Sugar Cane
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Are there any (good) denim brands that use non-leather patches?
Levis has those faux leather paper patches and True Religion uses embroidered patches, but I can't think of any others off the top of my head. This is the kind of thing Tillman would know…
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…well...maybe he does.
generally, you can look at all accurate '60s models the Japanese brands (or other) offer. Those have also the paper patches. And I do remember OOE and some oterh brands offered woven labels.
Paper patch brands: Denime, TCB, Devi's, Fullcount...
Woven label: Ande Whall did this too and I think some Warehouse models -
Are there any (good) denim brands that use non-leather patches?
Levis has those faux leather paper patches and True Religion uses embroidered patches, but I can't think of any others off the top of my head. This is the kind of thing Tillman would know…
Stevenson! All their jeans use paper patches:
http://www.selfedge.com/jeans?sort=p.date_added&manufacturer_id=51 -
I knew I could count on you, b_F.
Your knowledge is truly encyclopedic. -
Liking the Stevenson stuff, and it helps that Zip is such a nice dude too.
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Liking the Stevenson stuff, and it helps that Zip is such a nice dude too.
Off topic but some of the coolest looking pockets out there.
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Just picked up this beauty in the indigo.
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Sugar Cane SC40200
'47 cut with AI denim
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Damn, I know the word is overused but those are beautiful.
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Indeed they are!
A shame SugarCane/Toyo doesn't produce these beauties. AI denim with Kakishibu pocket bags and all the other details for under 30,000 Yen (under 300 $)…you can't beat that!
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If you don't mind me asking, did you buy them second hand or just NOS?
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I bought them from Ed (so secondhand) but they were in BNWT condition. I think he never even tried them on
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Wonderful pair!
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@Sugar:
I wear a size 32 in the McQueen chinos: one size up from my usual. The 31 did button up but they were tight and I need a little more room to be able to wear the chinos for work with an oxford shirt tucked in.
Sorry to revive this is old thread but I've got a family member going to Japan and I'm going to try to have them pick me up a pair of the McQueen chinos as they seem to have the perfect combination of button-fly, high rise and slimmish leg that I'm after. Are these measurements accurate do you think? They appear to have a slightly wider leg opening than what McQueen wears in 'The Great Escape'
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@paint house gang I would highly recommend the McQueen chinos. I'm not able to measure my size 32 against Earthmarket's measurements but I'm confident that they are pretty accurate. Certainly so in the waist and thighs.
The leg opening is not super tapered from the knee but the cut runs quite slim all the way down. Sorry I don't have better photos, but here's how the leg opening looks with my Alden. I don't think it's too dissimilar to how McQueen's chinos looked in the Great Escape. If only the same could be said for the rest of me!
*Sorry to everyone for the off-topic post. By the way, my Sugarcane 1947 are the very best fit I own. Love them.
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My little review to the SugarCane SC40301 Okinawa
Fit
From what I read and know, the Okinawa is based on Sugar Cane’s own interpretation of the Levi’s ’47 cut. So you have a high/high-ish rise, a snug waistband from which the hip area “flares” out resulting in a generous top block, room in the thighs (but not too much, see measurements) and a slight taper. The fly is pretty long and when you take a look at the fly alone it looks a bit strange but blends in with the overall aesthetic. The back pockets are mid-sized and well placed so your butt doesn’t look bigger (as it might already be). No problem to but my OGL wallet inside.
The leg opening allows you to wear all kind of boots but also sneakers should work with them.Denim
The Okinawa uses a 14,25oz LHT denim that is woven from 50% cotton and 50% sugarcane fibers. The sugarcane should be from the island Okinawa but who can be really sure about that? Although LHT denim is known to be soft, this denim is quite rigid. It is more rigid than the RHT denim from OOE or the denim used on the WH 1001SXX, for example.
Many people claim the SugarCane denim to be scratchy and itchy due to sugarcane fibers poking out. But I can’t confirm that.
The texture is amazing though. A nice slubby and irregular texture but not very hair. When you stroke over the denim you feel many little bumps and the whole denim has a very rigid and dry feel to it.
After the soak the denim got darker.
What I wasn’t aware of when buying them, the weft has a distinct brownish tint.Details
Like most Sugar Cane models, the Okinawa model is also loaded and loaded with details. Hidden rivets, check. Hidden selvedge in the coin pocket, check. Multi colored threads used all over, check. Interesting fabric used on pocket bags, check. Lined back pockets, check.
As you know, instead of your usual leather patch you will find a snakeskin patch made of python from Okinawa. Little tip from me here: when you use a belt with those jeans it will rub off the red paint very fast (already happened a bit on my patch…
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The belt loops a raised but only a bit. They are huge and can fit an enormous belt if necessary. None of my belts would exhaust those belt loops.
The buttons look very nice and are made of different materials.
They have a very pronounced leg twist, nearly 80° (on the right leg as usual for LHT denims). Not only because of the shrinkage of the denim but also because of the way they were cut. Even in its raw state the outseam of the right leg was twisted. Could be by intention of the designer.I think that’s it for now
