar 2018, 23:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • A
                              Appfaff
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined: 11 Oct 2013

                              You guys think this is his final goodbye?

                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                              last edited by 12 Apr 2018, 23:06 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • steelworkerS
                                steelworker
                                見習いボス
                                Joined: 16 Apr 2014

                                @Appfaff:

                                You guys think this is his final goodbye?

                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                I believe that's a remake of RS00

                                Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
                                Well, I have others.

                                last edited by 13 Apr 2018, 00:02 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • A
                                  Appfaff
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined: 11 Oct 2013

                                  Gotcha - the whole “going places” stamp kind threw me off

                                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                  last edited by 13 Apr 2018, 00:25 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • steelworkerS
                                    steelworker
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined: 16 Apr 2014

                                    there's a post on his page saying these are a few odds n sods , only a few pair in  limited sizes 31, 33, 35, 36.live around noon Saturday April 14.

                                    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
                                    Well, I have others.

                                    last edited by 13 Apr 2018, 00:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • veloaudioV
                                      veloaudio
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined: 9 Dec 2012

                                      New SE collaboration will be out next week. I'm very curious about the fit. I wear my SF01s all the time. One "nicer" pair goes to work and my original pair still going strong when I do house projects or just bumming around. Might be time for some new Roys if the measurements look good.

                                      last edited by 9 Feb 2019, 21:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • veloaudioV
                                        veloaudio
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined: 9 Dec 2012

                                        Original pair, SF01s

                                        last edited by 2 Sept 2019, 23:18 9 Feb 2019, 22:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • den1mheadD
                                          den1mhead
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          Joined: 6 Oct 2014

                                          ^ WOW those Roy's look awesome [emoji41]

                                          Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

                                          last edited by 10 Feb 2019, 05:49 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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